RHP not warming enclosure enough

[Snagrio]

So, I had gotten the thermostat issue figured out with this enclosure I bought, but I've come across another problem. Tried running it overnight two different days with two different thermostats set to almost 100 degrees, and both times the floor of the enclosure directly below the panel didn't get above 78-80. It's a 120 watt Reptile Basics RHP that has to be a decade old minimum if not more (guy I bought it from said nothing's lived in it for 8 years) so I'm not sure if it's just not working as well due to age or if it's simply not strong enough for the enclosure it was installed inside of in the first place. The enclosure itself is 72"x30"36".

As a side note this will be the adult home for my VBB and I'm aware they prefer cooler temps anyway (she's in a QT tub setup atm), but I think barely hovering at 80 is stretching it, plus idk if such temps will remain that way once the months get cooler...

[Homebody]

So, I had gotten the thermostat issue figured out with this enclosure I bought, but I've come across another problem. Tried running it overnight two different days with two different thermostats set to almost 100 degrees, and both times the floor of the enclosure directly below the panel didn't get above 78-80. It's a 120 watt Reptile Basics RHP that has to be a decade old minimum if not more (guy I bought it from said nothing's lived in it for 8 years) so I'm not sure if it's just not working as well due to age or if it's simply not strong enough for the enclosure it was installed inside of in the first place. The enclosure itself is 72"x30"36".

As a side note this will be the adult home for my VBB and I'm aware they prefer cooler temps anyway (she's in a QT tub setup atm), but I think barely hovering at 80 is stretching it, plus idk if such temps will remain that way once the months get cooler...

I don't think that the RHP is too small. It's probably just not working anymore. Before tossing it, I'd run it without a thermostat for a couple days, even a week, straight to see how high you can get it. RHPs can take a while to reach the proper temperatures. If you don't reach your range, then you know that RHP just ain't cutting it. If you do reach your range, then it's just a matter of where to set the thermostat.

[Snagrio]

I don't think that the RHP is too small. It's probably just not working anymore. Before tossing it, I'd run it without a thermostat for a couple days, even a week, straight to see how high you can get it. RHPs can take a while to reach the proper temperatures. If you don't reach your range, then you know that RHP just ain't cutting it. If you do reach your range, then it's just a matter of where to set the thermostat.

With the first test I did run it for a couple days solid. It probably is the RHP just being too old anymore, because the thermostat(s) are definitely leaving it on, and I've noticed the RHP's own light constantly blinking like it's turning on and off after a certain point and not reaching any higher in temperature. For reference, in both instants the thermostats are set to the mid 90's, yet every time I'd check they'd never get past the mid 70's despite indicating that they've never shut the RHP off.

Guess I'll have to order a replacement. Thankfully I'm not too pressed for time since I want to give my VBB time to grow given how young and small she is; don't want to put her in a massive enclosure and unnecessarily stress her out no matter how much furnishing I'd put in it. Plus I've learned my lesson after putting my young corn in a T10 and then constantly struggling to find him afterwards.

[jmcrook]

It's the height of the cage. Hot air rises, cool air falls, and no RHP will ever get the floor to 90* when it's working from 3' above the floor without turning the whole enclosure into an oven. Provide perches and measure temps there.

[Snagrio]

It's the height of the cage. Hot air rises, cool air falls, and no RHP will ever get the floor to 90* when it's working from 3' above the floor without turning the whole enclosure into an oven. Provide perches and measure temps there.

There actually are a couple wooden dowels stretched across the length of it. Checked the temps specifically on those and there's a mere couple degree difference and they're only a foot below the RHP. Comparatively the RHPs in my 15" tall PVCs with my two other snakes are able to comfortably heat to mid 80's to 90. Unless this is a case where because there's just more open air the heat dissipates much faster?

Took some pics as well.




I'm planning on making some modifications anyway, like adding shelves midway up the enclosure so maybe that would help? And perhaps with furnishings and humidity the heat will hold much better too instead of a completely bare setting.

[Gio]

It's the height of the cage. Hot air rises, cool air falls, and no RHP will ever get the floor to 90* when it's working from 3' above the floor without turning the whole enclosure into an oven. Provide perches and measure temps there.

