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  1. #71
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    Re: California Kingsnake Feeding help

    Quote Originally Posted by Cypris1 View Post
    Even more great news! She was going back to the tupperware I had put the live pinky in so I figured she was hungry again, I only have f/t atm so I put one in a ziploc bag in room temp water, the bag was broke making the pinky in the actual water so I thought she would not take it since the scent was likely washed away but I didnt want it to go to waste so I silently put it in there just in case. About 20 mins later she found it and ate it! Guess she just needed to eat once to get her feeding started!
    Pinkies thaw so fast...that's what I'd have done, & FYI, I always thaw right IN the water. Yes, it washes off some scent, but many snakes don't care, & if they do, that's when I "pinch-damage" the nose.

    But from the size you said she is...even 2 pinkies is NOT enough food. You need fuzzies at least & probably small hoppers now or very soon. I agree, she truly just needed to take food once...because that little bit of food made all the difference in her tummy, & now her tummy says "More!" She will likely eat several pinkies at each feeding now, until you get larger prey.

    I'm very happy she finally ate for you...I knew you could get this done.

    Happy Dance!
    Last edited by Bogertophis; 09-14-2020 at 07:19 PM.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
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  3. #72
    Registered User BringdanoizeKO's Avatar
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    Re: California Kingsnake Feeding help

    Let the mouse “thaw” first. Like you would do with meat. Except on the counter in kitchen for like 1-2 hours max depending on how “frozen’ it is.(it’s a feel kinda thing)
    THEN drop it into heated large bowl of water. Make the water hot! You can’t hurt by going hotter. As long as mouse is in the bag it comes with/in. Just a idiot disclaimer here...don’t HEAT the actual mouse in boiling water or Microwave OR GET IT WET. Not saying you would, but it’s happened before with some. LOL
    Bottom line feeding a dead mouse to a snake requires getting it to “think” that mouse is alive. Use the tongs and toy with the snake a little. Your snake should also be fed in a different enclosure compared to it’s natural habitat. Most new snakes will have tendency’s to not eat right away for few weeks TOPS while adjusting to their home. The additional feeding chamber allows quite a few things in the “Domestication” of your snake. It can somewhat help stop false strikes on you or others reaching into the cage, plus it knows a routine if you keep it consistent.
    Just my worthless $.02

  4. #73
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    Re: California Kingsnake Feeding help

    Quote Originally Posted by BringdanoizeKO View Post
    Let the mouse “thaw” first. Like you would do with meat. Except on the counter in kitchen for like 1-2 hours max depending on how “frozen’ it is.(it’s a feel kinda thing)
    THEN drop it into heated large bowl of water. Make the water hot! You can’t hurt by going hotter. As long as mouse is in the bag it comes with/in. Just a idiot disclaimer here...don’t HEAT the actual mouse in boiling water or Microwave OR GET IT WET. Not saying you would, but it’s happened before with some. LOL
    Bottom line feeding a dead mouse to a snake requires getting it to “think” that mouse is alive. Use the tongs and toy with the snake a little. Your snake should also be fed in a different enclosure compared to it’s natural habitat. Most new snakes will have tendency’s to not eat right away for few weeks TOPS while adjusting to their home. The additional feeding chamber allows quite a few things in the “Domestication” of your snake. It can somewhat help stop false strikes on you or others reaching into the cage, plus it knows a routine if you keep it consistent.
    Just my worthless $.02
    This is completely false...first, setting frozen prey out to thaw slowly in air increases the spoilage...and even if YOU can't smell it your snakes can. Likewise, snakes need prey that is raw, not "cooked" in hot water. To keep frozen prey as fresh as possible, it's best to thaw directly in cool water...that's the fastest way to transfer temperatures...air is actually a good "insulator". Once the prey is thawed (feel the middle, it should be completely soft thru-out), only then put it in very warm (not hot) water for a few minutes at most, but ONLY if you're feeding a snake that cares about it having "lifelike warmth" as BPs do. This thread is about a California king snake, & they do NOT care if the prey is heated at all, but if you need to release a little more scent, just pinch-damage the nose with your feeding tongs right before offering.

