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  1. #41
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by noodle.obsessed View Post
    I have a bioactive enclosure so I obviously use loose substrate, if you are worried about ingesting you can cover the top layer with large leaf litter and when feeding you can put them on top of a plastic lid in the enclosure or something that isn't the substrate but some snakes won't eat even after just being moved in the enclosure a little. The way I think about it is that they digest bones so a bit of soft substrate probably isn't gonna be detrimental.
    Also remember that they need higher humidity when shedding so the substrate has to be able to handle this.
    I'm sure you know but don't use pine or cedar or any wood that secretes oils, even kiln dried is risky!
    One last thing (even though you haven't mentioned it) I wouldn't recommend aspen, even though they live in a pretty lowish humidity place they spend basically all their time in more humid places like rodent burrows and stuff - it also rots really easily!
    No worries, already know to avoid those and am aware of the aspen controversy (at least as far as BPs are concerned). Thinking what I'm going to do first, is after I get everything I need, set it up to test with newspaper first and see how that goes with maintaining humidity and if it doesn't work out and requires repeated upkeep at a frequent pace, I'll go with coconut fiber as the backup plan.

    While on the topic, I need an opinion. Is this tub the right size and are the clips I put on the lid enough security or do I need to get a tub with the built-in clipping handles?

    [IMG]IMG_20200816_202325534.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]IMG_20200816_202338095.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]IMG_20200816_202418829.jpg[/IMG]

    Holes aren't drilled in yet since I want to make sure I can use it first.

    EDIT: Darn I can't figure out this image system for the life of me.
    Last edited by Snagrio; 08-16-2020 at 09:25 PM.

  2. #42
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Hopefully this works

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  3. #43
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Been studying mites, and I have a question regarding banana/coral glow morphs (one of the likely ones I'll choose), because they both develop tiny freckles on their scale patterns with age that look eerily similar to mites. Are they that hard to tell apart or is it not too difficult to decipher what's a natural freckle on such morphs and what's a mite? The most I've heard is that dots on the chin, belly and vent would more than likely be mites but otherwise it looks hard to be sure which is which.

    Heaven knows I've had more than enough trouble with mites as it is lately with my chickens (been battling the blood-sucking demons for a month or so, but I've finally gained the upper hand) so the last thing I'd want to see is more of them on my precious future snake.

  4. #44
    BPnet Senior Member GoingPostal's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagrio View Post
    Been studying mites, and I have a question regarding banana/coral glow morphs (one of the likely ones I'll choose), because they both develop tiny freckles on their scale patterns with age that look eerily similar to mites. Are they that hard to tell apart or is it not too difficult to decipher what's a natural freckle on such morphs and what's a mite? The most I've heard is that dots on the chin, belly and vent would more than likely be mites but otherwise it looks hard to be sure which is which.

    Heaven knows I've had more than enough trouble with mites as it is lately with my chickens (been battling the blood-sucking demons for a month or so, but I've finally gained the upper hand) so the last thing I'd want to see is more of them on my precious future snake.
    A freckle won't move or wipe off with a paper towel.

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  5. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to GoingPostal For This Useful Post:

    dr del (08-22-2020),jmcrook (08-19-2020),noodle.obsessed (08-18-2020)

  6. #45
    Registered User noodle.obsessed's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by GoingPostal View Post
    A freckle won't move or wipe off with a paper towel.
    Also if you end up using a loose substrate, mites will pop between your fingernails if you squeeze them.

  7. #46
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Well, now I'm in an awkward waiting game. Chanced upon a local Craigslist ad last night for a baby banana pied (the two morphs I've been looking at the most combined into one, what are the odds) that will come with his setup. Emailed them and asked a bunch questions since all the ad gave was some pictures of the animal, that the owner didn't have time for it anymore and that there would be a rehoming fee (that they annoyingly didn't even state).

    No reply yet but if they get back to me and the setup that comes with him is a full if not mostly complete one then I'll go for it if the price is reasonable ($400-500 would be my limit). I'll keep waiting through this weekend.

    And before anyone worries I know the Craigslist etiquette of not going alone and meeting in a public place and so on, have done this many times before.