Perches or some type of shelf can assist with temps. The cage is big, and on the tall side. You are best off by making climate zones. The floor at 80 is fine as long as you have an area much closer to the panel that the animal can go to bask.

A cage of that height being heated solely by a panel will either need some floor heat or an area closer to the panel off of the ground that gets warmer. You do NOT want to run the panel wide open or the cage will eventually be too hot and dry.

You can see here that the retic could hang out directly below the panel. 3 perches spanning the width of the cage added another level of climate. As stated, hot air rises and the warmest parts of the cage on the hot or cool side will be higher up.
That panel was probably 5 inches about the highest perch. The cage shown here is 6' wide, 30" deep and 2' tall.

Under this panel in the perch area, the temps could easily hit 100+ degrees. Many times after this snake ate, it would sit directly under the panel. He would also do this about 1 day prior to shedding.

I run all 4 cages here with RHPs. Every cage, including the royal python cage has a perching area.
This is another cage.



Each time I did a new cage build, it would take several days for the panel and all of the decor and substrate to balance out and maintain constant temps. Once things were adjusted, I'd add the animal.

Your cage is big, I recommend you try some different setup options. I have 2 panels here that are a decade old and they are doing the job perfectly. Ideally, once you get the enclosure dialed in, the panel will not have to work too hard to keep the climate steady.

I don't know if it has been mentioned, but the ambient temp of the room the cage is in will also be a factor.

Maybe the panel is having issues, but if it can create and 80 degree floor temp from 3 feet up in a cage that size, I'd wager that 6 inches below the panel will be several degrees warmer.

[Gio]

There actually are a couple wooden dowels stretched across the length of it. Checked the temps specifically on those and there's a mere couple degree difference and they're only a foot below the RHP. Comparatively the RHPs in my 15" tall PVCs with my two other snakes are able to comfortably heat to mid 80's to 90. Unless this is a case where because there's just more open air the heat dissipates much faster?

Took some pics as well.




I'm planning on making some modifications anyway, like adding shelves midway up the enclosure so maybe that would help? And perhaps with furnishings and humidity the heat will hold much better too instead of a completely bare setting.

There isn't anything in the enclosure to retain heat. You have a huge empty space there. You need to add things that retain heat so everything can work in concert.

Those dowels are like toothpicks and they are not going to retain a bunch of heat. You are mostly measuring the air temp because they are so thin.

[Homebody]

The enclosure itself is 72"x30"36".

Problems aside. It's exciting to imagine what this enclosure can become. It's a freaking barn!

[Bogertophis]

Problems aside. It's exciting to imagine what this enclosure can become. It's a freaking barn!

But this is exactly why we try to encourage everyone to fully set up & test their enclosures for at least (!) a week prior to any snake "moving in"- it's so difficult to fix these things later, & very stressful for the snake. Living pets make the worst "impulse-buys"- especially reptiles & amphibians, since they're so dependent on the right captive conditions.

[Gio]

But this is exactly why we try to encourage everyone to fully set up & test their enclosures for at least (!) a week prior to any snake "moving in"- it's so difficult to fix these things later, & very stressful for the snake.

Spot on.

This cage has a lot of potential. I would love something 3 feet tall.

However, the test setup should be the final setup because everything will change when substrate, logs, rocks, water bowls and other decor are added.

You could add a fake rock background (mine are made of molded rubber) not only do they provide some insulation, it is another item that retains heat in the cage. If you are going to keep those thin dowels, consider wrapping fake vines around them the thicker a perch is, the more comfortable a snake will be using it.

I see a large round cutout in the back of the cage that is allowing heat to escape that you may want to address. Opening the whole door to get a temp reading will obviously let a lot of heat out. Is it a single door that drops, a slider or 2 split drop doors?

The main issue here as I see it, is the cage is completely empty, tall and just large in general.

Your ambient room temps are important. The warmer you can keep the room, the easier the stat and panel can heat the cage.

Have you taken a direct reading of the panel itself while it is running?

Time for a little more problem solving on your part if the panel is actually functioning properly.