More frequent bites?

[PecanPied]

Evening! My BP just turned 2 at the beginning of the month, and he’s also struck at me twice in the last two weeks. One was successful (and completely my fault, I’d scared him with the mister) but the second seemed relatively unprovoked? It was near feeding time, but he hadn’t even SEEN the mouse before striking for my hand (which was NOT holding the mouse, but adjusting his hide so it wouldn’t crush his head after he moved under it)

Should I take both of these at face value as completely separate instances? Or do snakes just become more prone to biting as they age? He’s never even moved to strike at me before, he’s an absolute sweetheart who loves to climb and I really would like to know if this is just a part of him aging or if I’ve done something to cause him such intense distress.

[Bogertophis]

Evening! My BP just turned 2 at the beginning of the month, and he’s also struck at me twice in the last two weeks. One was successful (and completely my fault, I’d scared him with the mister) but the second seemed relatively unprovoked? It was near feeding time, but he hadn’t even SEEN the mouse before striking for my hand (which was NOT holding the mouse, but adjusting his hide so it wouldn’t crush his head after he moved under it)

Should I take both of these at face value as completely separate instances? Or do snakes just become more prone to biting as they age? He’s never even moved to strike at me before, he’s an absolute sweetheart who loves to climb and I really would like to know if this is just a part of him aging or if I’ve done something to cause him such intense distress.

Most snakes are LESS prone to bite us as they get older, once we have kept them longer. Mostly because by that time, we've learned not to wave our hands within reach when they're hungry and smelling food in the room, & not to startle them with other things. Every snake is an individual- some are more jumpy than others, just like us, but if you don't want to earn bites from your snake, you need to remember that he doesn't recognize you visually- what he reacts to is something nearby or approaching that's warm & wiggling (moving).

To your snake, that could be food or a threatening predator, so it's always up to you not to startle him & to give him clues so he knows what's going on. Scent & touch help a lot- sometimes just blowing air across your hand in the direction of the snake will give him enough of your scent to go on, but many here like to use "touch" also- & since it's wise not to risk your hand, look into "hook training". I also hope you're using feeding tongs to offer his food?

It's also possible that your snake is not being fed enough for his growing body, so you might reassess his size versus what you're feeding. A hungry snake will be thinking "FOOD!" & it's up to you to know that & change his mind before getting within range. It takes practice to read a snakes body language but it gets easier & sure beats getting bit.

Even after you feed a snake & they're 'full'- they may still be in "feed mode" for hours or even a day or more, when they're still likely to nail anything (ie. you) that's within reach & might be edible- so make sure you ALWAYS signal your snake that you're not incoming food- it's good manners (so you don't startle them) & in your best interest to avoid bites. Your snake doesn't actually want to bite YOU- but they don't know that ahead of time without more information.

Just because you can't talk to a snake (& have them hear you) doesn't mean you shouldn't always communicate with them- that will keep them calmer too, when they understand what's going on.

[Homebody]

Should I take both of these at face value as completely separate instances? Or do snakes just become more prone to biting as they age? He’s never even moved to strike at me before...

You should take them both at face value as completely separate instances. The explanations you've provided for each instance sound like the most likely explanations. If you are more careful when misting and feeding, you should be fine.

Although, while two strikes in two weeks is probably a coincidence, it is a little weird from a BP that you've been keeping for years. If a more careful approach doesn't solve the issue and your BP keeps biting, then the sudden change in temperament does warrant looking into. Boger's suggestion regarding underfeeding is where I'd start.

