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Thread: No movement

  1. #31
    Registered User BlueOrleans1290's Avatar
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    Re: No movement

    Oh and yes I'm leaving her alone especially now. But If I'm playing the long game and it takes months for her to eat.
    You are what you give

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    BPnet Veteran BeansTheDerp's Avatar
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    Re: No movement

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueOrleans1290 View Post
    Oh and yes I'm leaving her alone especially now. But If I'm playing the long game and it takes months for her to eat.
    how big is the rat/mouse? remember you want it to be the size of their midsection. and you want to check with who you got them from to see if they eat live or F/T, I recommend that if you do live and the BP is small enough to get two baby mice that are still on milk and try them but one at a time. I hope they get better soon!
    Be kind, and inspire others to be kind.

  3. #33
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    Re: No movement

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueOrleans1290 View Post
    Oh and yes I'm leaving her alone especially now. But If I'm playing the long game and it takes months for her to eat.
    Please bear in mind that if her hides are inadequate, her home is too large* & uncluttered, OR her temperatures are wrong, you'll just be waiting months to watch a snake that is still starving, and to the potential detriment of her health.

    *see also this related thread: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...or-juvenile-BP

    Even for BPs, the immune system needs good nutrition to function well- prolonged fasting is best avoided because at some point, the snake is at greater risk of actually becoming sick. (For example, among those species that truly brumate, some snakes don't recover because during their down-time, some illness took hold. Maybe bacterial, viral, fungal...but they don't all wake up healthy, or they may not wake up at all.)

    "Waiting" is ONLY appropriate after you have fixed anything that doesn't measure up to her needs. Please also consider that "waiting out a hunger strike" may pose more harm when you- the snake owner- are not experienced enough to really recognize when a snake is in serious health trouble. You should own a digital scale to keep track of her actual weight loss, as it's not easy to assess just visually.
    Last edited by Bogertophis; 02-22-2021 at 06:48 PM.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
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  5. #34
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    Re: No movement

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueOrleans1290 View Post
    ... She does have one hide, and yes it is an on ended log, [it sitting on the heat] I made sure to block both ends but the entrance though. There is some foliage on one side, and on the other side is the end of the enclosure whish has a towel over it to keep it dark. [Its also over half of the cage to help with humidity]

    She is 6 months old, and I got her almost a month ago. She was eating live fuzzy rats [and I'm still trying to work out how to get her to switch to F/T] I don't have much history on her other than that she came from a reputable breeder. It does make sense. I've tried feeding a little after mid afternoon, so I can try feeding later...
    A few things- your hide needs replaced with something like this https://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box & TWO of them, one over the UTH + one cool side of cage. The "log hide" you're using does NOT offer a snug sense of security for a shy snake, not even close. You want this type of hide that is a little bigger than your snake's coiled body- if you get one that's a little too big (for "her to grow into") you can stuff some paper towels in it to make it seem smaller to her until she grows. Even a clean cardboard BOX with the right size & with just one opening cut would be better for your snake than that log. (Cardboard boxes should be disposed of when dirty, & replaced, so the plastic ones are more practical in the long run for most ppl.) I am not endorsing a particular source for plastic hides, btw- they're available from various places, including https://www.beanfarm.com/collections...dium-side-open & also your local pet stores. I just wanted to show you exactly what is needed for your BP. What appeals to us visually doesn't necessarily pass muster for a snake- put their comfort first, always. (Does your BP use the log thing at all?)

    Most ppl who successfully switch their BPs food from live to f/t don't do so when they first get the snake. It's always better to stick to whatever "program" the snake was on prior to coming home with you, then & ONLY then, after they're settled in & are feeding regularly & you know there are no immediate health risks (that would be impacted by a prolonged fast), then THAT's when you should try to change their eating habits. It's asking a lot of a newly-re-homed snake to change their food when you only just got them- & makes it so much harder, usually. Honestly, if you cannot provide their usual prey for an unknown period of time prior to trying to switch them over, it probably wasn't a good idea to come home with this snake to begin with. Most BPs can be persuaded, but not all.
    Last edited by Bogertophis; 02-22-2021 at 05:23 PM.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
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  7. #35
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    Re: No movement

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueOrleans1290 View Post
    Thank you so much! Do I wait to handle her untill she eats? I would like to get her used to handling, especially because we have little kids running around the house [not in my room] but if Its perfectly fine to wait untill she eats. Just wondering
    I think I've said this already, as perhaps have others?

