snake finally coming out

[Cerberrus]

will try when i can but the bowl is 10" long so if i had to say she is about 15 inch

[Bogertophis]

will try when i can but the bowl is 10" long so if i had to say she is about 15 inch

So now you need to define (show?) what you are talking about with rodent sizes. You do know that rats & mice are different species? & they come in many sizes, but most spotted pythons are not raised on pinky rats because pinky rats are too big for hatchling spotted pythons- they can only manage pinky MICE. Your snake, if 15" now, can best manage fuzzy (eyes closed) mice or pinky rat, but not a "weaned rat". I'm just trying to help, but your posts have been very confusing.

[Homebody]

Hey there guys new snake owner here i was just wondering my snake has been hiding for about 3 months now she finally eat about 1 week ago but tru up her food. she is now coming out when i am doing stuff in her tank and getting close to me i have not held her yet or let he smell me cus i am worried. last time i tried she went to bite me. she was very friendly before i bought her so i was wondering should i let her smell me and worst case take the bite or should i give her some more time now that she is finally moving around.

You should hold off on handling until your spotted python is eating. When you do handle your snake, you'll want to avoid stressing her out and getting bit. To avoid stressing your snake out, I advise you to use choice-based handling approach. Lori Torrini has a great instruction video here. Choice-base handling reduces the stress of handling by allowing your snake to choose whether and to what extent it's handled. This is particularly important for you because stressing your snake will reduce the likelihood that she'll eat.

To avoid getting bitten while working in the enclosure, I advise wearing gloves. Your snake will react to the warmth and movement of your hands. Wearing gloves keeps you from triggering her predatory behavior. I have a Children's python. I used to ball up my fist and let him sniff me before working in his enclosure. That worked pretty well, but I had to do it over and over again every time I put my hand in. Other times, I thought it was safe because I didn't see him only to have him strike from nowhere. Wearing gloves is simpler.

[Bogertophis]

You should hold off on handling until your spotted python is eating. When you do handle your snake, you'll want to avoid stressing her out and getting bit. To avoid stressing your snake out, I advise you to use choice-based handling approach. Lori Torrini has a great instruction video here. Choice-base handling reduces the stress of handling by allowing your snake to choose whether and to what extent it's handled. This is particularly important for you because stressing your snake will reduce the likelihood that she'll eat.

To avoid getting bitten while working in the enclosure, I advise wearing gloves. Your snake will react to the warmth and movement of your hands. Wearing gloves keeps you from triggering her predatory behavior. I have a Children's python. I used to ball up my fist and let him sniff me before working in his enclosure. That worked pretty well, but I had to do it over and over again every time I put my hand in. Other times, I thought it was safe because I didn't see him only to have him strike from nowhere. Wearing gloves is simpler.

I've never been a fan of wearing gloves, for 2 reasons: (But to anyone reading this- By all means, do what you feel comfortable with & what works best for you.)

For one thing, the thickness of the gloves (assuming they're thick enough to protect your hands from snake teeth) means you lack sensitivity when handling a delicate snake. You can easily use too much force, or not enough grip. To me, gloves are awkward.

For another, the snake never learns your scent, & may still want to bite you whenever it comes across your warm bare skin. Personally, I've never had a problem with my Spotted python biting me. Mine's also a female with a great "never-ending" appetite. But she quickly learned my scent & touch- with many snakes, I prefer to blow air across my hand, in their direction (like thru the screen, or from enough distance) before approaching too close & picking them up; in this way, they're reassured who & what is coming, & also know it's not food. Normally when a snake is thinking "Food?" & they catch my scent, they quickly catch on & quickly back down. Then when I go to pick them up, I gently touch them mid-body since they recognize my touch also- this reinforces the "scent" introduction. Naturally, I watch their reaction closely at each step, to make sure nothing needs repeated- bites are very rare for me, because I "communicate" in ways my snakes understand- scent & touch.

Always remember- most snakes do not positively recognize us visually (using their vision alone)- they NEED these other cues. And if you forget, most will "remind" you... It's common for snakes to chase our motion when they're in their enclosures & we move nearby. They're thinking "Prey incoming? Or predator?" They're NOT thinking "Oh, hey, there's my vertical buddy, coming to hang out with me!" That's because they're only going by vision. If you can manage to remember what your snake is actually thinking, & then communicate​ the information he needs, I think nearly all bites are avoidable.

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One more thing- with a spotted python, just as with a ball python- they have heat-sensing pits- so that's another thing they use besides vision. To put it in their terms, "If it's warm and wiggling, it might be food!" It's up to US to make sure they "get" our scent & our touch. If you're wearing gloves all the time, that hides both your scent AND your body-warmth, so that's another reason your snake may not learn to recognize you as well, & may instead just nip whenever "warmth + motion" is present. And since snakes don't logically know that all of our "moving parts" are part of the same creature, they might not bite your gloved hand, but someday when you least expect it & when you lean too close, they might think your nose looks "do-able"! Or your foot: One time, I was relaxing with a snake on my lap- one with heat-sensing pits- & when I uncrossed & moved my feet around for comfort, that snake started to go after my FOOT! I had a hand partly under the snake though, & quickly refocused their attention so I got no bite, but I share that as an example of how snakes think- or don't. Try to see things as they do- that's how to avoid bites.

[Cerberrus]

hey ya sorry i will try to get a pic but i usually just ask for a weaned rat and its white and black. The only reason i feed her that kind is because the previous owner said she fed her that and that the snake is very picky and only eats weaned

[Cerberrus]

ya i am in no rush to hold her at all i wanna make sure she is comfortable first before anything els. i just asked cus i wanted to make sure me constantly avoiding her was not putting her on edge

[Bogertophis]

hey ya sorry i will try to get a pic but i usually just ask for a weaned rat and its white and black. The only reason i feed her that kind is because the previous owner said she fed her that and that the snake is very picky and only eats weaned

Weaned means that "eyes are open & eating solid food, not just nursing" which sounds like it's too big for your 15" snake to eat even IF it's a mouse* & NOT a "rat"!

And when either a young rat or mouse is "black & white", that means their fur is in- so yes, a weaned RAT is MUCH TOO BIG for your 15" snake. (Are you SERIOUS?)

If your poor snake is hungry enough to somehow choke that down, that's why she threw up last time- that is HARMFUL to your snake. DO NOT FEED such large things to a small snake. If your snake is truly 15" (& there's no way I can tell from that photo) she should be eating MICE- either fuzzies or very small hopper, and nothing that is wider than her mid-body- preferably less than.

[Cerberrus]

like i said i am just going off of what the previous owner told me

[Cerberrus]

so when should i try feeding her again and you are saying to get a fuzzy mouse

[Bogertophis]

so when should i try feeding her again and you are saying to get a hopper mouse

Actually I didn't say "get a hopper mouse"- a small hopper mouse is the largest furred ("black & white") rodent that your snake, at 15" in length, should be offered, but even that's too big right now. (btw, a hopper mouse is a weaned mouse, not a rat)

AND NOT NEXT FEEDING- get her a fuzzy mouse (eyes closed, not weaned yet) if she'll eat mice? OR a rat pinkie (naked, eyes closed) if she really has been fed rats, which I highly doubt- no offense.

As I said before, she threw up her last meal- her stomach needs time to rest & regenerate (make more) digestive enzymes. Like when you're sick & have stomach flu, you don't start eating big meals right away, do you? (hoping not-) So she needs a much smaller meal that is EASY to digest in another week or so- see IF she keeps it down & digests it. What happens with the next feeding will tell us where you go from there. Got it? Her survival depends on what you do, how well you follow directions- I mean that sincerely.