  8. #47
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Well, gave up on the Craigslist ad since there's been no response (sounded shady anyway) and I just got some equipment delivered.

    Got a temperature gun, thermostat, heat pad and tank screen clamps with a thermometer/hydrometer coming in tomorrow. Today or tomorrow I will get a tank screen, coco fiber substrate, water bowl, hides and fake plants.

    Still have some more questions however. For one, are apple and/or maple tree branches safe for use (after baking of course)? Have a bunch of them growing in the yard so that would be perfect. Also plan to put in a rock or two so it has a rough surface to help with shedding, I've heard those should be boiled? Have lots of those to choose from at any rate (collected them as a kid).

    And I've ultimately decided to go with the 30 gallon I already have since it's on a nice stand and will make the display look nice. I'm aware that's rather big for a young one but I'll put in extra hides and foliage clutter so it can feel as secure as possible. I plan to use tinfoil to cover half or more of the top for humidity, but should the foil go over the heated side or non-heated side? I'm assuming the former since the water bowl with be partially over the heat pad and that will help maintain humidity. Also what can I use to cover the three tank sides that can either be easily removed for cleaning or won't be affected by getting wet?

    Finally as for hides themselves, I know they like to be snug inside them but what's the generally recommended starting size(s)?

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Snagrio For This Useful Post:

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  10. #48
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Hi,

    I can answer some of those.

    Generally fruit woods are pretty safe - the only really important ones not to use are those with toxic/ irritant sap if fresh. So cedar and pine are best avoided.

    Be carefull of the rocks - you need to use igneous ( Sp? ) rocks as anything containing air can explode when heating as the air expands. A good check is what is recommended to use as rocks surrounding a fire when camping as there is a lot of info online regarding this.

    I usually leave a small gap in tank covering on the cool side and obviously a larger gap surrounding the heating element side as this promotes a good natural airflow through convection.

    I normally keep the water on the cool side to help limit growth of bacteria but it really shouldn't be a problem if cage maintenance is up to spec.

    The insulation for tank covering/ privacy is best placed on the outside of the tank - polystyrene sheeting or cork sheeting is my preference with an aquarium backgrounds to improve the visuals between it and the glass. Cork sheets are thinner but what you chose will depend on the stand design it sits on etc. Either way they are outside of the glass so there is no issue with cleaning or dampness affecting them.

    For hides the thing people tend to forget is the height, snug in ALL directions works best. I use plant pot saucers a lot for smaller snakes and just cut and smooth an opening in the sides then flip them over. Plastic or glazed works better as, in the terracotta ones the snake can scuff their eyecaps ( drove me insane the first time I saw this on a snake and couldn't identify the problem ) while coiling inside the hide. For hatchlings I now use 4 inch pressed bamboo saucers and then order larger as needed.

    They are not the most attractive visually though so feel free to free think on alternatives.


    del
    Last edited by dr del; 08-22-2020 at 06:17 PM.
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

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    jmcrook (08-22-2020)

  12. #49
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    I'm sad. The coral glow I've had my eye on was sold mere days before I was ready to inquire for purchase. Knew I should've asked to put it on hold until I could get my setup ready.

  13. #50
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    So I've got just about everything set up and almost ready for a snake to move in, but I have a major problem. It seems like the heat is having issues penetrating the substrate enough. There's about 2 inches or so of coconut fiber and the temp gun doesn't even crack 80 Fahrenheit right over the heat pad, with the ambient temperature elsewhere in the enclosure hanging around 70. I push all the substrate away and the heat pad section's in the perfect sweet spot of 90-92, but that's only if it's down to the bare glass. The thermostat is cranked up to 108 (apparently as high as it can go, it's the Jump Start one) with it averaging out between 102-106, and the heat pad itself is a Zacro 12 x 8 inch, 16 watt for 30-40 gallon setups (which in my case is the former).

    The whole setup's been sitting there for a few hours so I'm know what the issue is. Maybe the fiber's just taking a long time to warm up because I didn't use warm water when sponging up the bricks (the water wasn't cold but a little cooler than room temperature)? Or should I just remove some of it period?

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