Beans is being stubborn, or just picky.

[Bogertophis]

sooooo I need some help. for almost 3 weeks now Beans will not eat, we tried frozen thawed, then live. and he refused both, we even soaked the rat overnight to make sure it's thawed all the way, we also made sure it was at the right temperature, we also tried feeding him when he was active at night so that he would be trying to hunt! but he didn't eat. I'm getting worried and need some help with techniques to get him to start eating? I really appreciate any help as long as it's not negative. if I need correction feel free to do so but please don't be discouraging about it or negative. thank you for your time and efforts to help me! Beans I'm sure will also thank you.

A few things, after re-reading this:

"soaked the rat overnight"- in the refrigerator, I hope? If at room temperature that long, it was likely spoiled when you offered it. Bleah.

"we also tried feeding him when he was active at night so that he would be trying to hunt! but he didn't eat."- No surprise. BPs are "ambush hunters"- they do NOT hunt actively, they hide & wait to pounce on prey going by (to "get the drop on their prey"- aka by a "sneak attack"). Best to wait & offer meal when he's peeking out of his hide in evening/night hours, but never when he's roaming the cage actively.

[nikkubus]

I disagree about what the ideal cool side temps should be, but I at least agree that 71F is a little too cold. If the hot side is already 87F though (not the hot spot under substrate) I probably wouldn't mess with it with current equipment and I'd leave it how it is and get a slightly bigger heating pad. How much % of the floor under the enclosure does it cover right now?

[BeansTheDerp]

The cool side at 71* is nearly 10* too cold- you want about 78*-80* on the "cool side" for a BP. If the water bowl is actually 69*, that suggests his "cool side" is probably 69* too, & really IS 10* too low, btw. (The 2* difference in temps. might be just how you're taking the temps.- which makes me wonder if you've really got 87* on the warmest side, or if it's actually 85* & too cool as well???)

Proper heat is super-important for BPs- cool temperatures tells a snake NOT to eat. And if your room is cool & you handle him, that can also make him refuse food, not just the stress of handling, but being subjected to a chilly room.

And don't handle him at all (!) when you're having trouble feeding him. Sorry, "no fun" I know, but it matters. Eating is "job #1" for a snake. No handling until he has eaten 3 consecutive meals at normal intervals & without refusals (unless in shed, that doesn't count, it's a "normal" time for most snakes to refuse food).

I use a temp gun to check temps, I raised the heat in the terrarium and checked the water which has now raised to the same temp as the rest of the cold side which is 76 and still raising!

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk

[BeansTheDerp]

I disagree about what the ideal cool side temps should be, but I at least agree that 71F is a little too cold. If the hot side is already 87F though (not the hot spot under substrate) I probably wouldn't mess with it with current equipment and I'd leave it how it is and get a slightly bigger heating pad. How much % of the floor under the enclosure does it cover right now?

We have to small heat mats on the hot side, one underneath where the hide is and one underneath where the humidity box is! So it cover almost 70% of the hot side.

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk

[BeansTheDerp]

First, I agree with all of the above answers. Second (in addition), Are you feeding the same kind of rodent that he was raised on? Mice & rats smell & taste different, & many BPs will only accept the one they like best. (This is not true of many other kinds of snakes, but it's fairly typical for BPs to show a preference.) Also: when your snake is fairly new to you, it's best to feed the same way as what was previously successful; that is to say, if he was raised on live, he's likely to want live, & if he was raised on f/t, then only offer f/t. BPs are pretty "opinionated" about their prey.

He was raised with rat pups so we are trying f/t rat pups

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk

[Hugsplox]

Further, for the people on the forum our number one priority is your animal's well being, not your feelings. People will sometimes be blunt, especially if we think you are doing something wrong. It's not because we hate you or are angry with you, it's because we want what's best for your animal. In this case, people are being blunt because, I think, they are worried about some of the things you are doing and that your BP hasn't eaten. It appears you are doing things to make the situation worse. If your BP is a young animal, time is critical.

This^

No one is coming in here with the intention of being mean to you, but every post you make we give you the same advice and to be honest, you kinda don't listen to/follow any of it. It's just discouraging to people trying to help when you put in all your posts that you appreciate the help but not if it's negative, and then you don't use any of the tools you're given.

You HAVE to leave him alone. Like JM said, don't reduce handling, eliminate it until he's eating for you. You cannot expect a snake that you've not allowed time to settle in to a new environment to eat.

[BlueOrleans1290]

I agree with what everyone has said. Those temperatures definitely need to be raised. And handling needs to cease, but from my experiences, after they settle in. And the food is done right, about 4 weeks after not eating I would go and have them checked by a vet [might just be me] just to make sure there isn't anything else wrong. Especially if they were eating before. I've also seen that some snakes prefer the hopper mice over rat fuzzies, so it could just be that Beans is being picky. Have you noticed any signs of shed? Our old BP used to stop eating about a week before he'd go into shed. Maybe its similar? I'm no expert, but these are just some of my experiences and I hope they help. Good luck!

[BeansTheDerp]

he shed over 10 days ago, I told my dad that he could be sick and he wanted to try some things the breeder suggested first.

[BlueOrleans1290]

he shed over 10 days ago, I told my dad that he could be sick and he wanted to try some things the breeder suggested first.

My kenyan sand boa does something similar. She refuses to eat untill about a week and a half after her shed cycle finished. Definitely not the same animal. But it happens sometimes. Good luck

[BeansTheDerp]

My kenyan sand boa does something similar. She refuses to eat untill about a week and a half after her shed cycle finished. Definitely not the same animal. But it happens sometimes. Good luck

Thank you!

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk