Healthy Habitat Cleaner and Deodorizer

[Gocntry]

Chlorhexidine Solution Indications

An antiseptic and antimicrobial disinfectant which provides activity against a wide range of micro-organisms, especially against those commonly present on the skin.
Non-toxic, non-irritating agent possessing a wide range of antiseptic and antimicrobial activity against organisms which infect the skin, such as bacteria, fungi, ringworm and yeast.
Dosage and Administration

Dilute one (1) ounce (2 tablespoons) of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION per gallon of clean water. Rinse the area to be disinfected with an ample amount of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION. Wipe away the excess and pat dry with a sterile gauze or sponge.
Caution(s): Avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If contact is made, flush immediately and thoroughly with clean water.
For animal use only. (It's not talking about reptiles but fur animals)

For Reptile use: From the pangeareptile website
Chlorhexidine (aka Nolvasan) is a very effective bacteriacide, virucide, and fungicide. 100% safe to use in reptile cages because it leaves no toxic residue or fumes. This is the same stuff veterinarians use to irrigate wounds and is even used as a mouthwash for animals and people. We have been using this product for years and it has our full endorsement.
Dilution rate for Chlorhexidine: 1 ounce (2 Tbsp) solution per 1 gallon of clean water.



I fill my sink with a solution to rinse off all the items in the enclosures to clean all the hides, plastic plants, plastic logs in there. rinse well and dry off

I also use a spray bottle to clean enclosures too, after I wipe it out I let it air out for 10 minutes before putting snake back in.

I use it to spot clean areas where snakes have used the bathroom, I clean out the substrate spay and wipe with that stuff.

I have never detected a lingering odor after from the snakes mess. (My nose might not be the best sniffer though )

as it says 1 ounce per gallon of water, 128 ounces to the gallon that makes quite a bit.

Everybody has their own experiences I'm sure, But I've been using it for years and like the stuff and think it does a good job

Hope this helps

[dee151]

You would have to be careful with that. It needs to be very diluted. At about .05%. Betadine is more common for minor wound treatment.

Ok, so this is basically then beter use for Cleaner disinfection?

[Bogertophis]

so this stuff, will do everything, like in the healthy habitat? Just dilute down? Does this help with odor? And safe to spray everything in a cage down? Water dish? Fake plants ETC?

To clean my tanks, I remove furnishings (hides, branches, water bowl) & all debris (including substrate and feces). This or ANY disinfectant works best when NOT in the presence of biological debris (feces & dirt). So I spray down the now-empty tanks with diluted chlorhexidine & optimally let them sit for about 20 minutes for maximum germ-killing. You can wipe it dry sooner, but just not as effective. This stuff has a very slight fresh scent- not noticeable when dry. You do NOT need to rinse it off the cage walls/floor, but it MUST BE DRY.

BTW, I also use diluted chlorhexidine spray to wipe & dry all rodent cages too. I've used this stuff for about 3 decades now, lol, though I've also tried a few other things along the way, including the chemically very similar "Nolvasan" (which is far more expensive), & the newer F10 (which also cost more, & is also diluted).

To clean hides, fake plants, or water bowls: spray liberally just as with the cage, but water bowls MUST be rinsed out, not just dried. Hides or branches/decor can just be dry prior to contact with the snake. Note: I periodically spray branches liberally with diluted chlorhexidine, then allow to air dry in hot sun. Been doing this way many years of keeping many healthy snakes.

Water bowls, IMO, are best cleaned using just undiluted white vinegar (the stuff in your kitchen & laundry room), because it's a mild antiseptic but also dissolves hard water (mineral) deposits.

Odors come from fecal material that remains when cages are only "spot-cleaned" ineffectively. If the cage smells, it needs a full clean out, not something to "deodorize" it.

Chlorhexidine is also found in mouthwashes (used by humans) & is sometimes used in wound care, or skin disinfection (prior to surgery) etc. In pure form as shown it can be bought by the gallon or pint from feed stores (it's widely used in dairy farming etc) or online- from various sources. You dilute it SO much that unless you have a great many snakes, you don't want to buy a gallon jug- a pint will last you a very long time: use one ounce per gallon of water. ​ It's good stuff because it's effective, safe, easy to use (no rinsing, just wipe cages dry) & very budget-friendly. (It's NOT for internal ingestion or inhalation, please stick to external surface uses on cages & stuff.)

(note: "Healthy habitat" is a totally different kind of product- it uses enzymes to neutralize )

[Bogertophis]

This also ack as a cleaner? To animals cuts and etc? If they get hurt?

I do NOT recommend using chlorhexidine (or for that matter, the Natural Chemistry spray) for cuts & other injuries to your pet- that's NOT what it's for.

I DO suggest using a product called Vetericyn ointment for topical use in reptiles- it's carried by some stores like Petco, & also online sources of pet products. It's made FOR reptile use, so it's a water-based ointment that won't harm reptile skin. (It's NOT petroleum-based, aka vaseline-based- which tends to mess up future shedding- as happens when using first aid ointments made for human use, such as Neosporin or polysporin; those can be used briefly in a tiny localized amount in an emergency, but they're just not the best option. You can also use a small amount of povidone-iodine, aka the brand name Betadine- topically- for temporary use on a snake wound that's not deep- but again, Vetericyn is recommended & is the best choice.)

[nikkubus]

Also is there anything a new owner should have on hand? I got Thermostats, thermometer and temp guns on hand...

I am going to list some things that may seem obvious just to cover all the bases because it's absolutely impossible for me to know what you do and don't already know.

-Some type of enclosure that locks in a way the animal cannot escape
-heat source of some kind that can only get power through your thermostat
-water dish that is really difficult to tip over
-two or more identical hides that are sized where your BP fits quite snugly inside
-humid hide with sphagnum moss
-other "decorations" to cover up most of the area that is not taken up by the hides and water dish *I would avoid hard to clean items like wood for the first 90 days*
-digital hygrometer
-paper towel as substrate for 90 days then usually coco bark or cypress mulch works best unless you live in a humid climate

I would recommend having that all set up far in advance so you can fiddle around with the settings to get it just right before the animal arrives.

-spray bottle to mist (I prefer the big ones meant for garden fertilizer that have the small hose but you can use a normal one)
-paper towels to spot clean
-tongs to offer prey
-appropriate sized f/t prey unless the animal is used to eating live, in which case it may be best to stick with what she is used to for a month or so
-kitchen scale
-small locking tub with a few air holes drilled or a "critter keeper" to keep her in while you are doing full enclosure cleaning
-hand sanitizer to clean your hands and tools (after they touch her or her enclosure or other animals and their enclosures) to prevent spread of disease to/from your other reptiles
-snake hook to break feeding response before handling her (many people don't need this with BP's but if you are apprehensive about taking a bite I'd use one till you have practice how to pick her up)
-make a reptile first aid kit with items like vetricyn, betadine, qtips, popsicle sticks, cotton balls, tweezers, syringes (without the needle), unflavored pedialyte, and contact info for normal and emergency vets that both have a lot of experience with snakes

[dee151]

Chlorhexidine Solution Indications

An antiseptic and antimicrobial disinfectant which provides activity against a wide range of micro-organisms, especially against those commonly present on the skin.
Non-toxic, non-irritating agent possessing a wide range of antiseptic and antimicrobial activity against organisms which infect the skin, such as bacteria, fungi, ringworm and yeast.
Dosage and Administration

Dilute one (1) ounce (2 tablespoons) of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION per gallon of clean water. Rinse the area to be disinfected with an ample amount of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION. Wipe away the excess and pat dry with a sterile gauze or sponge.
Caution(s): Avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If contact is made, flush immediately and thoroughly with clean water.
For animal use only. (It's not talking about reptiles but fur animals)

For Reptile use: From the pangeareptile website
Chlorhexidine (aka Nolvasan) is a very effective bacteriacide, virucide, and fungicide. 100% safe to use in reptile cages because it leaves no toxic residue or fumes. This is the same stuff veterinarians use to irrigate wounds and is even used as a mouthwash for animals and people. We have been using this product for years and it has our full endorsement.
Dilution rate for Chlorhexidine: 1 ounce (2 Tbsp) solution per 1 gallon of clean water.



