New juvenile ball python, feedback appreciated on set-up and care (pics)

[MedicalAuthor]

Long-time pet lover, never owned a reptile. When my wife told me that our son wanted a snake for his 7th birthday I jumped to it before she could change her mind.

I’ve watched a few videos, read a few things, and saw ball pythons are best beginner snakes. Saw that there’s conflicting info on what type of habitat (DIY bin versus tank versus whatever), heating (under mat or over lighting), and even disagreements on whether a separate feeding tank is needed or not.

So I found a good local non-chain pet shop and figured I’d start with their recommendations. Guy who helped me seemed knowledgeable and has 9 snakes, breeds them, etc.

Here’s my set up:
20-gallon glass tank, mesh covering with lock
Overhead heating lamp with sensor inside
Juvenile enchi pastel ball python (estimate a couple months old)
Cypress mulch substrate
100 watt
I plan to feed live prey exclusively

Here’s my questions:

1. What’s the consensus on where to feed? The pet store repeated the recommendation I saw online of having a feeding bin so that the snake does not associate reaching into the tank as feeding time, leading to potential bites. The rebuttal I found online also makes sense: there’s no real evidence that this association happens and you’re not supposed to move snakes shortly after eating because of chance of regurgitation, so having a feeding tank is contradictory to this. This last part makes the most sense to me so I wanted to check what people here do? And if the answer is to have a feeding tank, what do I do after the feeding to avoid regurgitation? I fed him for the first time yesterday and tried to do a separate feeding container but we had just introduced him to the family and he was balled up tight and showed no interest or notice of the hopper even after several minutes. I ended up putting the container in the enclosure so we could try some privacy and set up a camera and it eventually unraveled and ate when it was alone.
2. It seemed almost universal online that people recommended the heating pad over the light for better regulation of heat, so I was a little surprised that he recommended the light. Based on the temperature that I usually leave my house with A/C (72F) they suggested I start with 100W and if it’s too hot can switch out for 50W. They also suggested a range of 85-89F and to try not to let it go above 90. Right now it's been around 80-88 on the hot side. Thoughts?
3. Handling: though I’ll be heavily involved in care for it, it’s a gift for my son and I want to balance keeping the snake healthy and him having a good experience with it. I saw it recommended to only handle them 1-2x a week. Is more harmful? And how long should it be at a time? Any tips on getting it acclimated/comfortable being held?
4. Biting: I know that it’s impossible to totally prevent bites but what are tips to avoid biting? Just worried my son will get spooked
5. I'm getting another hide today for the warm side.
6. Any other advice? I figure that ball pythons are thought to be good beginners for a reason and that none of the questions above are going to make or break the experience, but any help for optimal care would be appreciated!

Front pic


Pet store said they recommend two hopper mice per week for my size ball python. This is how big they are comparatively. He ate both yesterday. Good feeding regimen?



Set-up (first day I had him in closet to hide the surprise, now on dresser in kid's room)

[Bogertophis]

7 years is VERY young for a pet snake, so I trust you'll be heavily involved, or this won't work.

1. Feed the snake IN their home where they live. Moving a hungry snake to another container may either get you bit (!) then or afterwards (since snakes stay pumped up in "feed mode" for anywhere from hours to days after eating. OR- a shy snake that is handled prior to feeding may totally REFUSE to eat at all- the only thing that picks up a snake in the wild is a PREDATOR about to eat them- & it takes time for pet snakes to feel safe with us. Feed where they live, in evening/night hours- low lighting, & be low-key about it for best results. Buy & use feeding tongs!

2. Everyone's home is different, as are snake accommodations- what works for some will not for others. Set up & test enclosure for at LEAST a week BEFORE any live snake moves in- it takes time for temps. to stabilize, & if you need other equipment modifications, you may need time to order or install it, & test further. Anything that produces heat should be controlled by thermostats for safety. Changing a cage around after you have a snake may to put them OFF eating due to stress.

3. No handling until the snake has eaten easily at least 3 times in a row at normal (weekly) intervals (not counting refusals due to being in shed- that's normal). Feeding is job #1 for survival.

