T10 enclosure divider for baby ball python?

[GamingChickens]

I am planning on getting a baby ball python in about a year, and I was wondering about the size of the enclosure. I want to get an AP T10 for when she is full grown, but I can't get multiple enclosures to increase the size of a starter tub as the baby gets older. Would I be able to use the divider to keep the baby in one half, then remove it as she grows? Also, would the use of a RHP sized for the entire T10 make the baby overheat because she's only in one half? Sorry if this is a newbie question, just wanted to ask.

[Homebody]

I am planning on getting a baby ball python in about a year, and I was wondering about the size of the enclosure. I want to get an AP T10 for when she is full grown, but I can't get multiple enclosures to increase the size of a starter tub as the baby gets older. Would I be able to use the divider to keep the baby in one half, then remove it as she grows? Also, would the use of a RHP sized for the entire T10 make the baby overheat because she's only in one half? Sorry if this is a newbie question, just wanted to ask.

I think a divider can make the enclosure an appropriate size, but I think that size RHP will make it too hot. You could hold off on the RHP and use a UTH instead if your room temps aren't too low. UTHs aren't expensive.

[GamingChickens]

Thank you! I was just worried about using an UTH because I heard that they don't work that well with PVC, and where I live the tempuratures fluctuate often, so I was concerned about keeping the temp stable.

[Homebody]

Thank you! I was just worried about using an UTH because I heard that they don't work that well with PVC, and where I live the tempuratures fluctuate often, so I was concerned about keeping the temp stable.

You are wise to be concerned because I think you'll need ambient temps above 75 degrees for a this to work.

[Malum Argenteum]

I think a divider can make the enclosure an appropriate size, but I think that size RHP will make it too hot. You could hold off on the RHP and use a UTH instead if your room temps aren't too low. UTHs aren't expensive.

Well, no size RHP will itself make any area/volume too hot; the high temperature under the RHP is a function of the thermostat. An RHP that covers too much of the enclosure's area may make the hot spot too large, though.

Whether too large a hot spot would be detrimental isn't something I (a relative BP novice) can't answer. For a species like P. brongersmai this wouldn't be a problem at all, since they are easily run at constant uniform temps.

[Homebody]

Well, no size RHP will itself make any area/volume too hot; the high temperature under the RHP is a function of the thermostat. An RHP that covers too much of the enclosure's area may make the hot spot too large, though.

That's what meant. The too large hotspot created by the RHP wouldn't allow for a proper temperature gradient.

[dakski]

You would have to have a really good thermostat and proper probe placement, and a smaller RHP, to make it work. If you get the tank dialed in well before the snake goes in, you can experiment. However, see below for what I would do instead. Regarding under tank heaters, they can work with PVC, but I recommend heat tape instead. That's what I have on all my tanks (all PVC). If you decide to use an UTH, make sure your thermostat is placed properly (ask if not sure), and if proper temps are set, and it shouldn't be an issue. Same with heat tape.

Further, I wouldn't put a very young BP into a big enclosure like that..until settled in and out of quarantine.

My suggestion, if getting a baby BP, is to have a small enclosure for quarantine, and have the big enclosure set up for 3 months or so down the line when the snake is eating reliably, known to be healthy, etc.

In general I think many people assume that a large tank won't work for a babies and many have had issues, but there are probably other variables at play. With various snake species, including BP's, I've done well as long as proper temps and humidity are met and the tank is cluttered with many hiding spots. Even now, my BP, Shayna, who is 1,800G and ten years old, is in a 4X2' enclosure. However, between the water bowl, two snug hides, and one larger hide, doesn't have a lot of free space. She likes it that way. She spends most of her time curled up in either the warm or cool hide.

The issue with big enclosures and little snakes in general is that there is too much room and they do not feel safe. A snake that feels vulnerable will be stressed, and likely not eat or thrive.

I understand that certain snakes, like BP's and hognose, to name two, can benefit from smaller spaces, certainly, when little. However, although not a definite, I still think proper husbandry, letting the snake settle in, etc. can allow for a young BP, once eating reliably, to thrive in a bigger enclosure.

Alternatively, get an older BP - 6-12 months, for example. They will be more established and after quarantine, can easily be moved into your bigger enclosure.

This is my two cents, and I am sure others will disagree.

[Homebody]

Regarding under tank heaters, they can work with PVC, but I recommend heat tape instead.

Alternatively, get an older BP - 6-12 months, for example. They will be more established and after quarantine, can easily be moved into your bigger enclosure.

When I said UTH, I was thinking heat tape. I like heat tape better than those bulky ZooMed things. They work, but they're too expensive.

I would also encourage you to get an adult snake, particularly if this is your first reptile. Adult animals are hardier, so there is a greater margin for rookie mistakes.

[Bogertophis]

Not necessarily an "adult" snake, but a young one that's well-started- at least 6-12 mos. old should be better established & more resilient about the stress of a new home.

*****If you do get a hatchling snake- get a "feeding record" on them- ESPECIALLY what specifically they've eaten- rat or mouse, size, live-fresh killed or f/t (frozen-thawed) & how offered (drop fed at night, offered from tongs? etc). Most if not all responsible breeders will provide this- if they blow your questions off, buy elsewhere, from someone who doesn't. Info you want includes their hatch date & known genetic info. It can be hard for a new snake owner to get a newly-hatched snake feeding for their first meals. Some are easy- but some are not.*****

The flip side is that really mature snakes (that have only known one home for years) can be MORE stressed out when all of a sudden their whole world changes. Snakes in the wild learn their way around- for safety & survival, they must know where to hide from bad weather, temperature extremes & predators. Imagine how confusing & frightening that must be for a snake after living in one place for years & suddenly everything changes, including their humans? So it's a bit of a trade-off.