Hi, New BP owner! (A little anxious)

[MattMass1]

Hi I recently got my first ever Ball Python and snake for that matter, a Banana and I named him Chester because he reminded me of cheetos, anyways I’ve had him for about 4 days now and I’m trying to make sure he’s all comfortable and situated and I’m a little anxious because he seems to be all fidgety and not wanting to be in any hides I’ve set up for him, I have a heating pad, I have a thermometer set up to keep it at 90 degrees exactly I have lined his cage w spaghnum moss and I make sure to keep it moist in there, but he’s been trying to escape from what I’ve seen I’ve moved stuff around, and made sure to get him a big water bowl and such. I really don’t know what else to do at this point so I’ve come to you guys and was wondering if I can get some advice. Is there any way I can attach a photo of his tank so you guys can get a reference?

[Piwaket187]

Congratulations on your new noodle! As long as the temperatures and humidity Re where they should be all should be well. He just needs some time to adjust. Try not to bather him too much or move things around too much. Let him get used to his new home.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[nikkubus]

Tapatalk app would make it easier to load a photo from your phone, but your other option is to load the photo to your gallery here or a photo hosting service, and then use the picture direct link with the "insert image" option in the thread.

90F is the hottest spot I hope, and there is a cool area on the other side? If not he might be getting way too hot. Just make sure it's only 90 on about 1/3 of his enclosure and he should settle down after some time getting used to things. High 70s to very low 80s on the cool side is best.

[Bogertophis]

Hi &

You mentioned he has a big water bowl- if you notice him soaking in it, please consider that he might have snake mites. I sure hope not, as that's not the best way to start off, but it happens.
Mites are tiny, hard-to-see blood sucking insects that can not only spread diseases but can actually kill a snake, because they multiply exponentially. I am mentioning this because you mentioned lining his home with moss, which I'm sure he enjoys, but in which mites can hide very well (& also leave their eggs) so please stay vigilant for tiny moving specks, either on your snake, or in his water bowl.

We generally advise housing a new snake on plain white paper towels for a while at first, until you're sure there's no mites. Not all snakes have them- they shouldn't, in fact, but if he does, he'll need treated, so I just want you to be aware & on the look-out. Don't re-do his home at this time- as that adds a lot more stress, & hopefully he won't have mites. But it's just something to know for "next time".

I agree with nikkubus' post above- & I'm hoping (for safety!) you meant you have a "thermostat" connected & regulating your heat source? A thermometer doesn't control the heat, it only tells you the temperature. You absolutely need a thermostat.

Also, as tempting as it is to handle a new snake, for his sake it's best that you don't handle him at all until after he's eating, at least 2 or 3 meals for you at normal intervals (a week apart for a young snake). Otherwise, handling causes fear & stress that can make him refuse to eat, & if it continues, it can result in illness. But if you're patient while he settles in, that's the best way for you to give him the best start possible, so you'll have many years ahead to know him better. Snakes are very frustrating if (when) they refuse to eat, & eating is the most important thing for him at this point, that & rest while he settles in. And don't offer food quite yet, it's just fine to wait a week, while he hopefully calms down.

[MattMass1]

Yea I meant thermostat as in it keeps it at 90 degrees and I have a designated cool side that is at 75 degrees on the opposite side of the tank, he had his first pinky the 2nd day after I brought him home. I haven’t really handled him all that much the only time I handled him was to move him from his carrying cage to his new home and after that I left him be.

[MattMass1]

Yea I meant thermostat as in it keeps it at 90 degrees and I have a designated cool side that is at 75 degrees on the opposite side of the tank, he had his first pinky the 2nd day after I brought him home. I haven’t really handled him all that much the only time I handled him was to move him from his carrying cage to his new home and after that I left him be.

and the only reason I was told to feed him after I got him was because I learned he hadn’t eaten since he was hatched which was about 10 days prior.

[Bogertophis]

Yea I meant thermostat as in it keeps it at 90 degrees and I have a designated cool side that is at 75 degrees on the opposite side of the tank, he had his first pinky the 2nd day after I brought him home. I haven’t really handled him all that much the only time I handled him was to move him from his carrying cage to his new home and after that I left him be.

Good.

and the only reason I was told to feed him after I got him was because I learned he hadn’t eaten since he was hatched which was about 10 days prior.

That's great that he already ate for you, and since you gave a little more information, I think I can make a guess as to why he's been so restless. He's hungry!

Was this pinky a pinky mouse or a pinky rat? Rat pinkies are bigger, BUT neither one is an adequate meal for this snake. Bear in mind we're not seeing this snake but the typical BP hatchling is generally fed a mouse "hopper", which is much bigger. Was the pinky alive or f/t (frozen-thawed)? Either way, since you know he is willing to eat, I'd wait about 5 days, & then offer him a meal of the appropriate size- preferably a hopper that's "f/t". He might just take it- IF you offer it the right way- since he took the pinky despite being so "new" at your place.

In the meantime, don't handle him- let him digest & settle in- that's really important. For best results for any snake, & especially with someone like you (no snake experience), he should have been fed by whomever had him when he hatched out. And he should have been fed several times also, not sold to a beginner, unfed.

[MattMass1]

Good.



That's great that he already ate for you, and since you gave a little more information, I think I can make a guess as to why he's been so restless. He's hungry!

Was this pinky a pinky mouse or a pinky rat? Rat pinkies are bigger, BUT neither one is an adequate meal for this snake. Bear in mind we're not seeing this snake but the typical BP hatchling is generally fed a mouse "hopper", which is much bigger. Was the pinky alive or f/t (frozen-thawed)? Either way, since you know he is willing to eat, I'd wait about 5 days, & then offer him a meal of the appropriate size- preferably a hopper that's "f/t". He might just take it- IF you offer it the right way- since he took the pinky despite being so "new" at your place.

In the meantime, don't handle him- let him digest & settle in- that's really important. For best results for any snake, & especially with someone like you (no snake experience), he should have been fed by whomever had him when he hatched out. And he should have been fed several times also, not sold to a beginner, unfed.

It was a mouse pinky, a live one, I was told to try and get him over to frozen ASAP but I think ill give him a hopper for the next meal, would you recommend a live or dead one in this case?

[tempo36]

I'd try a f/t if you can.

As someone who had an absolute horrific time getting my first BP to eat at all, I will say that once he "figured out eating" and I got better at reading his hunger queues, having him on f/t has been great.

Perhaps taking advantage of his hunger now might make the transition easier onto f/t.

[Bogertophis]

A mouse pinky is literally "nothing" for your BP to digest, so you really don't even need to wait to try feeding him again.

Personally, I'd try a f/t hopper right now, while you know he's hungry & looking for food. Get feeding tongs, if you don't already have them.

You might also come home with a live pinkie or fuzzy mouse, just in case he doesn't quite recognize the f/t hopper- & as long as the hopper is on the smallish side, he can easily put away both. The idea would be to offer the live fuzzy first as an "appetizer".

Or, if you're not too far from your source of prey, just try the f/t first- & only go back for a live fuzzy if you need to for "motivation".

Since this snake has never eaten previously & only dealt with a live pinkie mouse so far, a live hopper might too much for him to deal with- but there's no way I can tell you for sure- we're not seeing the snake, & snakes aren't all the same. What some snakes go right after boldly, others may shrink away from & hide, intimidated. Take your best shot & good luck.

It would be the best, awesome in fact, if he just took a f/t hopper right now though. You do want him on f/t prey for the long haul.