It’s finally happening

[ROSIEonFIRE]

After 12 years my beloved husband finally relented and I am getting a ball! 3 questions: 1, do you think I should get an adult or a baby? 2, how much are they likely to change in regard to color/pattern from subadult to adult? 3, what do you wish you’d known when you bought your first ball python/snake?


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[dakski]

After 12 years my beloved husband finally relented and I am getting a ball! 3 questions: 1, do you think I should get an adult or a baby? 2, how much are they likely to change in regard to color/pattern from subadult to adult? 3, what do you wish you’d known when you bought your first ball python/snake?


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Congrats! How exciting! Do you know what morphs, if any, you are leaning towards?

See below for answers to your questions.

1. I would advise on getting a baby or young adult unless you can find an adult already eating frozen/thawed (F/T) that has a good demeanor (not hard). BP's can be picky eaters (see answer #3) relative to some other snakes and if you want to feed F/T, which I highly recommend, getting them younger and working with the breeder/knowing the snake is taken F/T can be a huge plus, especially for a new owner. Additionally, if you get a younger snake, you can watch him/her grow and get to know each other well. A young snake from a reputable breeder is also less likely to have health issues. Some snakes being re-homed could have been neglected. This is not ideal for a new owner either.

A young adult vs. a baby would mean a little sturdier snake and less prone to owner error. Having said that, if you setup everything before hand and get your tank, thermostats/temps, humidity, etc. dialed in, you really should not have an issue.

2. Color intensity can change in some morphs, but BP's generally do not change much as they age. Patterns do not and color, if it changes, will usually fade. Also, breeders use amazing lighting etc. to enhance the way a BP looks. If you are not seeing the snake in person, looks can be deceiving. Shayna, my albino BP, was slightly brighter and more orange hued when I first got her. However, she has held her color and intensity very well.

On this note, I would advise getting snake that speaks to you in terms of morph/color, pattern, etc. but would be most focused on a reputable breeder, a snake with a good demeanor, and a snake that eats well and has eaten well. If budget is a constraint, I would be more inclined to put that money into a good setup (PVC enclosure either now or money put aside for upgrading later), good thermostats and heating elements, etc. This can add up.

3. What do I wish I knew before getting my first snake/BP?

-Enclosure/husbandry (temp, humidity, etc.) are the most important things.
-Getting it right and safe can be expensive.

-Leave the snake alone when you get it - let him/her settle in. Too many people are more interested in playing with/handling a new snake instead of letting that snake settle in and eat 3 meals before handling (except for brief encounters to move the snake to clean, etc.).
-BP's can live 30+ years when cared for correctly. Take the time ensure a happy and healthy and settled (snake that feels safe) animal first, then enjoy for years and years.

-Snakes are escape experts. Get a proper snake tank. Assume the snake will find a way out if there is one. Do not give them one.

-Too cold is bad, but so is too hot. Too hot can injure or kill your snake. I have heard too many people who did not understand too hot is bad. The too cold thing most people seem to get, but ectothermic/cold blooded means an animal relies on its environment for temperature regulation. It does not mean hot is better.
-Also - they need a temperature gradient. They do not need hot everywhere. Most BP's will use the hot side to digest and spend more time in the middle and cool side their tank. I have hides on the hot and cool sides, and one in the middle. I also have 4X2' tank so I have the room. Hot and cool side hides are a must.

-Understand the needs of your particular snake/species. BP's want decent humidity (50-60% most of the time is good). They also want an 86-89F hot spot, average middle tank temps of 80-84F, and a cool side of about 78F. They want good and snug hides and the same hides on the hot and cool side - they should not have to choose safety over thermoregulation.

-Snakes and BP's particularly, can be shy creatures. BP's hide the majority of the time - and should. That's what they do in the wild for safety and for finding food. BP's are ground snakes and burrow in the wild in tunnels waiting for a rat to come by. They are not social or display snakes. Frankly, my most "display oriented" snake is a Carpet Python who spends a lot of time on his PVC "branches." He is fun to see out and about, but even he is pretty sedentary most of the time. My boas spend time in the open as well. However, they are not exactly exciting. Usually, if in the open, it's because they are hoping for food and sitting still to ambush a prey item.

The point here is that if you expect to interact with you snake when out, that's fine, but if you want a pet to watch all day (like a community fish tank), a BP is not it, nor are most snakes. Further, the lower the stress in the environment, the better. In other words, putting a BP in a busy room could be detrimental for the BP.

-On the interaction, most snakes will tolerate handling for brief periods, but do not want to spend hours hanging out with you. Some of my snakes (Boas in particular) will be a little more tolerant/social and inquisitive when out. Shayna, my BP, goes from very shy, to okay I'll hang, to shy again and put me back in my safe enclosure in about 10-15 minutes.

-Leave your snake alone for 1-2 days after eating. Let them digest.

-BP's have heat pits - warm up F/T prey after defrosting to entice them to eat.

-Snakes bite for two reasons. They are scared or they are hungry. Keep your snake feeling safe and teach them you are not going to harm them (build trust) and all will likely be good. However, I have seen too many people anthropomorphize snakes and if they get bit, instead of putting themselves in the snakes shoes (pardon the expression) and empathize, they take it personally. If I snake bites you, you probably did something wrong, or it hasn't learned that you are safe. Snakes are not mean, hold grudges, etc. They also live in the moment.

-Most BP's are incredibly chill and I would not worry about this. Hence it being the last point. However, as new owner, it is important to understand that smaller and younger snakes, as well as snakes in new environments, can be scared and a bite can happen, even if it is unlikely.

-On that note. There are way worse things. I get hurt more wrestling with my dog than any snake bite I have had. In case you are wondering, I have had four bites in 30+ years of keeping snakes of all kinds. I work with my animals and speak to the breeders etc. and have generally docile snakes. The worst wasn't even my snake!

-Learn to read your snake and understand behavior and body language. This helps with all aspects of keeping a snake. They do not have facial expressions, and rarely make noise, so understanding tongue flicks, body tension and movement, etc. are important to know where your snake is at.


THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS? Knowledge and expectations.

Use this forum. Read up on husbandry, ask questions, etc. WE ARE HERE TO HELP.

I know I wrote a lot here. I do not know your knowledge base or experience with snakes, but I cannot say enough about being realistic and understanding the importance of husbandry. If that's all you take away from this, I did okay.

I imagine others will have more to add.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[ROSIEonFIRE]

Thank you so much for the thoughtful and informative reply! I’ve always been a banana girl but lately I’m starting to appreciate the darker morphs more than I used to so I have many ideas but ultimately I’m not sure. I plan to go to the NE Reptile Expo next weekend and hopefully being able to see a variety of snakes in person will help clarify things for me. All in all I expect to spend about a grand, I’m thinking about 400-500 on animal and shipping and I’m definitely getting a PVC enclosure, probably a zen 4x2. Although I’ve never had a snake before I do have some herp experience and experience with exotics generally so I’m sure I can get a handle on the care requirements and obviously this forum is an amazing resource! Also I’m def on the FT train! No way do I wanna deal with live feeds lol. Looking forward to sharing my new scaleyfamily member with you all soon

[Homebody]

After 12 years my beloved husband finally relented and I am getting a ball! 3 questions: 1, do you think I should get an adult or a baby? 2, how much are they likely to change in regard to color/pattern from subadult to adult? 3, what do you wish you’d known when you bought your first ball python/snake?

1. Get an adult. Adult snakes are hardier. Even baby bps are hardy, but for nervous new keepers, the extra hardiness that adults have results in much greater peace of mind. If you get an adult, you don't need to size up your enclosure. Baby bps often do better in smaller enclosures. With an adult, you can start them off in their forever home. Also, adult bps retain their puppy faces. I understand why people prefer to get kittens and puppies to adult cats and dogs. They are way cuter. Adult bps are bigger, but they keep their cute little faces. See exhibit A:
2. Get an adult BP and you won't need to worry about this, as much.
3. Get your enclosure and set it up right before you get your bp. You've been admirably patient. Don't lose that now that you have the green light. Get a nice enclosure. A 4x2 is a good size for a bp. Get quality heating elements and thermostats. Set it up well in advance and test it to ensure that it maintains proper temperature and humidity. You'll save your bp and yourself a lot of needless stress. if you do. Also, get a male. You don't want to have to deal with partho babies.

[Malum Argenteum]

3, what do you wish you’d known when you bought your first ball python/snake?

-- That some snake species that I like the look of, I don't like keeping
-- That I like normals and locale animals more than morphs, usually
-- That buying from anyone else other than the breeder of the snake is a risk
-- That the price of it doesn't matter nearly so much as the breeder of it.
-- That the first step in choosing a snake is ideally choosing a breeder
-- That choosing a breeder is much more difficult than choosing a snake
-- That the least expensive example of a species/morph is usually the least expensive for a reason
-- That having the complete feeding and shedding history of the snake, in writing, is both worth a lot and very rarely offered
-- That having the best equipment from the start is the least expensive option (specifically, that buying Herpstats first, instead of buying some other brand first and then replacing them, is cheaper)

[Bogertophis]

3, what do you wish you’d known when you bought your first ball python/snake?

-- That some snake species that I like the look of, I don't like keeping
-- That I like normals and locale animals more than morphs, usually
-- That buying from anyone else other than the breeder of the snake is a risk
-- That the price of it doesn't matter nearly so much as the breeder of it.
-- That the first step in choosing a snake is ideally choosing a breeder
-- That choosing a breeder is much more difficult than choosing a snake
-- That the least expensive example of a species/morph is usually the least expensive for a reason
-- That having the complete feeding and shedding history of the snake, in writing, is both worth a lot and very rarely offered
-- That having the best equipment from the start is the least expensive option (specifically, that buying Herpstats first, instead of buying some other brand first and then replacing them, is cheaper)

This ^ ^ ^ times ten. Great list- very well thought out.

[dakski]

3, what do you wish you’d known when you bought your first ball python/snake?

-- That some snake species that I like the look of, I don't like keeping
-- That I like normals and locale animals more than morphs, usually
-- That buying from anyone else other than the breeder of the snake is a risk
-- That the price of it doesn't matter nearly so much as the breeder of it.
-- That the first step in choosing a snake is ideally choosing a breeder
-- That choosing a breeder is much more difficult than choosing a snake
-- That the least expensive example of a species/morph is usually the least expensive for a reason
-- That having the complete feeding and shedding history of the snake, in writing, is both worth a lot and very rarely offered
-- That having the best equipment from the start is the least expensive option (specifically, that buying Herpstats first, instead of buying some other brand first and then replacing them, is cheaper)

Great list! Really well said and clearly thought out!

This can not be said enough:

-- That having the best equipment from the start is the least expensive option (specifically, that buying Herpstats first, instead of buying some other brand first and then replacing them, is cheaper)[/QUOTE]


I'll add. Getting the correct equipment from day one will save money and potentially your snake's health (which will cost you money) or worse, a dead snake.

[Malum Argenteum]

'Well thought out' = 'made lots of mistakes, some multiple times; made a mental note of each'.