Ball python eggs not sure if fertile?

[ontariosnakelover]

Hey guys. I was breeding my 2 yellow bellies for a bit this year watching watching lock and everything was going great . Then my girl Rhea went through an ovulation period and all the good stuff until she laid her first time clutch of a monstrous 7 eggs with zero sluggers that I know of. Perfect marshmallows. I don't have the greatest equipment but the eggs are incubating in a container of vermiculite with good humidity and such. But my temp is probably a tad lower than most use as it's around 86 F. Today is day 55 and last night I checked them and candled them and I still see big thick red veins and one of them I saw movement but the others I'm not sure . There is dark shadows and such but I didn't want to jostle the eggs much. Maybe the temps I'm using mean it will take longer for development or maybe I'm hoping for something that's not there? Just wanna hear opinions

[Armiyana]

Newbie BP breeder, but had been breeding leopard geckos in the past...

If there were big veins then just give them some more time.
When they start to deflate and "sweat" you're getting close!
My first BP clutch was out of the eggs on day 61.

they should start to pip any time now. If one pips, you could cut the others just in case and see what's up. If they don't pip by day 60 or if the eggs start to change colors or smell wrong, I would cut and check on the little guys.

[Bogertophis]

If your temps are (or were) a bit low, be patient- they can take longer & still be fine.

[Armiyana]

I did some quick poking around some other threads here with 86 degree temps. There were reports of them not pipping til day 60/61 and one where they popped on day 68.

Bogertophis is right about them just needing a bit longer. As long as they stay looking good stay strong!

[ontariosnakelover]

Allright. Thanks for the encouragement guys and girls. I know at least one of them has something alive in then by the non liquid movement I saw. And some forums say that not all clutched will deflate eggs so that also makes me feel better. I just want healthy babies lol

[Armiyana]

I'll be crossing my fingers for a good number of Ivory babies! The lighter colored babies may just be a bit harder to candle.

[nikkubus]

Yep, big veins means they are fertile and still good, just be patient. 86F can take a lot longer, it wouldn't at all shock me if they went 70+ days.

[Erie_herps]

Since you're using lower temperatures it will take a little longer. Just be patient. Keep incubating them and try not to disturb them unless you know that they aren't going to hatch.
Incubate Until There's No Debate
Personally once they hatch I would let them pip on their own instead of cutting. I see more problems than benefits from cutting and personally I don't think snakes that struggle to hatch on their own should be bred.
Hopefully all of the eggs hatch and you get good odds.

[Snow Balls]

Any reason on why you incubated your temps so low? Just curious


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[sp0420]

Not an expert by any means but all three clutches incubated at 89 degrees started to pip at day 60-61 exactly for me like clockwork. I also agree with not cutting I wasn't confident enough so I let them pip and come out on their own. Interesting fact at narbc this year I was talking to one breeder and he incubates at 86 degrees said usually takes around 70 days if I remember correctly. His theory was because of the morphs he breeds it gives them longer time to develop. Idk if it's true or not but it was an interesting thought. I wouldn't be surprised if this far along you see nothing when candling probably pretty developed by now. Keep an eye on the eggs deflating and the humidity to build fast in the egg box they won't be much longer once that starts to happen at least with the limited experience I have. Gl and keep us posted.