    Do NOT handle a new snake (especially a young one, & especially a BP) until AFTER they've eaten at least 2-3 times for you at normal intervals (a week or so between meals). (Refusing a meal because they're in shed doesn't "count" against.) Also don't handle for at least a day or 2 after each meal, so she doesn't regurgitate it- that's a major set-back (& some snakes can die from it).

    BPs are docile snakes...we all have trouble waiting to handle new snakes- we "get" that, but wait anyway. No need to "get her used to handling"- & that excuse gets used a lot, LOL.

    Also, little kids piling on to handle her is not a good idea. Let me remind you, the only thing that picks up a snake in the wild (as their instincts are geared for) is a predator about to eat them! The only thing worse than one person picking them up (until they learn it's safe) is a bunch of people sticking their hands in the mix, holding or touching...it's terrifying to a snake. Don't do it. Little kids mean well, but don't have the foresight or self-control- some drop animals because they panic, & some squeeze and injure them. And if your snake panics & bites, I promise you she gets dropped & maybe injured. Your snake, but my answer would be "sorry, look but you can't touch". Your snake is NOT ready for "meeting & greeting" anyone until she's eating for a while & growing up without fear of you first.

    Snake-keeping success requires empathy with animals & lots of patience, above all.
    Last edited by Bogertophis; 02-22-2021 at 06:28 PM.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
    Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)

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  9. #36
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    Re: No movement

    As for the little kids, don't worry I haven't even let them see any of my snakes. I don't like the idea of their grimey hands trying to touch them. I will do the best that I can, and I will reach out to anyone that I can to try and get a love rodent.. as well as get new hides.. thank you
    You are what you give

  10. #37
    Registered User BlueOrleans1290's Avatar
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    Re: No movement


    I cluttered up her cage a bit, added two hides, the one she is in right now is a lot more secure. I used it for my KSB, but she never even blinked an eye at it or used it anyway. Don't worry I still have hides for her too. Sas is exploring a little right now, I added a bit of foliage. Hopefully this will help her to feel more comfortable

    - - - Updated - - -

    And yes, they may not be the same type of hide.. I'm working on this. I'm just doing what I can with what I have now

    - - - Updated - - -

    Which.. she still seems to favor the wood log. She went right into that one
    Last edited by BlueOrleans1290; 02-22-2021 at 09:51 PM.
    You are what you give

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  12. #38
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    For a nervous new snake, you want to avoid making frequent or large changes to their home.

    I'm not surprised she is still drawn to her log, as it's "familiar" at this point- time will tell if she actually prefers the greater security of fully-enclosed hides. It's worth finding out though, since she's not eating & that's essential.

    More cover is best, especially in a larger enclosure. It's not about natural "cage-glamour" right now, she couldn't care less- she just needs the basics to feel secure enough to eat- that is critical.
    Last edited by Bogertophis; 02-22-2021 at 10:29 PM.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
    Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)

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  14. #39
    Registered User BlueOrleans1290's Avatar
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    Re: No movement

    I wasn't trying to glamor her cage. I just had some foliage that I thought might help to just clutter it up a little and not make it feel so open. The other hide I added is a loooot more secure than the log. Its just big enough for her to curl up in, and as you said, it's low to the ground. I'll leave it to her to figure it out. Although the new spot where I put the log actually makes it have a really cozy 'back nooks where it's nice and snug. Hopefully she feels a bit safer.
    You are what you give

  15. #40
    Registered User BlueOrleans1290's Avatar
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    Re: No movement

    I won't be touching her enclosure for a while outside of maintenence or feeding. I am doing my best I promise. I have an attempt feed on this Wednesday. I can let you know if she refuses again. I've contacted many places and none of them carry live around here, so I'll keep looking.
    You are what you give

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