Heating & Lighting Questions

[Animallover3541]

There was a similar post made a couple days ago about this topic, but I feel that my question is different enough to warrant its own post.

So, I have ordered a ProProducts RHP and a 48"x20"x20" ABS enclosure from The Reptile Factory. I also plan on purchasing an Arcadia ShadeDweller max UVB light and I recently bought a used VE-200 stat for $60 that has been working wonderfully. My only question though is that I have seen some people suggesting that a halogen or DHP be used along with and RHP to provide a more "direct" heat source for basking. How do you guys feel about this? Should I mount my RHP in the middle then and get a DHP for the hot side?

Also, do you believe that your experiences with VE thermostats is generally positive in comparison to your experiences with Herpstats? Also, what would probe placement for an RHP and a DHP look like?

I'm not sure why I didn't do more research on this before spending so much money but hindsight is 20/20 I guess...

[Homebody]

There was a similar post made a couple days ago about this topic, but I feel that my question is different enough to warrant its own post.

So, I have ordered a ProProducts RHP and a 48"x20"x20" ABS enclosure from The Reptile Factory. I also plan on purchasing an Arcadia ShadeDweller max UVB light and I recently bought a used VE-200 stat for $60 that has been working wonderfully. My only question though is that I have seen some people suggesting that a halogen or DHP be used along with and RHP to provide a more "direct" heat source for basking. How do you guys feel about this? Should I mount my RHP in the middle then and get a DHP for the hot side?

Also, do you believe that your experiences with VE thermostats is generally positive in comparison to your experiences with Herpstats? Also, what would probe placement for an RHP and a DHP look like?

I'm not sure why I didn't do more research on this before spending so much money but hindsight is 20/20 I guess...

Unless your ambient temps are low, the RHP should be all you need. Also, from what I gathered from the Arcadia infomercial I saw on DHPs, they are more beneficial to basking species. So, if this is for your BP, I would say it's even more unnecessary. I would just mount the RHP on the warm side.

[Animallover3541]

Unless your ambient temps are low, the RHP should be all you need. Also, from what I gathered from the Arcadia infomercial I saw on DHPs, they are more beneficial to basking species. So, if this is for your BP, I would say it's even more unnecessary. I would just mount the RHP on the warm side.

Alrighty! I'm going to talk to my vet too and see what they think, but from talking to them so far I'm pretty sure that they would say just the RHP is okay. The only reason I want to add the ShadeDweller is because he occasionally will come out and climb during the day and I have to imagine it would have some benefit for him. Thanks!

[Gio]

Unless your ambient temps are low, the RHP should be all you need. Also, from what I gathered from the Arcadia infomercial I saw on DHPs, they are more beneficial to basking species. So, if this is for your BP, I would say it's even more unnecessary. I would just mount the RHP on the warm side.

I agree with this.

I would also suggest mounting the RHP on one side not in the middle. You will not get a temp gradient if you center mount the unit.

Once the panel heats the cage and the contents it doesn't have to work overly hard to maintain a steady temp.

Bob at Pro-Products recommended that I put my stat probe on the opposite side of the panel. Other people mount the probes near the panel. You can use either method and decide what works best. I like knowing the cooler side is monitored. The temps under the RHP can vary and depending on where the snake is, floor or perches, the warm side can get into the high 90's and below the perches things sit near 88-90.

I'm more concerned about the cool side as the snake will decide how warm it wants to be and has different levels to heat itself. Once it reaches the temp it wants to be at, it is important that it can cool down. I also provide a night drop that offers more climate swing.

[Animallover3541]

I agree with this.

I would also suggest mounting the RHP on one side not in the middle. You will not get a temp gradient if you center mount the unit.

Once the panel heats the cage and the contents it doesn't have to work overly hard to maintain a steady temp.

Bob at Pro-Products recommended that I put my stat probe on the opposite side of the panel. Other people mount the probes near the panel. You can use either method and decide what works best. I like knowing the cooler side is monitored. The temps under the RHP can vary and depending on where the snake is, floor or perches, the warm side can get into the high 90's and below the perches things sit near 88-90.

I'm more concerned about the cool side as the snake will decide how warm it wants to be and has different levels to heat itself. Once it reaches the temp it wants to be at, it is important that it can cool down. I also provide a night drop that offers more climate swing.

Up until I posted this I was planning on putting it on the warm side since I was a planning on using it as a sole heating element. I’m going to double check with my vet today about their opinion and I’ll post that on here, but I have a feeling that they’re going to be okay with just the RHP for heating.

