3x2x2 Modification for Antaresia

[Homebody]

Below for your review and comment is my plan to modify my ball python enclosure for a children's python. This is my current enclosure:


It's a 3x2x2 plywood enclosure. I divided it in two to give my ball the option of hiding in a darkened tub or exploring in a terrarium. The tub is a cement mixing tub I got from Lowe's. My ball could move freely between the two through a triangular notch I cut into the divider. The tub is about 8 inches tall. The terrarium is about 14.5 inches tall. The other 1.5 inches was taken by the thickness of the plywood. Here are the enclosure's guts:


The terrarium is heated by an 80 watt VE radiant heat panel. This provides heat for a basking spot. The tub is heated by heat tape. This keeps the cool side from getting too cool. Both are regulated using Jump Start thermostats.

I plan to replace the plywood divider with a melamine one. I want something more stain and odor resistant. I'll use a whole saw to cut a circular hole in the divider. I'm concerned that the notch I current have cut in the edge of the current divider will give the smaller children's python access to the edge of the tub that he may use to escape. I plan to replace the aluminum tracks that hold the divider in place with aluminum angles. Sliding the 1/2 inch divider through the 1/2 inch tracts was difficult. Particularly, when the recently washed divider was swollen with water. Lastly, to secure the sliding glass front, I'll add an additional aluminum angle to block access to the bottom of the glass and vinyl tubing filled with silicone sealant to close the gap at the top of the glass. This will have the additional benefit of giving me something to grab onto when I'm lifting the glass out.

As I'm writing this, I realize that this may be difficult for you to picture, so feel free to ask me to explain further, and thanks, in advance, for your time and consideration.

[Hugsplox]

I don't think this looks bad at all. I will say, and take this with a grain of salt, those LEDs might be a tad much. The way my windows are in my reptile room allow me to skip enclosure lighting. My crew gets just natural light all day so like I said, take that with a grain of salt you may be fine.

Just remember that if you get a hatchling, it's going to be tiny. Like I was surpised how small mine was when I brought him home and even now he's barely as big around as my index finger. I know you already have a plan to fill in all those little spaces, but just be sure to double check them because these guys are small and stupid strong for their size. The only other thing I would suggest if you're going to try to put one directly into this, is clutter it up really really well so it'll feel secure. I started my guy off in a 10 gallon and he did really well, but have since moved him into a 20 gallon long and I don't see him outgrowing it anytime soon. To be honest though, I like your set up and might look into building one myself when the time comes for an upgrade.

[Homebody]

The LEDs provide a wide range of lighting options. From bright white, pictured here, to dark red. I use the bright white to clean. Dark red to check on my snake at night. Mostly, I just leave them off. The room gets a lot of natural light.

My plan is to not leave any gaps that even a tiny snake can conceivably fit through. Then, I'll watch him like a hawk because I'm aware that snakes often do inconceivable things.

At this point, I don't know what I'm getting so I'm trying to modify the enclosure so that it's suitable for anything from a hatchling to an adult. Once I know, then I'll post another thread seeking advice on the furnishings, but I expect it to include a lot of clutter.

[Bogertophis]

Please reassure me that the plywood has been water-proofed & thoroughly sealed? I do like the "double-decker" design- many snakes love that option, and it's more like what they'd experience in the great outdoors. Just like a house with a relatively small "foot-print", multiple stories greatly increase the living space (square footage).

[Homebody]

Please reassure me that the plywood has been water-proofed & thoroughly sealed? I do like the "double-decker" design- many snakes love that option, and it's more like what they'd experience in the great outdoors. Just like a house with a relatively small "foot-print", multiple stories greatly increase the living space (square footage).

I'm sorry to say that it is neither waterproofed nor sealed. Please enlighten me as to their importance.

[Bogertophis]

I'm sorry to say that it is neither waterproofed nor sealed. Please enlighten me as to their importance.

Wood is porous & absorbs all kinds of bacteria, mold, etc. Basically you're exposing the next occupant to anything that the previous one had, plus it allows new pathogens to build up. It's really not sanitary unless well-coated with something non-toxic so it can no longer absorb everything, including fecal material.

Also, plywood off-gases toxic fumes, which are far more dangerous to a small animal that's breathing them all the time. Plywood is made in layers that are bonded together for strength- it's very useful for furniture & buildings- which at least are open to the air- but it's best to minimize exposure whenever you can- it's the adhesives/glues bonding the layers that are the chemical issue. Used to be that plywood off-gassed a fair amount of formaldehyde but they're finally cracking down on that IF it was made in the U.S. after 2018, but that's not saying there aren't OTHER things used that may be harmful to small creatures kept inside. Also, it apparently still off-gasses SOME formaldehyde, because the law only says it can't be excessive (ie. over a certain amount) and believe me, they didn't test it for snake safety. They're only worried about human safety, & we're much bigger & better able to withstand such things- plus, we're not living in boxes made of uncoated plywood with minimal ventilation. The regulations relate to safety for how it's typically used.

Plywood splinters are another concern. I've gotten my share but your snake can't complain to you, much less remove them or treat their own wounds.

[Bogertophis]

BTW, nearly all furniture finishing products (stains & coatings) are toxic to snakes, but there ARE some safe ones that are safe once fully dry. You want "NO VOC"- read all products carefully. (VOC = volatile organic compounds, ie. volatile means it's going to be off-gassing so you or your pets will be breathing it for a long time. Okay?) I've used a pet-safe clear waterproofing product before, but don't recall the brand now, it's been many years. (Others here have also.) It's best to let coated wood cabinets dry & air out for as long as possible, even when it's says "NO voc", just to be on the safe side. Glass is just so much simpler... But in the past, I've both stained & finished my own furniture & modified wood cabinets for some of my snakes too, just not with the same stuff!

[Homebody]

It's held together with screws, so it shouldn't be too difficult to disassemble and treat. Curing will be a problem because I live in an apartment and I don't have an outdoor space, but I'll guess I'll figure out something.

[Bogertophis]

Not even a patio?

[Homebody]

Not even a patio?

No patio, no deck, no lawn, no garage, no utility room, no basement, no attic. All the work has to be done in my living/dining room. I might be able to get away with treating the wood in my local park and letting it cure there for a few hours.