Aggresive feeder strikes coils but doesnt eat the rat help!

[spodermon]

I've had this 2 year old girl for about 3 months and she has always eaten really well. The past few weeks she has been getting really aggressive when feeding, which is good, not complaining since I'm trying to breed her, BUT the last few times feeding she would take the rat but won't eat it?? And then, since she's such an aggressive feeder, if I try to get the rat to reheat, she will target my hand with a "I'm gonna murder u and eat your hand" look on her face so I just throw the rat away the next day when she's calmed down lol

I was watching her earlier and what happens is she strikes at the side of the rat, tries to eat it but fails because she starts eating from the side, ignores it, and starts looking around for (another rat or something) and looking at me thinking I'm food. Sometimes she would get startled when coiling because of the noise of me trying to close the enclosure and she then focuses on me instead of trying to eat the rat.

She often misses the f/t as well, striking 3-4 times before getting it even when the rat is usually warm almost hot, a few times she almost struck my knee

So frustrating, any tips? She scares me because she's about 1300gr and so feisty when she smells food lol

It's my first time breeding.

[Homebody]

BUT the last few times feeding she would take the rat but won't eat it??

A ball python refusing a few meals during the winter is not ordinarily a cause for concern. They do that. Have a look at the site's caresheet. Reconcile any disparities with your husbandry, and your snake should be fine.

[Bogertophis]

Snakes are at risk from OTHER predators when they're busy eating- so instinctively BPs are ambush-predators that normally feed at night (dim light or in the dark), & usually from a place of safety- not out in the "open", even in their homes. They usually feel safer when offered prey at night when they're peeking out of their hides. Is this what you're doing???

Are you using feeding tongs? I suggest you do, because yes, your hands (or rather their heat signature) is a distraction because not only are they moving, but they're warm too. Yum! Maybe...?

Some snakes are very EASILY distracted when eating- I have a corn snake that once she grabs her f/t mouse, I have to stand STILL & wait until she gets it partway in, otherwise she drops it to chase MY MOTION! Talk about "optimism", lol. But just remember, snakes don't identify things (or us) using vision. They see motion & either fear it as a potential predator, or try to eat it, hoping it's prey. So learn to be more of a ninja when you feed this snake- "be the background". Some snakes have a very poor attention span.

I assume you're talking about dead prey, not live? How are you thawing it & warming it? It sounds like the prey may not be warm enough when first offered, & since they cool off quickly, that's why she's looking at you instead.

Other issues may also result in food refusals- such as seasonally lower temperatures- what are the temps. in her enclosure? (lowest & highest) What kind of hides. Pics of your set-up might help too.

Have you changed the type of prey or increased the size lately? How often do you feed her? (Any chance you're over-feeding her? or just offering more than she wants?)

Again though- BUY some LONG feeding tongs, & keep your yummy hands out of range, lol. Then you can remove the prey & quickly re-heat it, instead of discarding it the next day-

Snakes sometimes 'want to eat' but refuse because they sense cooler temperatures & don't want to chance eating. (getting stuck with undigestible food in their stomach can kill them). They also refuse when they sense a shed cycle coming, but usually that doesn't involve more than one meal being refused, unless you're trying to feed her too often.

[spodermon]

A ball python refusing a few meals during the winter is not ordinarily a cause for concern. They do that. Have a look at the site's caresheet. Reconcile any disparities with your husbandry, and your snake should be fine.

Unfortunately, we don't have winters where I live but it is the rainy season tho. And husbandry is all good I've had bps for a few years

[spodermon]

Snakes are at risk from OTHER predators when they're busy eating- so instinctively BPs are ambush-predators that normally feed at night (dim light or in the dark), & usually from a place of safety- not out in the "open", even in their homes. They usually feel safer when offered prey at night when they're peeking out of their hides. Is this what you're doing???

Are you using feeding tongs? I suggest you do, because yes, your hands (or rather their heat signature) is a distraction because not only are they moving, but they're warm too. Yum! Maybe...?

Some snakes are very EASILY distracted when eating- I have a corn snake that once she grabs her f/t mouse, I have to stand STILL & wait until she gets it partway in, otherwise she drops it to chase MY MOTION! Talk about "optimism", lol. But just remember, snakes don't identify things (or us) using vision. They see motion & either fear it as a potential predator, or try to eat it, hoping it's prey. So learn to be more of a ninja when you feed this snake- "be the background". Some snakes have a very poor attention span.

I assume you're talking about dead prey, not live? How are you thawing it & warming it? It sounds like the prey may not be warm enough when first offered, & since they cool off quickly, that's why she's looking at you instead.

Other issues may also result in food refusals- such as seasonally lower temperatures- what are the temps. in her enclosure? (lowest & highest) What kind of hides. Pics of your set-up might help too.

Have you changed the type of prey or increased the size lately? How often do you feed her?

