New owner advice

[Liv.python]

Hello everyone

I've been following this forum for a while and finally I got my first ball python 1 month ago. I'm so in love! He's so beautiful and has a great temperament.
However, I need a little advice.

I think most of you don't recommend hook training for ball python, but I bought one just in case.

I wanted to ask you what is the safest way to take him out of his enclosure with my hand. Because yesterday I was in a big reptile show and a guy told me that it's better to take them from behind, but this is impossible as the opening of the enclosure is on the front and he's always facing the front glass as it's where he can see, so my hand is always coming from the front, so towards his head...

They also told me that it's better to touch his nose with the hook in case they are asleep, and turn them around with the hook if they face you, to take them from behind.

What do you recommend? I would like to take the maximum precautions to avoid a bite, either defensive bite, for startling him or for him confusing my hand for food. Basically to be able to safely put my hand inside and change his water or take him out of his enclosure in the safest possible way, especially when he grows (he already bit me once, entirely my fault, and it hurt nothing, but mainly for when he's bigger).

And a last question... They do recognize you right? I'm not saying they love you like a dog or a cat, but do they recognize their owners? Because someone told me that they don't because they don't have that capacity, but I've always thought they do!

Thank you!

[Lord Sorril]

Greetings!

Congrats on your new ball python!

As you mentioned ball python bites are usually either Feeding or Defensive. Hunger bites are understandable, Defensive bites are less predictable: sometimes when they are in shed they have extremely limited vision and if they are sleeping they may be startled awake and immediately strike. When I am performing husbandry: I am on a mission-and I don't want to have to try and figure out what sort of mood every snakes is in... I will borrow a small plastic lid off a bin and hold it up as a mini-shield in front of the snakes nose when I open the enclosure and then reach around the shield and pick them up from behind. Unless it is a hatchling it will realize as soon as I touch it that it is not feeding time and I can easily lift them up without a second-thought. It helps if you are quick because the ball python does not have time to realize the distraction.

As for owner recognition: my ball pythons recognize my foot steps and if a stranger comes in the room they retreat into their hides. They also realize a variety of cues when a different person handles them-and this can otherwise calm ball python a bit agitated.

[Homebody]

Hello everyone

I've been following this forum for a while and finally I got my first ball python 1 month ago. I'm so in love! He's so beautiful and has a great temperament.
However, I need a little advice.

I think most of you don't recommend hook training for ball python, but I bought one just in case.

I wanted to ask you what is the safest way to take him out of his enclosure with my hand. Because yesterday I was in a big reptile show and a guy told me that it's better to take them from behind, but this is impossible as the opening of the enclosure is on the front and he's always facing the front glass as it's where he can see, so my hand is always coming from the front, so towards his head...

They also told me that it's better to touch his nose with the hook in case they are asleep, and turn them around with the hook if they face you, to take them from behind.

What do you recommend? I would like to take the maximum precautions to avoid a bite, either defensive bite, for startling him or for him confusing my hand for food. Basically to be able to safely put my hand inside and change his water or take him out of his enclosure in the safest possible way, especially when he grows (he already bit me once, entirely my fault, and it hurt nothing, but mainly for when he's bigger).

And a last question... They do recognize you right? I'm not saying they love you like a dog or a cat, but do they recognize their owners? Because someone told me that they don't because they don't have that capacity, but I've always thought they do!

Thank you!

Ball pythons are, generally, very reticent to bite. That is why most of us wouldn't recommend hook training one. It's unnecessary. I had a ball python for a couple years. To avoid bites, I was just careful not to startle him. When you open his enclosure, he should acknowledge you in some way: turn toward you, tongue flick at you, or something like that. Then, you can reach reach around and grab him from behind. No hook needed.

Now, that works for the vast majority of ball pythons that are reticent to bite. For the others, hook training is a good idea. There is an instructional thread here.