And don't handle after they eat for a day, preferably 2 days, while they're digesting. Barfing up their meal can actually kill them- you really want to avoid that.
Snakes cannot cough- if they regurgitate their food, they can aspirate & choke to death.

4. Bites hurt, especially to younger children (with softer hands). Learn the snake's body language & understand they bite for several reasons: Self defense (fear!), or confusion when feeding (an honest mistake on their part- use feeding tongs & keep out of their way). Don't keep reaching into their space- they're living animals, not toys.

5. At least 2 hides are essential- also may need a lot more "cover" (privacy) besides hides.

6. Keep reading. Feeding live is okay to start with, but dangerous for your snake when the prey is old & large enough to fight back. (eyes open, either rats or mice) Rodents can kill snakes, especially if the snake isn't hungry- they will ignore the rodent even if it bites them! So NEVER leave live rodents in with your snake- not unless you want large vet bills or a dead snake.

Since you're using a glass tank- you'll need to cover most of the screen to minimize air-flow so as to retain humidity- get a humidity gauge too, one that's accurate. Also, for privacy, it's a good idea to cover the glass on the outside (back & each side) for privacy (can also add insulation for winter if needed) or use a towel over half the cage at least while snake is "settling in". Snakes aren't into "rooms with a view". Tank/enclosure should be in a quiet area- snakes get stressed by doors slamming etc (from vibrations) even though they hear very little- they feel the vibrations.

Understand that most snakes do not recognize us visually- they relate more to our scent & how we touch them. Don't take it personal if they act like they want to bite you thru the glass- it's your motion they're chasing, not actually you! But DO be aware of their mood- either hungry or fearful.

Ball pythons are often said to be great beginner snakes, since they're mostly mellow & docile, & remain a manageable size. That does NOT make them the easiest snakes to keep healthy, however- so again, do your homework to meet the conditions they require. And switch off live prey as soon as you can for best results. (BTW, only put one live hopper in at a time.)

And btw- Good that you chose a snake that's well-started (feeding well). He's pretty too. Do keep a watch for snake mites- just in case- they can kill.

[Homebody]

Wow! So much to say. I think my post may be even longer than Boger's. First, welcome to the forum. Joining this forum was the best thing you could possibly do for the health and welfare of your new snake. Visit often. Read every post, even the posts about reptiles you don't have. You'll be surprised how much you'll learn in a short time.

Second, that's a beautiful little critter. BP's are both docile and hardy which makes them great beginner snakes. You made a great choice for you and your son.

Third, your questions:

1. Feed in the enclosure for all the reasons Boger mentioned above.
2. The lamp's not good. It's too bright and it's going to suck the humidity from your enclosure. You're going to have to leave it on at night to provide heat, but doing so will disrupt your snake sleep cycle. Take it back to the reptile shop and get a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) or Deep Heat Projector (DHP). They provide heat without light. You're still going to have trouble keeping the humidity up, so get a hydrometer, cover the screen, and mist as necessary.
3. Handling stresses the snake, but they can learn to tolerate it. For the next three weeks while your snake is settling in, teach your son to appreciate the joy in observing your snake's behavior. Then, start with short, infrequent handling sessions and build up from there.
4. To avoid bites don't act like either predator or prey. Don't come at your snake quickly or from directly above. Come at it slowly from ground level. Don't surprise it. Let it observe your approach and smell you first (apply hand sanitizer first). This will keep it from confusing you with predator or prey.
5. Yep. You need another hide, two actually. The log hide you're using is not secure enough because it's open at both ends.

Finally, don't get overwhelmed. It can be a lot at first. Relax, take it one step at a time and you and your new snake will be fine.

[Bogertophis]

We recommend this type of hide-box, btw- available from various brands, including this one from Reptile Basics for illustration: https://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

As Homebody mentioned, the open-ended tree bark tunnels are nice "cage furniture" only, but no snake will feel secure in that- & if they don't feel secure (able to hide from predators), most stop eating. They need a minimum of at least 2 equal hides like this- they come in various sizes- so measure your snake when he's curled up & don't buy a much bigger hide- they prefer to feel "back pressure" like being in a cave, where predators cannot sneak up on them.

