HVAC / Exo Terra / CHE 150 watt question

[Armiyana]

If you use a dome with a CHE, it MUST be the kind rated for that high heat output- and it WILL have a ceramic fixture inside to hold the bulb, NEVER a plastic one that the bulb screws into. The plastic ones will melt.
For safety, it also helps to use a large dome- not the small ones, & even the medium size ones might be an issue. Safety first, please everyone.

You are correct in part. The dome must have the holes near the base to be used with a CHE. That said I never trusted it and only used the wire version.

I mostly remember it being an issue with the smaller domes, even with the ceramic fixture. But that was when I worked retail so who knows what CHE they dropped in there.
It probably was the older style though without the hole in the base. I remember them as having that solid sleek look.

I haven't used bulbs myself because I have nocturnals who love belly heat and nosey cats who love to knock things off cagetops. lol.
Good to know for the future!

[Malum Argenteum]

I don't use Exos for snakes and haven't used CHEs in years, but: would it be prudent to switch to a RHP mounted inside the Exo? A far more permanent and effective fix for the top (cut piece of tempered glass and a screen insert to replace the stock lid, perhaps, or at least tempered glass inserts to sit on the stock screen top) could be done, and RHPs are far safer than CHEs. I've not done such a mod with a heating source involved, though.

If the CHE continues to be used, I'd strongly recommend a Herpstat to run it, set to sound alarm and cut power if the probe detects anything near ambient temps (signaling that the CHE has been knocked off the Exo).

[KMG]

I had a lamp stand, but it wasn’t getting nearly hot enough inside with the distance between. I also was losing a lot of humidity.

I also had a 100 Watt before this, but it wasn’t getting hot enough inside either.

I find that very hard to believe. My CHEs were several inches above the mesh and gave me the proper hot spot for my Ball, and a good ambient temp. That was turned down a bit with a dimmer too.

What are you taking temperatures with?

An unregulated 150w CHE sitting on the top should be making one heck of a hot spot directly under it.....unless this is a very tall tank.

As for the humidity that is what they do. All I did to combat it was keep moist moss in my hides making them humid hides.

[KMG]

[/COLOR]I mostly remember it being an issue with the smaller domes, even with the ceramic fixture. But that was when I worked retail so who knows what CHE they dropped in there.
It probably was the older style though without the hole in the base. I remember them as having that solid sleek look.

I haven't used bulbs myself because I have nocturnals who love belly heat and nosey cats who love to knock things off cagetops. lol.
Good to know for the future!

From my understanding the issue was the CHE creates so much heat that it needed an escape route. The dome without the holes held the heat it and cooked the CHE and fixture base.

I can not say for sure that is true but can say that using the wire fixtures designed for them I never had one die.

[Armiyana]

I don't use Exos for snakes and haven't used CHEs in years, but: would it be prudent to switch to a RHP mounted inside the Exo?.

If op goes the changing sources route, Exos can be great for UTH pads too because they have the raised bottom. Don't need to worry about the UTH airflow and won't pinch the thermostat probe wire.
I used an old exo for my oldest BP for a couple of years.

[Cait18]

I originally had an UTH mat, but it wasn’t coming close to warming up inside the tank because it wasnt’ getting enough heat through the glass and substrate. As to someone else’s question, the tank is 18” tall. I have the CHE on a thermostat and i have two thermometers inside and a temperature gun that I use often to get temps, so I know what temps it was creating before with the lamp stand and it was getting to low 80s max on the hot side.
I have attached another photo for reference from POV from the inside of the tank to see - maybe this pic will help.
Thanks again every one - appreciate all the tips and insight since I am a new BP owner just trying to sort out the setup.
I’d love to keep it now how it is as long as it’s safe, since I already spent a lot of time and trial and error with different setups.

Thanks!



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[Bogertophis]

From my understanding the issue was the CHE creates so much heat that it needed an escape route. The dome without the holes held the heat it and cooked the CHE and fixture base.

I can not say for sure that is true but can say that using the wire fixtures designed for them I never had one die.

I'm glad you mentioned they make wire fixtures for CHEs- I don't use CHEs anyway, but it sounds like a good (safer) idea for such high wattage. I've never seen any dome fixtures without vent holes, but surely they have their limits so as not to be frying the wires.

[KMG]

I'm glad you mentioned they make wire fixtures for CHEs- I don't use CHEs anyway, but it sounds like a good (safer) idea for such high wattage. I've never seen any dome fixtures without vent holes, but surely they have their limits so as not to be frying the wires.

I think most domes from pet stores will have the holes but if you buy some heat lamps from a hardware store they probably won't.

[KMG]

I originally had an UTH mat, but it wasn’t coming close to warming up inside the tank because it wasnt’ getting enough heat through the glass and substrate. As to someone else’s question, the tank is 18” tall. I have the CHE on a thermostat and i have two thermometers inside and a temperature gun that I use often to get temps, so I know what temps it was creating before with the lamp stand and it was getting to low 80s max on the hot side.
I have attached another photo for reference from POV from the inside of the tank to see - maybe this pic will help.
Thanks again every one - appreciate all the tips and insight since I am a new BP owner just trying to sort out the setup.
I’d love to keep it now how it is as long as it’s safe, since I already spent a lot of time and trial and error with different setups.

Thanks!



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An UTH is not meant to warm the tank. They are for the hotspot and do very little to heat the rest of the cage.....as you found out.

How long have you been using the CHE like this to test it? Is the snake it there? A CHE takes a good while to level out and show you what it will really gives you.

An issue when you have to move the heat fixture from the screen lid is you take the heat away from the cage whenever you enter it by removing the lid. This was a big reason I used the stands. It let me leave the CHE in place so the heat is still pumping into the tank instead of cooling down. This made my temp checks more accurate by reducing cooling to the hotspot I was creating.

Also not having to move the hot fixture is much safer and keeps a person from the dangers of placing the heated CHE to something that can melt and catch fire. A CHE gets BLAZING HOT.

What I did to help my tank in my cold apartment was cover the back and sides with thick art paper. This kept more heat it and raised my temps by itself. Then I also made a cardboard cutout for the screen section of the lid. I left a window for the heat from the CHE to pass through and covered it with foil. This kept even more heat it and helped keep some humidity.

[Bogertophis]

I think most domes from pet stores will have the holes but if you buy some heat lamps from a hardware store they probably won't.

I haven't seen them in a hardware store (never looked for them there) but the ones I've seen in feed stores definitely do have holes- ppl use them to warm chicks etc.