    Most importantly, feed your snake where it lives...DO NOT put a snake in another container to feed it, because the handling & unfamiliar place can make a shy feeder refuse to eat (which is what this thread has been dealing with!); in addition, a hungry snake that you pick up to move is likely to bite you, if not before feeding, then afterwards, when they're still in "feed mode"...which can last for hours or even a few days. (Will this nonsense idea ever go away...? )
    Last edited by Bogertophis; 09-16-2020 at 02:32 AM.
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  6. #74
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    Re: California Kingsnake Feeding help

    Quote Originally Posted by BringdanoizeKO View Post
    Let the mouse “thaw” first. Like you would do with meat. Except on the counter in kitchen for like 1-2 hours max depending on how “frozen’ it is.(it’s a feel kinda thing)
    THEN drop it into heated large bowl of water. Make the water hot! You can’t hurt by going hotter. As long as mouse is in the bag it comes with/in. Just a idiot disclaimer here...don’t HEAT the actual mouse in boiling water or Microwave OR GET IT WET. Not saying you would, but it’s happened before with some. LOL
    Bottom line feeding a dead mouse to a snake requires getting it to “think” that mouse is alive. Use the tongs and toy with the snake a little. Your snake should also be fed in a different enclosure compared to it’s natural habitat. Most new snakes will have tendency’s to not eat right away for few weeks TOPS while adjusting to their home. The additional feeding chamber allows quite a few things in the “Domestication” of your snake. It can somewhat help stop false strikes on you or others reaching into the cage, plus it knows a routine if you keep it consistent.
    Just my worthless $.02
    Wrong almost top to bottom.

    OP please ignore the reply above.

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  8. #75
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    Re: California Kingsnake Feeding help

    Ya when I read that post I was quite confused-

    But anyways..

    She is an amazing feeder now! It takes her only about 10 mins to find the pinky and there was once she had found the pinky and she had started tossing the pinky around like a rag doll
    And what just happened today was that I didn't see her for an entire week and I was a bit worried at first but then I figured she was going to shed soon. Last night I put another pinky inside and usually she takes it within 10-20 mins but there was no sign of her so I turned the lights off and went to bed, in the morning I checked back and luckily the pinky was gone! Then I noticed a weird grey thing next to the food bowl and then I realized she had shed! It looks like its in one piece but I cant tell unless I take it out, but I cant take it out since she ate last night and I dont want to spook her to much. Really happy that she shed!!

    Kinda hard to see in the pic but its next to the hide and is a light grey color


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  10. #76
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    Yippee! You've finally got her on track, awesome! This is my kind of update.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
    Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)

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  12. #77
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    Smile Re: California Kingsnake Feeding help

    https://www.snakesforpets.com/feed-a...ate-container/

    I neglected to say I also use cold water to thaw the mouse just do it on the counter.
    As far as the debate on different feeding areas? To each their own! The article I posted above touches on the pros & cons. I have pythons. They are handled quite a bit otherwise what’s the point of owning the snake? The more you handle/bond and earn the trust of the animal the better experience it is for both you & the snake!
    I’ve done both methods over many years and find that the separated enclosure lowers your chance of a strike on the hand(fingers) from possibly startling the snake is far less! Why?? Because every time you open the snakes main enclosure it will assume you’re feeding it if you use it’s main habitat. I find it definitely lowers your chance of a strike. My snakes all start small captive bred and only know what they know from a strict routine. Stress or regurgitation has Never been a issue & never swallowing any bedding. As far as a hungry snake or recently fed snake? Of course the risk is higher And they shouldn’t be handled too much during this time! I just find it lowers the risk factors when you take the extra steps and stick to a strict routine.
    I’ve taken strikes/bites in Distant past and every single one was from reaching into the enclosure the snake was always FED In.
    My personal routine consists of opening enclosure and using snake hook to first gently get snakes attention (also check it’s mood) then allow it to wrap around the shaft. I then raise it up into my hands then we’re off on our adventure.
    To each their own.

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