New owner advice

[Bogertophis]

...

The only time he bit me is because I had the horrible idea to lift him with the hook, plus his tail got a bit stuck in the cave when I pulled, so he gave me a defensive bite (that hurt nothing), nothing apart from that. He is 2 months old btw

Just a quick note- never "pull" a snake- you can rather easily, without meaning to, dislocate their spinal bones or internal organs- because they're not strong that way, & we're SO much bigger than they are, it's very easy to use excessive force on a snake.

Do remember this if (when- ) your snake starts to go into something where you don't want him to go- the temptation is to pull them back, but it's essential to merely restrain them from going in further, & be patient until they decide to back up- otherwise you may have a badly injured snake & not know why. Which is why it's so important to "think ahead" where your snake may go, & if it's dangerous or problematic, prevent them from going there & getting into trouble.

In the incident you described, your snake was afraid of you, but may also have felt pain. I say this not as any sort of "guilt trip" but so you learn the best way to handle snakes- & more importantly, the reason why.

Incidentally, most of us use hides that have no "floor" & which can merely be lifted up off the snake in an emergency*- but there are some "hides" (cage decor) being sold in pet stores that snakes can get "stuck" in- many are intended for tropical fish or other animals, & should not be used for snakes- especially the 'castles' & such for tropical fish, as they often have sharp edges inside them which fish have no problem with, but which can cut our snakes up badly- just fyi.

Bottom line- never pull a snake. They don't possess enough muscle to resist & keep from getting injured- their musculature is geared for constriction & locomotion. To put it in human terms, just because someone can run a mile, doesn't mean they can do even one chin-up- it's different muscles.

[Liv.python]

I agree with what's been said.

I will say that, per the hook training thread, the hook should be used to let the snake know you are there, and not to pick them up, especially ground dwellers/burrowers like BP's. They have heavy body and the pressure a small hook can cause centralized on part of a BP's body can be painful and even hurt the snake. First, I use the handle of the hook to let the snake know I am there. Secondly, the handle is thicker and gives a long area for the snake to grab if they want. I imagine most BP's won't, but my Carpet Python and Boas enjoy grabbing and wrapping the hook periodically.

In terms of bites, as you said, they really don't hurt much (from even larger BP's and many smaller snakes), it's the fear factor and speed at which it can happen (worst bite I've had was from a Children's Python adult who was chill and then decided my hand was food - so speed bites aren't the only ones ). Remember, most bites are your fault for not reading your snake well, or being hesitant, or scary to them. Snakes bite for 2 reasons. Hunger and fear. That's it. They also don't hold grudges or get mad, etc. They don't have the capacity for it.

He's still very young and will likely outgrow the biting. Over time and with respect, he will learn to trust you (and others).

In terms of getting to know you, I think many snakes do recognize us by scent, but generally, once they learn to trust humans, are good with all humans who support their bodies and treat them with respect. They don't love or prefer one human over another. To them, we are just big warm trees.

I keep saying respect, because I do believe that being respectful, gentle, and kind, with most animals pays dividends. We have to trust as well, not just them.

Lizards can be different. Monitors, for example, are very smart and skeptical. This means they need to learn to trust and often one person. My Blue Tongue Skink, Frank, is discriminant. He will eat out of my hand, but often not strangers' hands. Once I get him in food mode though, he's a little more flexible. Still even for a calm and trusting species, like BTS, they tend to recognize their keeper and food provider over others.

Yes absolutely! I know the hook training is not about picking them up with it. I don't know why I did it to be honest but it was a terrible idea...

Thank you so much for all the advice!

I'm curious, why is it different with lizards? Don't they have (lizards and snakes) a very similar brain?

[Liv.python]

Just a quick note- never "pull" a snake- you can rather easily, without meaning to, dislocate their spinal bones or internal organs- because they're not strong that way, & we're SO much bigger than they are, it's very easy to use excessive force on a snake.

Do remember this if (when- ) your snake starts to go into something where you don't want him to go- the temptation is to pull them back, but it's essential to merely restrain them from going in further, & be patient until they decide to back up- otherwise you may have a badly injured snake & not know why. Which is why it's so important to "think ahead" where your snake may go, & if it's dangerous or problematic, prevent them from going there & getting into trouble.

In the incident you described, your snake was afraid of you, but may also have felt pain. I say this not as any sort of "guilt trip" but so you learn the best way to handle snakes- & more importantly, the reason why.

Incidentally, most of us use hides that have no "floor" & which can merely be lifted up off the snake in an emergency*- but there are some "hides" (cage decor) being sold in pet stores that snakes can get "stuck" in- many are intended for tropical fish or other animals, & should not be used for snakes- especially the 'castles' & such for tropical fish, as they often have sharp edges inside them which fish have no problem with, but which can cut our snakes up badly- just fyi.

Bottom line- never pull a snake. They don't possess enough muscle to resist & keep from getting injured- their musculature is geared for constriction & locomotion. To put it in human terms, just because someone can run a mile, doesn't mean they can do even one chin-up- it's different muscles.

I agree completely! And I won't do it again! It wasn't my intention really, and it was a very light pull, but that and also taking him with the hook was the reason for him to strike...

Thank you for all the advice!

[Albert Clark]

I agree with what's been said.

I will say that, per the hook training thread, the hook should be used to let the snake know you are there, and not to pick them up, especially ground dwellers/burrowers like BP's. They have heavy body and the pressure a small hook can cause centralized on part of a BP's body can be painful and even hurt the snake. First, I use the handle of the hook to let the snake know I am there. Secondly, the handle is thicker and gives a long area for the snake to grab if they want. I imagine most BP's won't, but my Carpet Python and Boas enjoy grabbing and wrapping the hook periodically.

In terms of bites, as you said, they really don't hurt much (from even larger BP's and many smaller snakes), it's the fear factor and speed at which it can happen (worst bite I've had was from a Children's Python adult who was chill and then decided my hand was food - so speed bites aren't the only ones ). Remember, most bites are your fault for not reading your snake well, or being hesitant, or scary to them. Snakes bite for 2 reasons. Hunger and fear. That's it. They also don't hold grudges or get mad, etc. They don't have the capacity for it.

He's still very young and will likely outgrow the biting. Over time and with respect, he will learn to trust you (and others).

In terms of getting to know you, I think many snakes do recognize us by scent, but generally, once they learn to trust humans, are good with all humans who support their bodies and treat them with respect. They don't love or prefer one human over another. To them, we are just big warm trees.

I keep saying respect, because I do believe that being respectful, gentle, and kind, with most animals pays dividends. We have to trust as well, not just them.

Lizards can be different. Monitors, for example, are very smart and skeptical. This means they need to learn to trust and often one person. My Blue Tongue Skink, Frank, is discriminant. He will eat out of my hand, but often not strangers' hands. Once I get him in food mode though, he's a little more flexible. Still even for a calm and trusting species, like BTS, they tend to recognize their keeper and food provider over others.

THIS FOR SURE ^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Just a caveat to dakski would be is that most reptiles (snakes) are head shy and head protective. It’s just instinct and if you can touch their heads with either a hook or similar object initially, you will most times get them out of defensive mode into a retreating ( running away) mode. Justin Kobylka has a great training YouTube video on it and talks about it in the sense of dominating the reptile by slightly pressing down on their heads. It’s a great method that works.