Again though- BUY some LONG feeding tongs, & keep your yummy hands out of range, lol. Then you can remove the prey & quickly re-heat it, instead of discarding it the next day-

Thanks for the tips, and yeah I'll try that next time, keeping still until she eats, and maybe just close her tub lid later when she's almost done

I give her small/medium rats usually. Do you think she might be intimidated by the larger rat? If so, wouldn't she avoid striking and coiling?

And, I DO have long thongs but she always closes in and moves real fast towards my hand when I try to take the uneaten rat it scares the heelll outta me lolol

[Homebody]

I was watching her earlier and what happens is she strikes at the side of the rat, tries to eat it but fails because she starts eating from the side, ignores it, and starts looking around for (another rat or something) and looking at me thinking I'm food. Sometimes she would get startled when coiling because of the noise of me trying to close the enclosure and she then focuses on me instead of trying to eat the rat.

You could try drop feeding. It should keep your bp from being startled or distracted.

[Bogertophis]

Thanks for the tips, and yeah I'll try that next time, keeping still until she eats, and maybe just close her tub lid later when she's almost done

I give her small/medium rats usually. Do you think she might be intimidated by the larger rat? If so, wouldn't she avoid striking and coiling?

And, I DO have long thongs but she always move real fast towards my hand when I try to take the uneaten rat it scares the heelll outta me lolol

Yes, keep still & be patient. And wait to close the top also. It's distracting to some snakes.

Larger rat- intimidation (or too large)- yes! Very possible. Try offering a small one, I bet she eats it! Snakes aren't visual- she doesn't "know" it's so big until she wraps it. It FEELS wrong.

This could also be related to the season- snakes can digest smaller rats much faster than large ones- again, they instinctively don't want to get stuck with undigestible food in their gut in cold weather.

Hands & tongs- try not to be so appetizing! I have 18" & 24" feeding tongs, but I rarely use the 24" ones- they feel too awkward, & for many years I've fed everything from large (fast!) rat snakes (7'+), a 7 1/2'+ BCI, & adult rattlesnakes with these tongs. Oh, & I still have all my fingers! (no feeding bites ever) I mostly keep my 24" tongs for picking up things that fall behind my desk, lol.

I guess you could put a leather glove on your hand to help hide your heat signature though, if you feel the need. Or hold an ice cube for a few minutes first? Or put your glove in the freezer...

[Andiamo]

I've had this 2 year old girl for about 3 months and she has always eaten really well. The past few weeks she has been getting really aggressive when feeding, which is good, not complaining since I'm trying to breed her, BUT the last few times feeding she would take the rat but won't eat it?? And then, since she's such an aggressive feeder, if I try to get the rat to reheat, she will target my hand with a "I'm gonna murder u and eat your hand" look on her face so I just throw the rat away the next day when she's calmed down lol
.

When my BP was younger, he'd eat with me hovering right over him....now I let him take it, and I leave the room. He likes his privacy.

there was one instance where I came back in the room to see he had not eaten the rat, but I placed it right by the entrance of his hide (head first) and he took it down shortly after.

I definitely think it's odd that your snake is striking, coiling, but not eating...possible the head of the rat is not as warm as the other part of the body (I always warm my rats with their heads facing down, b/c if I don't the butt will be slightly warmer). Or your snake just needs a bit more privacy.

[Bogertophis]

Also- if your snake refuses a meal- wait at least another week or two before you offer again. If you offer too often, snakes just get stressed & refuse anyway.

[spodermon]

Yes, keep still & be patient. And wait to close the top also. It's distracting to some snakes.

Larger rat- intimidation (or too large)- yes! Very possible. Try offering a small one, I bet she eats it! Snakes aren't visual- she doesn't "know" it's so big until she wraps it. It FEELS wrong.

This could also be related to the season- snakes can digest smaller rats much faster than large ones- again, they instinctively don't want to get stuck with undigestible food in their gut in cold weather.

Hands & tongs- try not to be so appetizing! I have 18" & 24" feeding tongs, but I rarely use the 24" ones- they feel too awkward, & for many years I've fed everything from large (fast!) rat snakes (7'+), a 7 1/2'+ BCI, & adult rattlesnakes with these tongs. Oh, & I still have all my fingers! (no feeding bites ever) I mostly keep my 24" tongs for picking up things that fall behind my desk, lol.

I guess you could put a leather glove on your hand to help hide your heat signature though, if you feel the need. Or hold an ice cube for a few minutes first? Or put your glove in the freezer...

Huh that's interesting, didn't really think about that part about not using their sight and feeling instead.

Btw, if you feed do you hold the rat by it's tail or the butt? I've heard people saying hold by the butt but I'm worried they'll strike the tongs and hurt themselves, esp. this girl she would strike all over the place towards me, the sides of the tub sometimes the water bowl I use for heating the ratspretty crazy, my other bps dont do this at all lol. Y'know what next week I'll try heating the rat really well, this might be why, I'm hoping it is