[Bogertophis]

Hello everyone

I've been following this forum for a while and finally I got my first ball python 1 month ago. I'm so in love! He's so beautiful and has a great temperament.
However, I need a little advice.

I think most of you don't recommend hook training for ball python, but I bought one just in case.

I wanted to ask you what is the safest way to take him out of his enclosure with my hand. Because yesterday I was in a big reptile show and a guy told me that it's better to take them from behind, but this is impossible as the opening of the enclosure is on the front and he's always facing the front glass as it's where he can see, so my hand is always coming from the front, so towards his head...

They also told me that it's better to touch his nose with the hook in case they are asleep, and turn them around with the hook if they face you, to take them from behind.

What do you recommend? I would like to take the maximum precautions to avoid a bite, either defensive bite, for startling him or for him confusing my hand for food. Basically to be able to safely put my hand inside and change his water or take him out of his enclosure in the safest possible way, especially when he grows (he already bit me once, entirely my fault, and it hurt nothing, but mainly for when he's bigger).

And a last question... They do recognize you right? I'm not saying they love you like a dog or a cat, but do they recognize their owners? Because someone told me that they don't because they don't have that capacity, but I've always thought they do!

Thank you!

Just a few thoughts- (and FYI, I've had BPs in past years, but none currently- I live with 17 more "reactive" rat snakes & others, like a spotted python).

Since you already bought a hook, what I'd suggest using it for is not to tap your snake on the nose, but to just touch him mid-body with it- lightly stroke him for a minute to let him know it's you & something familiar is happening. You can also use a hook to slide under him (mid-body) & slightly lift up- not all the way- but it's just a reminder of handling you're about to do.

Most of our snakes do NOT recognize us visually, or if they do somewhat, they still prefer more cues- our touch* & in the case of my snakes, my scent. BPs don't seem as into scent as some kinds of snakes, but that's probably because they have heat sensing pits they pay more attention to. *Our touch doesn't have to be only our hands- your snake will learn the touch of your hook also, to know it's you & be reassured. That's all that "tap training" is about, but trust me, tapping a snake on the nose is pretty rude- they don't like their head or face touched anyway.

If you want to try giving your scent also, the way I do it with my snakes is to blow air across my hand in the snake's direction & thru the screen. Watch for their tongue-flicking. Some people prefer to dangle an empty shirt sleeve (that's been worn & has your scent on it), or if you have long hair (as I do), sometimes I use that also- but you have to keep your face out of the way, obviously.

Whatever methods you use, remember you're just trying to reassure & not startle your buddy, who happens to be nearsighted & mostly deaf- It's just good manners to communicate.

When approaching a snake, (& assuming they're awake) they're not sure if we're prey or predator. Nothing in their instincts says "owner-pal"- but most do seem to learn that, and with kind, patient treatment, most learn to feel "safe" with us- which certainly is my goal & most likely yours too. We're not on their "menu"- so bites are either confusion (with prey) or self-defense.

[Liv.python]

Thank you so much for your answers! They are so helpful! I will keep the advice in mind and try those tips! So far it's been great and I just take him directly, but I was more "concerned" for the future when he's older.
Thank you again!

[Homebody]

Thank you so much for your answers! They are so helpful! I will keep the advice in mind and try those tips! So far it's been great and I just take him directly, but I was more "concerned" for the future when he's older.
Thank you again!

I don't think you have anything to worry about. If a ball python is bitey, it's going to be as a baby. If he's not biting you now, he's not going to start when he's more mature.

[Armiyana]

Typically they spend a lot of time during the day in a hide so as long as you avoid moving right outside of the hide entrance you should be fine. I will lift the hides off them if I need to be up close to that area so they know it's not feeding time or anything as well. They loose the ambush position they had and need to reevaluate the situation.

If it is a male you usually don't have to worry about them getting more bitey later. Females may sometimes if they are ovulating in breeding season, but it's different for each snake. One of mine is an absolute sweetheart no matter what's going on.