[PecanPied]

Thank you both! I’ll try to hit most of the points in both replies
-To start, I do (and always have) used tongs to feed him
-I may look into a different feeding schedule/size. If anyone has suggestions for a ~600g male that would be wonderful, as he’s (currently) on one of the 2-3 recommended diets I’ve seen for his size. I may have just picked the wrong one😅
-I double checked and it was actually twice in three weeks, and someone else pointed out to me that both occurred near/during feedings. So as I’m typing this, I’m realizing it more than likely has to do with feedings
-An additional question, would shedding make them more prone to biting? He had a bit of a rough shed that started about the week of the first bite, and I was only able to get the last remnants of stuck shed off of him this past week (GENTLY, with humidity and washcloth, that he was very relaxed for). Of course I’m not trying to look for some “what about THIS” solution, but more so other things to look out for
Again, thank you both for your responses. I’m going to be looking into changing up feeding to see if that helps

[Bogertophis]

Yes, shedding can make a snake defensive (nippy) too- they instinctively lay low because they don't see well when in shed, & know they're more vulnerable to predators. So even though you're not a predator, you're coming up against his instincts- his automatic reactions when he's feeling unsafe, or hungry (in the other events).

Again, snakes don't "know" things visually, at least not with all the details: "Prey? or predator? or just that strange & hopefully-harmless creature that keeps hanging around here?"

Honestly, most snake bites are truly avoidable (preventable) just by slowing down & letting your snake know what's going on- I can't remember the last time I got tagged- it's been a very long time & I have a lot of snakes. But I pay close attention to their body language so I know what's on their mind, & I let them know what I'm up to.

Hungry snakes tend to be "optimists"- ("Oh boy, that MUST be prey coming!") LOL So just stay out of their way.

[bcr229]

It was near feeding time, but he hadn’t even SEEN the mouse before striking for my hand (which was NOT holding the mouse, but adjusting his hide so it wouldn’t crush his head after he moved under it)

Bear in mind that ball pythons don't have great eyesight and while he hadn't seen the feeder he had most definitely smelled it. Your hand is warm and moves, and he's smelling mouse and his heat pits are telling him there is warmth and movement nearby, so he will instinctively strike at your hand thinking it is the mouse.

Snakes have an incredibly powerful sense of smell. I can be warming rodents in a sealed cooler full of hot water downstairs in my kitchen, and upstairs in the snake room all of my boas and larger pythons will be up in the front of their enclosures waiting for a rodent to magically appear.

[Malum Argenteum]

Just to add to all the great advice so far: I've found that front opening double door enclosures are the best for keeper safety at feeding time. One door can be opened (partially, especially if a sliding door) to insert the prey item, with the other serving as a barrier. Yet another reason why I think PVC enclosures are the best by far. On feeding day and the couple days before, snakes turn the 'ambush predator' thing up to maximum.

Another thing I didn't see mentioned is that your snake might be "overdue" for switching to rats. Whether this is true or just my imagination, my snakes seem to get "satisfied" more by a rat than a mouse of equal weight.

And this may be blasphemy, but I don't put much stock in strict feeding schedules and sizes. Snakes are as different as humans in their dietary preferences -- some eat a lot or a little, some prefer smaller or larger prey items. Reasonable prepackaged guidelines are certainly a good place to start, but then watching the snake and adjusting as needed is good ongoing care. Each of my snakes has a feeding card with current preferred prey item written on it, and a have a magnetic calendar where each group of snakes gets a marker that is moved ahead the appropriate number of days at each feeding, a number that is sometimes modified in relation to recent food acceptance rates (so, if a group of snakes have a couple unexplained skips at a feeding, I push the marker out a few days farther, or resort the groups). Snakes that are outliers either get their own marker or a note to skip every other feeding in relation to others in its group.

An anecdote related to your situation: a hognose (male, tiny little guy) I had for about 8 years, always well mannered even at feeding time, one day decided my hand was the prey item and made an epic launch for it. It turned out to be the worst animal bite I've ever received in terms of bleeding (he apparently got a fang in, and I pulled away in a startle response).

[Bogertophis]

I'm not one for strict feeding schedules either (as Malum Argenteum explained in above post), but we both have lots of snake experience under our belts & I know that when you're fairly new at snake-keeping, it's understandable that you seek "guidelines" to make sure you're doing it "right". Anyway, that's why I often remind everyone that nature sure doesn't deliver meals on schedule either, nor are they all identical (weight or even species). Some flexibility is just fine- it's actually more realistic. And many of us have our own methods that work for us & our animals.

(That hognose bite sure must have been epically messy! )