Heating zilla with 150 che

[ziggy the pig]

I have 150 W CHE with a temperature control over the zilla that he loves being in I had the sensor on top with the outside temperature being about 86 on top of the hide out while inside being about 78 I’m trying the temperature control sensor inside the hide thing about 80° while the top of the hide think about 93
My question is how do you heat this hide to ambient temperature if you have this type of hide out


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[Bogertophis]

Seems like you need to add UTH, doesn't it? Or something else? Because the top (outside) is already reaching a risky temperature (93* may burn your snake if he decides to lay on it) just so you can get the inside to a marginal 80*. It appears the material this hide is made of is too thick to allow a good (safer) transfer of heat. Might be a lot easier to change to more manageable hides. What is the temperature on the actual floor (the substrate)?

Not only that, but if hiking up the temperature of the CHE gets the inside of the hide to only 80*, that means the rest of his enclosure is too cool- it should be a minimum of 78* on "the cool side", while you want about 88* on "the warm side". (I sure wish everyone would test their enclosures for at least a week to make sure these minimums are met, and BEFORE moving in a sensitive creature that requires heat to be & remain healthy, & able to digest well.)*

Is that the ONLY hide? He needs 2 equal hides, one cool (unheated) and one with heat (to the proper range for digestion). Why 2? Because snakes routinely choose a sense of security over the "correct" temperature needed for digestion & health. If he continues with only one hide that offers sub-par temperatures, I don't expect his good health to continue, or his appetite. Sure, he may "like" it & use it- but you're the only one that can make sure his needs are being met so he can live a long & healthy life, with good digestion for growth. Captive snakes rely on US to provide for their needs- they require options.

*BTW, if your current CHE is aimed at the hide, maybe that's the only reason he "loves being in it"- it's the only place that has warmth?

There's a reason many of us use these hides (this or similar ones by other brands): https://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box
It's not because they're "pretty"- it's because they're practical & get the job done. Just saying. First things first- proper heating & feeding is "job #1".

[Homebody]

My question is how do you heat this hide to ambient temperature if you have this type of hide out

It seems to me that you have an ambient heat problem. I hope you don't mind me borrowing this picture from your gallery, but it gives a better impression of you whole set up.

I love the size of this enclosure, but its size makes it tough to heat. I suggest you cover the screen top, as much as you can without blocking the CHE. This will also make the humidity easier to maintain. Insulate the sides too. This will have the added benefit of making your BP feel more secure.

[ziggy the pig]

I knew this custom built terrarium heating would be an issue I have a heating pad with a temperature controller on it of 89 Zilla I doubt I put 100 W che above the high temperature is 89.6 inside one thermometer says 81.7 the temperature controller says 82.4 The black hideout has no CHE or heating pad on it and that temperature is 76.6 last time I had a CHE on top of the other hideout it reached about 100° on top while inside was about 88 he has three hideouts one is a cat litter box I cut an opening to the other is a black one that I mentioned he hasn’t eaten in about three months I have been offering


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[ziggy the pig]

I do not mind you borrowing the picture that’s another thing I am struggling with is the humidity I have a plastic pitcher that holds about 9 1/2 cups and I’m still trying to figure out how much water to add to get the right humidity depending on shutting versus non-shedding


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[Bogertophis]

May I just suggest that despite being a beautiful enclosure, it's simply the wrong one for this snake. Your snake isn't eating- & assuming you want him to live, that must change. For him to want to eat, you have to provide the right conditions- enough heat & humidity & a feeling of safety. BTW, this enclosure also has no privacy other than the hides. It's not working & IMO, it's not fixable for this kind of snake. With all that height, it would be great for something else, like a rat snake, but you've got a ball python.

Also looks like it's on the floor, is that correct? Floors are drafty & colder than higher up in any room. A ball python's home should not be on the floor.

Time to start over while your snake is still healthy (< I'm assuming & hoping). And it's not fair to the snake to keep modifying & experimenting with the enclosure while he's trying to live in it- that's very stressful for him & he cannot wait forever without eating. Just because you "offered" food & he didn't eat, doesn't make it HIS fault- it's yours, since he cannot change what he's kept in- only you can do that.

[ziggy the pig]

He was in a smaller enclosure he was rubbing his head on hideout first sign of stress it has more hide out for him to choose from my understanding from at least two other people one of them a zoologist they are ground dwellers as in they search for their hides on the ground instead of in the treetops like some of the other snakes we both agree we both love snakes


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[Armiyana]

What is the bottom of the enclosure made of? Another concern long term is if it is not properly sealed wood, you will also have the humidity causing rot and mold. Not just the lack of belly heat.

Looking at the size of the cat box and the snake, there's a chance he may not be eating because that's just what males sometimes do this time of year... But long-term Bogertophis is right. The heat and hides need work if you're hoping to get him ready to eat again after.

At the very least, once the heat is worked out, you can add a few broad leaf fake plants or something to offer him more cover as he moves from place to place. Also, humans are already scary enough without the vibrations of our feet as we walk past. Yes they are ground dwellers, but what we mean is the habitat itself should be off the floor, not the hides for your snake.
The overall height of the habitat is just too much for him since he's not a climber or basking species. That's also adding to your heating issues with the empty space

[ziggy the pig]

I have some fake vines I’m having issues with at sticking since he is reaching for the screen I’m considering other wall decorations for his terrarium although it will take time I think I got the heating pad area down it’s just the other side with the CHE and the other Hyde that I’m concerned about


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[Bogertophis]

He was in a smaller enclosure he was rubbing his head on hideout first sign of stress it has more hide out for him to choose from my understanding from at least two other people one of them a zoologist they are ground dwellers as in they search for their hides on the ground instead of in the treetops like some of the other snakes we both agree we both love snakes


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His enclosure would be much easier to heat if it wasn't so tall- his hides DO belong on the floor of his enclosure- yes, BPs are ground dwellers.

What I said & meant was that his entire enclosure appears to be on the floor (sitting on carpet?) and floors are normally drafty & cooler than if the enclosure is on a cabinet sitting ABOVE floor level. That's not helping you keep his enclosure at the right temperatures, no matter if it's winter or summer. Cool air in your room sinks to the floor year-round, making this already over-sized (& TOO TALL) enclosure that much harder to heat.

And he still has next to no privacy other than his hides. BPs are shy snakes. Easy to see why he's not eating.

What is the actual temperature on HIS floor, inside enclosure?