Hatchling Force feeding… do I keep stepping in?

[Moreptile]

I had a clutch hatch early August and got 4 of 5 eating live hoppers. One refused everything i tried. Last week I stepped in and force feed a rat pinky. Today a week later I offered a FT rat fuzzy and she didn’t even tongue flick, so i offered a live hopper and nothing.
Do I offer a live in a week? Do i just continue to force feed til she decided to take it on her own? What would yall do?


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[Bogertophis]

I had a clutch hatch early August and got 4 of 5 eating live hoppers. One refused everything i tried. Last week I stepped in and force feed a rat pinky. Today a week later I offered a FT rat fuzzy and she didn’t even tongue flick, so i offered a live hopper and nothing.
Do I offer a live in a week? Do i just continue to force feed til she decided to take it on her own? What would yall do?


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Personally, I don't like force-feeding prey items to snakes. It must seem to snakes being force-fed that they're under attack by these rodents- & that seems like it would be counter-productive to activating their natural appetite for what you want them to eventually eat. When I've had snakes that for whatever reason couldn't or wouldn't eat, I've tube-fed them, so there was no negative association with their prey. Tube-feeding is also done less frequently than normal meals, to give the snake time to get their "energy" back so they feel hungry & eventually respond correctly to actual prey. In the wild, of course, some snakes are just not "survivors"- they're weaker for whatever reasons- but if you want to save this gal, & want my detailed instructions for a tube-feed, I'll be happy to share them with you via pm- just say the word. It's not that hard, & is gentler for the snake, IMO- certainly it's no worse than force-feeding.

[nikkubus]

It really depends on the condition of the hatchling. Some can go 2-3 months if they are born nice and chunky, but some cannot. Unless it's really looking thin, I'd probably wait at least another week before an assist. I don't do full on force feeding unless absolutely necessary because it's just so hard on them, and 90% of the time just getting the prey's head in their mouth is enough for instincts to kick in and they eat on their own from then on out.

Not sure what you have and haven't tried already, but I'd try braining a f/t mouse fuzzy if you haven't already.

[MattEvans]

Last year out of 13 hatchlings 3 didn't eat at first. It wasn't untill I tried live rat pups, I had bought for the snakes that already had ate 5 times. They looked like little balloons with having eaten that size meal.
I never had much luck with mice hoppers. they always seem to scare the snakes. most eat rat fuzzies first but sometimes the size, movement and heat of the rat pups really peak their hunting response.

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[Bogertophis]

Last year out of 13 hatchlings 3 didn't eat at first. It wasn't untill I tried live rat pups, I had bought for the snakes that already had ate 5 times. They looked like little balloons with having eaten that size meal.
I never had much luck with mice hoppers. they always seem to scare the snakes. most eat rat fuzzies first but sometimes the size, movement and heat of the rat pups really peak their hunting response.

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I agree with you about "mouse hoppers" potentially scaring the snakes because they're so active. I raise my own mice, & there is a fine line between a fuzzy mouse that's just becoming a hopper (ie. one that has just opened their eyes) & an "older hopper" that's very rambunctious. It's often a challenge to get just what you need, especially for a shyer snake. Even though they're too small, I'd personally use a mouse "fuzzy" (eyes closed!) that's too small rather than a wide-eyed hopper mouse. Likewise I'd choose a rat fuzzy (eyes closed) over a mouse hopper- unless the snake is "hooked on" mice.

Just remember that once mice (or rats) open their eyes, they fight back, & they fight back more effectively the longer their eyes have been open, so please always be alert if feeding live. Whether for BPs or other kinds of snakes (& whether you like it or not) most do better started on live prey for at least initial feedings, to make sure their instincts have "kicked in"- after that, switching to pre-killed (fresh or f/t) is always my preference, both for the snake's safety & humane treatment of feeders- but initially, it's important to get a hatchling (or neonate) snake eating "something" on their own.

[Bogertophis]

I had a clutch hatch early August and got 4 of 5 eating live hoppers. One refused everything i tried. Last week I stepped in and force feed a rat pinky. Today a week later I offered a FT rat fuzzy and she didn’t even tongue flick, so i offered a live hopper and nothing.
Do I offer a live in a week? Do i just continue to force feed til she decided to take it on her own? What would yall do?


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Did you try a live mouse fuzzy (eyes closed- the mouse, not yours )? Live hoppers are very active, & an under-fed hatchling probably is no match for one, even if it smells right.

As I said before though, I'm not a fan of "force-feeding"- if live "appetizers" don't work, I'd tube feed so the snake at least has some readily available energy to function. It's like when you're in the hospital...if you didn't have an I.V. for some nutrition, you'd never feel good enough to regain your appetite, & a "downward spiral" is the usual result. But we can't do I.V.s for our snakes- a tube-feed works in a similar way, IMO, without further traumatizing the snake with prey that seems to be aggressive.

[Moreptile]

I am gonna try a live fuzzy this weekend. I did watch some videos on the tube feeding as well and will consider if it continues to be an issue.

I totally understand not all hatchlings make it but i will step in to the best of my ability to give her a fighting chance.


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