If the hides are a little too large (to "grow into") you can stuff some crumpled paper inside one end so they feel more snug. Our houses with big front doors, multiple doorways/windows, & high ceilings that look dramatic in magazines don't impress snakes one bit- they want the total opposite.

[EL-Ziggy]

I agree with most of what’s already been said. Your snake should have 2 hides and I’d swap the heat lamp for a CHE or UTH. Feeding inside the enclosure is less stressful for the snake and the keeper. Feeding live is your choice but as Boger said it can become a danger to your snake with larger prey, it’s a pain when the snakes aren’t hungry and you have to figure out what to do with a live mouse or rat, and it’s a lot more expensive than feeding f/t. I don’t see any benefits to live feeding but to each their own.

Kudos for sharing the hobby with your son. I think snakes make great pets for young children as long as they have proper adult supervision. My son was 4 when he decided he wanted a pet lizard. We came out of the pet store with a snake instead, which I may have encouraged, and now after 9 years later we have 11 of them. Best wishes with your new critter!!

[MedicalAuthor]

Thank you for all the suggestions and the warm welcome!

For the record, I definitely see the python as my responsibility. And I'm excited about having a reptile!

I tried to heed some of the advice here. I tried PetCo (the better store I got the pythons from is a little far and I'll be returning there later in the week for hoppers), HomeDepot, and Target and came out with the following changes/questions

1. Got two new hides. I was hoping PetCo near me had a better selection but, alas.... The water bowl on the tank's right actually may work well because it only has one opening and only the non-water side is hollow so it's pretty small inside. On the left I found in the hamster section. The opening (not shown) is pretty big but the rest would be a snug fit for Viper (officially named by my son).
2. Covered the back and sides. Home Depot didn't have foam core for insulation so I got foam for presentations from target and put a background on it.
3. Petco had a CHE bulb but it said 100W recommended for 40 gallons and 60W for 10-20. My current light is the ZooMed Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp, it's 100W and from what I've seen so far I think it is the right intensity for heat requirements. Is it 1:1, i.e., should I replace with 100W CHE or a 60W?
4. Was gong to pick up a humidity gauge but it wasn't digital and they didn't have digital and I read online they can be inaccurate. So, with cypress mulch, until I get a humidity digital read, about how often should I be misting?
5. I read online to cover the screen top with duct tape to keep the heat in better. Would you all recommend this is my case? If so, should I drop the wattage as with the changes (sides covered, top covered) the temperature may go up significantly? Also, could I use aluminum foil instead and tape it to the top?
6. Yay or nay on adding plants? Real or fake?

[Snagrio]

I use these to read temps and humidity at a glance, placed on opposite ends of the enclosure.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0842L4Q4R...roduct_details
Would also recommend getting a temperature gun as they're quite useful for getting pinpoint accurate readings.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lase...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

As for plants, I don't recommend live. Ball pythons are heavy-bodied snakes that tend to bulldoze through anything so trying to grow anything is likely to end poorly. But by all means get lots of fake foliage, all snakes appreciate cage clutter to conceal themselves with even when out of hides, especially when young.

[Armiyana]

I honestly feel that the 40 watt would be too low. The temps at the bottom of the tank where your little guy is most likely to hang out will still be cold.
Personally for BPs I go the UTH with a thermostat because they don't always feel comfortable basking and the belly heat will help them digest.
Some bulbs will have a graph or infopic with different wattages and heat estimates at different distances. 75 might be better in your case so as not to make TOO hot of a spot. Anything over 92 under the lamp is too hot. Right under the lamp and where the top of the branch is for example will most likely temp at 110 or higher with a temperature gun. This can be the case with a 75 or 100 watt. If the type of bulb your using is a desert style basking bulb that can also make it even hotter because the heat is concentrated more than a regular red bulb.

Personally another win on the UTH side is it keeps your son from moving the bulb and burning himself or something in the house. I've seen grown adults melt plastic tables because they forget how hot the metal will still be when the bulb is off. I've used the same bulbs to heat up frozen thawed rats and mice for meals as well because of the heat.

