BP Supplies

[notwiktoria]

Hi everyone

I bought what I think are all of the supplies I need for a baby bp that i will be purchasing within the next month! Here's the list, please let me know if i'm missing anything:


20 gallon Long tank

Secure mesh screen top w/ clips

UTH

Exo-Terra Thermostat

2 heat lamps (1 red, 1 white bulb)

2 accu-rite digital hygrometer/thermometer

repti-bark

2 wooden hideouts

Jungle Vine

Driftwood

Sphagnum Moss

Spray bottle

Feeding Tongs

Several Fake plants

Deep, heavy corner water dish

[Lord Sorril]

Good job on planning!

I only see 1 thermostat listed, but, three heat sources: UTH, red bulb, white bulb.

Note: I'm not a big fan of heat bulbs since they don't work well with some thermostats and they always seem to burn out quickly on me. Since a 20 gallon is not very large...instead of bulbs I would use one ceramic heat emitter (150W) with an appropriately rated reflector housing. Covering the top of the screen lid opposite the heat emitter will allow you to retain more heat/humidity. Insulating the sides/back of the 20 gallon with foam insulation board would also help stabilize temps. if you live in an area with cold nights/winters.

Another handy tool not on the list is a contact surface temp. gun which would allow you to ensure that your UTH is not overheating and the surfaces in your tank are not too cold.

[Craiga 01453]

Good job on planning!

I only see 1 thermostat listed, but, three heat sources: UTH, red bulb, white bulb.

Note: I'm not a big fan of heat bulbs since they don't work well with some thermostats and they always seem to burn out quickly on me. Since a 20 gallon is not very large...instead of bulbs I would use one ceramic heat emitter (150W) with an appropriately rated reflector housing. Covering the top of the screen lid opposite the heat emitter will allow you to retain more heat/humidity. Insulating the sides/back of the 20 gallon with foam insulation board would also help stabilize temps. if you live in an area with cold nights/winters.

Another handy tool not on the list is a contact surface temp. gun which would allow you to ensure that your UTH is not overheating and the surfaces in your tank are not too cold.

First off, great job being prepared and ahead of the game. That will eliminate a lot of stress on both you and your new pet

Also, I agree with the above reply 100% top to bottom.

[notwiktoria]

Good job on planning!

I only see 1 thermostat listed, but, three heat sources: UTH, red bulb, white bulb.

Note: I'm not a big fan of heat bulbs since they don't work well with some thermostats and they always seem to burn out quickly on me. Since a 20 gallon is not very large...instead of bulbs I would use one ceramic heat emitter (150W) with an appropriately rated reflector housing. Covering the top of the screen lid opposite the heat emitter will allow you to retain more heat/humidity. Insulating the sides/back of the 20 gallon with foam insulation board would also help stabilize temps. if you live in an area with cold nights/winters.

Another handy tool not on the list is a contact surface temp. gun which would allow you to ensure that your UTH is not overheating and the surfaces in your tank are not too cold.

Okay i will get on that and purchase the che! Thank you i appreciate the response

[Bogertophis]

You'll be much happier NOT using "wood hideouts". For one thing, it's a nightmare if your new snake comes with mites, & since mites can hide (also their eggs) in any porous cage decor such as wood/mulch/vines that ppl use, IF you find there are mites you'll be throwing your wood hides away! Also, wood hides are unsealed, so poo can contaminate them & they're difficult to clean adequately, they're also heavy, & if you're thinking of the kind that's open at each end (a curved tree bark tunnel) they are NOT suitable as hides at all. Sorry, they lack privacy for the snake, & without that, your snake may not eat (due to stress).

You want something like this: https://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes They're easy to sanitize, no mites can hide & they're nicely private, so snakes love them. Size: snakes (esp. BPs) prefer a snug fit but they'll out-grow it quickly, so rather than buying small ones & then need to size up, get one somewhat larger & stuff it partly with paper towel wads to make it snug until your snake grows. The wood hideouts make nice additional cage furniture later on (they look nice, as does driftwood etc), but don't think of them as "hides".

New snakes are also BEST kept on white paper towels for several weeks, until you're SURE there are NO mites. You cannot see them on other substrate, & they're tiny, so if you happen to miss them, they can quickly & exponentially increase their numbers enough to kill a young snake before you realize what's going on. Mites suck your snake's blood, & while they are tiny, they can easily be numerous enough to cause dehydration, shock, organ failure & death to an unlucky snake, so be watchful for tiny moving specks on your snake (they hide under scales, around eyes, chin, vent, nostrils) & often end up in the water bowl too (they fall off when the snake drinks). Hopefully you won't have to deal with them, but just be forewarned & buy from responsible sources- I can't emphasize that enough. Reputation of the breeder/source matters.

[notwiktoria]

You'll be much happier NOT using "wood hideouts". For one thing, it's a nightmare if your new snake comes with mites, & since mites can hide (also their eggs) in any porous cage decor such as wood/mulch/vines that ppl use, IF you find there are mites you'll be throwing your wood hides away! Also, wood hides are unsealed, so poo can contaminate them & they're difficult to clean adequately, they're also heavy, & if you're thinking of the kind that's open at each end (a curved tree bark tunnel) they are NOT suitable as hides at all. Sorry, they lack privacy for the snake, & without that, your snake may not eat (due to stress).

You want something like this: https://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes They're easy to sanitize, no mites can hide & they're nicely private, so snakes love them. Size: snakes (esp. BPs) prefer a snug fit but they'll out-grow it quickly, so rather than buying small ones & then need to size up, get one somewhat larger & stuff it partly with paper towel wads to make it snug until your snake grows. The wood hideouts make nice additional cage furniture later on (they look nice, as does driftwood etc), but don't think of them as "hides".

New snakes are also BEST kept on white paper towels for several weeks, until you're SURE there are NO mites. You cannot see them on other substrate, & they're tiny, so if you happen to miss them, they can quickly & exponentially increase their numbers enough to kill a young snake before you realize what's going on. Mites suck your snake's blood, & while they are tiny, they can easily be numerous enough to cause dehydration, shock, organ failure & death to an unlucky snake, so be watchful for tiny moving specks on your snake (they hide under scales, around eyes, chin, vent, nostrils) & often end up in the water bowl too (they fall off when the snake drinks). Hopefully you won't have to deal with them, but just be forewarned & buy from responsible sources- I can't emphasize that enough. Reputation of the breeder/source matters.

Thank you for letting me know. Yes, they’re the ones open on each end so i’ll just return those and get an actual hideout like the one you linked. And i will be getting them from a very reputable reptile breeder with 5 stars from 200+ reviews definitely no petco or petsmart!

[Bogertophis]

BTW- If you ever need other supplies you can't find locally, another good source is: https://beanfarm.com/ Funny name for herp supplies, eh?

As far as driftwood & some other decor, just hold off using it while assessing your new pet. Can't be too careful, mites can be a nightmare to eradicate.