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  1. #11
    BPnet Senior Member
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    Looking at the Amazon reviews for the 6000 it seems really hit or miss. I wouldn't personally trust anything rated that poorly.

    If you are hooking it up to a backup thermostat you might be okay? But I say this as someone incubating ball python and Leo eggs in a 48qt cooler with heat tape wrapped around the inside and a thermostat. Lol.

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  3. #12
    BPnet Veteran Erie_herps's Avatar
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    If you want an inexpensive incubator you can make one yourself. To make one you can use a styrofoam cooler, heat tape, and a thermostat (you can get a decent Inkbird one for about $30) or a rheostat. I've been planning to build one but haven't needed to yet.
    Also, the one I mentioned earlier was about $50 and I've had good experiences with it. I haven't used it enough to claim it's a good incubator, but the person I got it from said they had hatched hundreds of leos in it and it worked great.
    Last edited by Erie_herps; 03-12-2022 at 10:54 PM.

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  5. #13
    Registered User Lizrd_boy's Avatar
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    Re: Leopard gecko breeding questions

    I actually was on another forum and apparently someone on there had trouble with the 6000... he woke up at 3 am to a beeping sound and his incubator reset from 89* F to 40* F. He caught it in time and was able to save the eggs (all but one), but I don't want anything like that to happen.

    I'm trying to make myself an incubator. technically Lenetta could lay anytime between today and next wednesday, but the eggs (actually theres only 1) seem a little too small to be ready quite yet, in my humble opinion. If she lays before I have the incubator ready, I'll just use the Hova-Bator until it's ready.

    Has anyone had any experience with the Inkbird temp control thermostat ITC1000? Here's a link to it on Amazon:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Here is the incubator I'm trying to make. I'm also adding in a small CPU fan, and getting rid of the light kit.

    https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...oler-incubator

    Hopefully it will work... I don't want her first clutch to be infertile but if it is it will at least buy me some time.
    Last edited by Lizrd_boy; 03-16-2022 at 05:14 PM.
    My name is Josiah, proud owner of Lenetta and Lea the leopard geckos and Bluebelly the fence lizard.

  6. #14
    BPnet Veteran Malum Argenteum's Avatar
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    Broken record warning: I would (and did, and do) use a Herpstat. Here's why, for incubators. (A) they are dimming thermostats, which means they're not just on or off, they ramp up power until temp is reached, and then apply a percentage of the power to hold the temp there. The variance in my incubator run by a Herpstat is 0.3F -- set at 80.5F, it holds from 80.4 to 80.6. Is that necessary? I don't know, but I do know that the huge swings a Hovabator is prone to aren't great (daily cycles in temp have been asserted to be beneficial to incubating eggs -- that's a more European-based technique that may or may not be practiced anymore, I don't know -- but a night drop is different than random and frequent variance).

    This is related to reason (B): Herpstats (well, the H4, anyway) have a maximum power feature, where you can set the stat to only apply up to a max percentage of power to the heating element. This is very important in the overpowered Hovabators, since a simple on/off stat will run full power up to the set temp, and then as the heating element cools after power is cut it will continue the upward arc of temperature, maxing out a couple degrees above the setpoint. Limiting power to, say, 40% or 50% reduces that temp overshoot (better designs, like those that use heat tape, don't have a big problem with this since heat tape doesn't retain heat the way those rigid resistive elements do).

    The H4 has four channels, so the others can be used for other heating/cooling/lighting/humidity devices.

    There's also the alarm that'll let you know when the temp isn't rising when the heat is on, as when the incubator has been left open -- another useful feature.

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  8. #15
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    Re: Leopard gecko breeding questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Malum Argenteum View Post
    Broken record warning: I would (and did, and do) use a Herpstat. Here's why, for incubators. (A) they are dimming thermostats, which means they're not just on or off, they ramp up power until temp is reached, and then apply a percentage of the power to hold the temp there. The variance in my incubator run by a Herpstat is 0.3F -- set at 80.5F, it holds from 80.4 to 80.6. Is that necessary? I don't know, but I do know that the huge swings a Hovabator is prone to aren't great (daily cycles in temp have been asserted to be beneficial to incubating eggs -- that's a more European-based technique that may or may not be practiced anymore, I don't know -- but a night drop is different than random and frequent variance).

    This is related to reason (B): Herpstats (well, the H4, anyway) have a maximum power feature, where you can set the stat to only apply up to a max percentage of power to the heating element. This is very important in the overpowered Hovabators, since a simple on/off stat will run full power up to the set temp, and then as the heating element cools after power is cut it will continue the upward arc of temperature, maxing out a couple degrees above the setpoint. Limiting power to, say, 40% or 50% reduces that temp overshoot (better designs, like those that use heat tape, don't have a big problem with this since heat tape doesn't retain heat the way those rigid resistive elements do).

    The H4 has four channels, so the others can be used for other heating/cooling/lighting/humidity devices.

    There's also the alarm that'll let you know when the temp isn't rising when the heat is on, as when the incubator has been left open -- another useful feature.
    That's ^ ^ ^ a great explanation & awfully convincing!
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
    Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)

  9. #16
    BPnet Veteran Malum Argenteum's Avatar
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    Re: Leopard gecko breeding questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Bogertophis View Post
    That's ^ ^ ^ a great explanation & awfully convincing!
    Now if the kickbacks would start rolling in, that'd be great.

  10. #17
    Registered User Lizrd_boy's Avatar
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    Re: Leopard gecko breeding questions

    Yeah... I would go with a Herpstat too, but I literally spent everything I had to spend on this for the supplies for the incubator, and the Herpstat is like $200 on the cheapest place I found it (eBay). And I could only afford the $18 Inkbird.

    And in case your wondering why I put the geckos together if I couldn't afford the the top stuff for the incubator, I thought the Hova-Bator would be fine until I found out otherwise...
    My name is Josiah, proud owner of Lenetta and Lea the leopard geckos and Bluebelly the fence lizard.

  11. #18
    BPnet Veteran Malum Argenteum's Avatar
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    Re: Leopard gecko breeding questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Lizrd_boy View Post
    And in case your wondering why I put the geckos together if I couldn't afford the the top stuff for the incubator, I thought the Hova-Bator would be fine until I found out otherwise...
    Keep in mind that my first comment on this, and one I still stand behind, was "So, if you don't get good results, consider that the incubator may be contributing." Lots of leos have been hatched from Hovabators. A kind of cynical way to look at it is that there about a dozen things that can go wrong, and only one of those is the performance of the incubator.

    The way I amassed a ridiculous room full of equipment and herps started with incubating leo eggs in a Hovabator (well, I had three going usually). Then sold the offspring, bought more leos, sold more offspring, bought more enclosures, sold more offspring, bought snakes, bought a big fancy incubator.... and so on. It all financed itself (well....mostly...).

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    Re: Leopard gecko breeding questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Malum Argenteum View Post
    Now if the kickbacks would start rolling in, that'd be great.
    Sometimes a good deed just has to be its own reward- too bad.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
    Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)

  14. #20
    Registered User Lizrd_boy's Avatar
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    Re: Leopard gecko breeding questions

    Okay, so I got everything I needed for the incubator, and set it up. The accu-rite thermometer I got shows highest temps and lowest temps over the past 24 hours so calibration will be pretty simple.

    I just had a couple questions... First, when the female has eggsdeveloping inside her, do they both grow at the same time or is it more one and then the other? Lenetta definately has at least one egg which is getting pretty big, but there is a smaller round mass the size of an ovulation but whiter. Is that another egg or is it uncommon for the eggs to develop at different times?

    Also, can someone please post pictures of gravid geckos at different stages of egg-development? I'd like to see what it normally looks like.

    Last, how long after copulation will leopards lay? I though it was 16-22 days, but a friend of mine (he breeds ball pyhons and rodents, but his leopards "accidentally" laid eggs. He never got them to hatch, but still... he got further than I have!) said it can take up to a month??? He didn't know when his geckos mated so he doesn't know how long it was for him. Also a website I saw said it can take 2-5 weeks?
    My name is Josiah, proud owner of Lenetta and Lea the leopard geckos and Bluebelly the fence lizard.

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