[Malum Argenteum]

I mount my RHP probes about 3 inches under the RHP on a metal mount that I rig up (piece of aluminum stock, edges rounded, and probe zip tied to it, mount screwed to the wall of the enclosure). I prefer the cool side varies with room temp fluctuations, not the hot side, but this will differ with species and enclosure setup/size and so on.

"Also, do you believe that your experiences with VE thermostats is generally positive in comparison to your experiences with Herpstats?"

No.

I have owned four VEs (three 300x2 and one 200)-- I still own and use two, sold one, and tossed one out when the sockets in the back failed mechanically. The VE sockets for the probes are less secure than the Herpstats in general, but I had one where they actually broke. I had one troubleshooting issue that I contacted Reptile Basics for and got info that suggested they don't have a good handle on how the thermostats work and blame user error too easily (it turned out the temp alarm feature is a bit hobbled). They have fewer features, less support and are made overseas. I wouldn't buy another one.

I currently have five Herpstats -- four HS4s and one HS2. I've a had a couple old probes start to fail (they didn't quit, they just sent an error alert) and they were replaced (company will replace all old plastic probes with metal ones for free; the new style metal ones have been 100% reliable). I had one screen issue that Spyder corrected immediately (they had a bad batch of screens, and sent a replacement out when I declined their offer to send the unit in for them to install it). They're assembled in the US and so can be repaired both by the company or in certain cases by the user, and the folks on the phone/email know how they're built.

[Homebody]

Also, what would probe placement for an RHP and a DHP look like?

I secured the probe for my RHP 2-3" below it on a plastic flower stem.

[Animallover3541]

I mount my RHP probes about 3 inches under the RHP on a metal mount that I rig up (piece of aluminum stock, edges rounded, and probe zip tied to it, mount screwed to the wall of the enclosure). I prefer the cool side varies with room temp fluctuations, not the hot side, but this will differ with species and enclosure setup/size and so on.

"Also, do you believe that your experiences with VE thermostats is generally positive in comparison to your experiences with Herpstats?"

No.

I have owned four VEs (three 300x2 and one 200)-- I still own and use two, sold one, and tossed one out when the sockets in the back failed mechanically. The VE sockets for the probes are less secure than the Herpstats in general, but I had one where they actually broke. I had one troubleshooting issue that I contacted Reptile Basics for and got info that suggested they don't have a good handle on how the thermostats work and blame user error too easily (it turned out the temp alarm feature is a bit hobbled). They have fewer features, less support and are made overseas. I wouldn't buy another one.

I currently have five Herpstats -- four HS4s and one HS2. I've a had a couple old probes start to fail (they didn't quit, they just sent an error alert) and they were replaced (company will replace all old plastic probes with metal ones for free; the new style metal ones have been 100% reliable). I had one screen issue that Spyder corrected immediately (they had a bad batch of screens, and sent a replacement out when I declined their offer to send the unit in for them to install it). They're assembled in the US and so can be repaired both by the company or in certain cases by the user, and the folks on the phone/email know how they're built.

Should I get rid of my VE stat then and get a herp stat or is just the VE stat good until I need to get another one when my boyfriend and I both have ABS enclosures for our bps and we’re moved in together? I just need it for a good year and a half but if I need to replace it sooner then I will. I just want the best for my pets.

[Malum Argenteum]

Should I get rid of my VE stat then and get a herp stat or is just the VE stat good

I continue to use the couple VEs I have left, and I don't expect any insurmountable problems with them. They're not a great choice compared to Herpstat (which was your question, and odd because I don't always answer just the question that was asked ), but if Herpstats didn't exist they'd be fine.

If I were you I'd use the VE until some point in time when an upgrade of some sort is needed, like when you need more channels you could buy a Herpstat 4 (a better model than the HS 2 -- simpler interface, and a couple more features) and sell the VE.

[Animallover3541]

I continue to use the couple VEs I have left, and I don't expect any insurmountable problems with them. They're not a great choice compared to Herpstat (which was your question, and odd because I don't always answer just the question that was asked ), but if Herpstats didn't exist they'd be fine.

If I were you I'd use the VE until some point in time when an upgrade of some sort is needed, like when you need more channels you could buy a Herpstat 4 (a better model than the HS 2 -- simpler interface, and a couple more features) and sell the VE.

Thank you! I will start setting money aside to get one eventually.