Ball pythons can be very heavy bodied so lifting them out with the hook can be detrimental to them. As mentioned above, it can be helpful in some applications like the gentle touch or slight lift to help you get a hand under them.

For one of my most defensive ones, for a bit I used a plastic plate as a distraction. She would lock in on the large plate, I would move it over her and gently rest it on her and reach around to pick her up from the back. As soon as the big plate got too close she would go from defensive strike pose to defensive hunkered down.
Eventually I was able to get her body tells down well enough to switch to using my hand. That was I could assertively use my open palmed hand to get her from one phase to the other and lift from the back.

[Bogertophis]

A quick afterthought- if your snake is in their hide & you wish to spot clean or change the water without risking a bite, you can just take a piece of cardboard or a plastic top from a container & block their view (put it in front of the doorway of their hide) while you briefly do what you need to do. Most snakes just accept that & don't even try to come out around it or push it away. My own "view-blocker" is a ping-pong paddle- it has a nice weight to it (it leans well), & even my large rat snakes just take the hint. Most snakes are easy to live with, with just some consideration & signals on our part so as not to confuse or frighten them. It all gets easier- you'll see. By the way,

[Liv.python]

Thank you!

Right now the entrance is not big enough to pass a plate or something like that, the terrarium is not very big (it's way too big for him though), I plan to change it when he has a grown up size.

So far, when I need to change the water, I just do it without any precautions and nothing has happened. I also do it when I have him on me when I handle him.

The only time he bit me is because I had the horrible idea to lift him with the hook, plus his tail got a bit stuck in the cave when I pulled, so he gave me a defensive bite (that hurt nothing), nothing apart from that. He is 2 months old btw

[dakski]

Thank you!

Right now the entrance is not big enough to pass a plate or something like that, the terrarium is not very big (it's way too big for him though), I plan to change it when he has a grown up size.

So far, when I need to change the water, I just do it without any precautions and nothing has happened. I also do it when I have him on me when I handle him.

The only time he bit me is because I had the horrible idea to lift him with the hook, plus his tail got a bit stuck in the cave when I pulled, so he gave me a defensive bite (that hurt nothing), nothing apart from that. He is 2 months old btw

I agree with what's been said.

I will say that, per the hook training thread, the hook should be used to let the snake know you are there, and not to pick them up, especially ground dwellers/burrowers like BP's. They have heavy body and the pressure a small hook can cause centralized on part of a BP's body can be painful and even hurt the snake. First, I use the handle of the hook to let the snake know I am there. Secondly, the handle is thicker and gives a long area for the snake to grab if they want. I imagine most BP's won't, but my Carpet Python and Boas enjoy grabbing and wrapping the hook periodically.

In terms of bites, as you said, they really don't hurt much (from even larger BP's and many smaller snakes), it's the fear factor and speed at which it can happen (worst bite I've had was from a Children's Python adult who was chill and then decided my hand was food - so speed bites aren't the only ones ). Remember, most bites are your fault for not reading your snake well, or being hesitant, or scary to them. Snakes bite for 2 reasons. Hunger and fear. That's it. They also don't hold grudges or get mad, etc. They don't have the capacity for it.

He's still very young and will likely outgrow the biting. Over time and with respect, he will learn to trust you (and others).

In terms of getting to know you, I think many snakes do recognize us by scent, but generally, once they learn to trust humans, are good with all humans who support their bodies and treat them with respect. They don't love or prefer one human over another. To them, we are just big warm trees.

I keep saying respect, because I do believe that being respectful, gentle, and kind, with most animals pays dividends. We have to trust as well, not just them.

Lizards can be different. Monitors, for example, are very smart and skeptical. This means they need to learn to trust and often one person. My Blue Tongue Skink, Frank, is discriminant. He will eat out of my hand, but often not strangers' hands. Once I get him in food mode though, he's a little more flexible. Still even for a calm and trusting species, like BTS, they tend to recognize their keeper and food provider over others.