On the tips above about learning the snake's behavior. Make sure that you and your son never put fingers in front of the hide houses. Especially for young and shy snakes, that will be asking to be snapped at. Either a fear or food response. They're ambush predators by nature so they like when prey wiggles past them. You'll want to carefully lift the hides out of the way from the sides. If the snake seems scared or stressed and you need to pick them up, always reach behind and under with a scoop motion. Sometimes having a small snake hook or a paper plate to gently touch to the neck or hold over them will snap them out of that defensive striking posture to the easier to handle ball posture. As they get older they should get more used to the big things that reach from the sky.

When having some future handling time with his little noodle friend, remember to NEVER BOOP THE SNOOT. BPs are really head shy and that is one of the easiest ways to get snapped at. It's best to gently touch along the upper middle part of the snake. Some are a little shy about having the tail touched. Middle is a good place to be safe.
Also make sure that it's quiet time with the snake. Any flailing hand motions or the like can also agitate them. Sitting and calm is a good way to start. Also obviously keep them away from the face. Some do key in on you staring at them and may strike out of fear.

Personally, l feel like my snakes eating frozen thaw are less likely to be as jumpy during feeding time. I have two exceptions to this and they are large females who seem to have bottomless pits where a stomach should be. But I also agree that FT is safer long term. Sure it's cool for a little bit...but as the snake grows and the size of the rodents grow, you may need to be there with tongs to pull the rodent's face away from the snake while he's constricting. If he does get bit, a good cleanup and some antibiotic treatment should always happen.... and even then it can still become an abscess if you're not careful.

And on the matter of child safety:
remember to always keep some hand sanitizer nearby for after handling or immediately wash hands. Remember that snakes and feeder rodents can carry zoonotic diseases that children can be more susceptible to such as salmonella from both or ringworm or rat bite fever from the rodents.
Yes, they sound scary. No it's usually not that common (unless you're like me....). It's just a good practice to keep so you build good habits for later on as well.

[Homebody]

I tried to heed some of the advice here. I tried PetCo (the better store I got the pythons from is a little far and I'll be returning there later in the week for hoppers), HomeDepot, and Target and came out with the following changes/questions

1. Got two new hides. I was hoping PetCo near me had a better selection but, alas.... The water bowl on the tank's right actually may work well because it only has one opening and only the non-water side is hollow so it's pretty small inside. On the left I found in the hamster section. The opening (not shown) is pretty big but the rest would be a snug fit for Viper (officially named by my son).
2. Covered the back and sides. Home Depot didn't have foam core for insulation so I got foam for presentations from target and put a background on it.
3. Petco had a CHE bulb but it said 100W recommended for 40 gallons and 60W for 10-20. My current light is the ZooMed Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp, it's 100W and from what I've seen so far I think it is the right intensity for heat requirements. Is it 1:1, i.e., should I replace with 100W CHE or a 60W?
4. Was gong to pick up a humidity gauge but it wasn't digital and they didn't have digital and I read online they can be inaccurate. So, with cypress mulch, until I get a humidity digital read, about how often should I be misting?
5. I read online to cover the screen top with duct tape to keep the heat in better. Would you all recommend this is my case? If so, should I drop the wattage as with the changes (sides covered, top covered) the temperature may go up significantly? Also, could I use aluminum foil instead and tape it to the top?

1. Your new hides should be fine.
2. Looks lovely while insulating your enclosure and making your bp feel more secure.
3. I defer to CHE users.
4. Try twice daily (morning and evening).
5. I'd place a piece of cardboard covered in heat tape on the cover opposite the side of your heat lamp. That'll make it easier to uncover it if you need to. If it works well, you can upgrade it to something that looks better like plexiglass or pvc sheet.

[Armiyana]

Unless things have changed in the last 5 or so years...
CHEs may require a different housing. If your dome has a solid back, it won't work. It will overheat and melt the wires/crack the bulb base.

As weird as it sounds, wire cage like fixtures are better because it allows the excess heat to release. Not really something I think a kid should have in the room.