I fill my sink with a solution to rinse off all the items in the enclosures to clean all the hides, plastic plants, plastic logs in there. rinse well and dry off

I also use a spray bottle to clean enclosures too, after I wipe it out I let it air out for 10 minutes before putting snake back in.

I use it to spot clean areas where snakes have used the bathroom, I clean out the substrate spay and wipe with that stuff.

I have never detected a lingering odor after from the snakes mess. (My nose might not be the best sniffer though )

as it says 1 ounce per gallon of water, 128 ounces to the gallon that makes quite a bit.

Everybody has their own experiences I'm sure, But I've been using it for years and like the stuff and think it does a good job

Hope this helps

Can YOU please Copy all of this, and send it to me in a DM please...

[dee151]

I am going to list some things that may seem obvious just to cover all the bases because it's absolutely impossible for me to know what you do and don't already know.

-Some type of enclosure that locks in a way the animal cannot escape
-heat source of some kind that can only get power through your thermostat
-water dish that is really difficult to tip over
-two or more identical hides that are sized where your BP fits quite snugly inside
-humid hide with sphagnum moss
-other "decorations" to cover up most of the area that is not taken up by the hides and water dish *I would avoid hard to clean items like wood for the first 90 days*
-digital hygrometer
-paper towel as substrate for 90 days then usually coco bark or cypress mulch works best unless you live in a humid climate

I would recommend having that all set up far in advance so you can fiddle around with the settings to get it just right before the animal arrives.

-spray bottle to mist (I prefer the big ones meant for garden fertilizer that have the small hose but you can use a normal one)
-paper towels to spot clean
-tongs to offer prey
-appropriate sized f/t prey unless the animal is used to eating live, in which case it may be best to stick with what she is used to for a month or so
-kitchen scale
-small locking tub with a few air holes drilled or a "critter keeper" to keep her in while you are doing full enclosure cleaning
-hand sanitizer to clean your hands and tools (after they touch her or her enclosure or other animals and their enclosures) to prevent spread of disease to/from your other reptiles
-snake hook to break feeding response before handling her (many people don't need this with BP's but if you are apprehensive about taking a bite I'd use one till you have practice how to pick her up)
-make a reptile first aid kit with items like vetricyn, betadine, qtips, popsicle sticks, cotton balls, tweezers, syringes (without the needle), unflavored pedialyte, and contact info for normal and emergency vets that both have a lot of experience with snakes

I got my tub set up, and 2 hides, 13oz water dish, helps keep my humidity around 55%
thermostat is set to 100% cause of the plastic, its out side of the tub, with temp gun i get about 92 to 94 hot spot, But wen i put paper towls down, I get about 88, I have 2 layers of pepper towels to cover the tub flooring...
But i know under those paper towels it sits 92-94...... I think this will be good???

[dee151]

17 litter Really useful Box, Hot side is left side, Cooler side is where the water bowl is at...


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[Bogertophis]

...
Chlorhexidine (aka Nolvasan) is a very effective bacteriacide, virucide, and fungicide...

Pardon me for offering a slight correction. These 2 products are NOT identical, besides one (chlorhexidine) being a generic name & the other (Nolvasan) being a trademarked & slightly modified version of chlorhexidine; the important difference to note is that chlorhexidine has very little effect against viruses, whereas Nolvasan does. It's a slightly different chemical configuration that makes the difference- & a big difference in cost. I used to use Nolvasan (when I had way more snakes than I currently have, & included both rescues & some breeding), but I no longer do- I use generic chlorhexidine (& FYI, I currently keep 19 snakes, with no plans to add any- I also use it for my rodent cages). Nolvasan is more typically used in veterinary clinics & other professional locations- & they can write off the cost as a business expense also.

[Bogertophis]

...with temp gun i get about 92 to 94 hot spot, But wen i put paper towls down, I get about 88, I have 2 layers of pepper towels to cover the tub flooring...
But i know under those paper towels it sits 92-94...... I think this will be good???

No. If your snake crawls under those paper towels, he can be harmed by temps. that high. PLAN on snakes getting under any substrate, & never allow the floor for a BP to exceed 89-90* for safety.