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  1. #31
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Misha View Post
    I'd put it right on the substrate and see how it goes. Even if your BP moves it, it's not a big deal because it doesn't control anything, like a thermostat would. Or you can suspend it down and let it hang almost touching the bottom and then tape it on the outside of the terrarium so it doesn't drop down further. Kinda like this:

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    That second option sounds perfect, definitely going to try that. You've been a tremendous help, can't thank you enough.

  2. #32
    BPnet Senior Member Mr. Misha's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagrio View Post
    That second option sounds perfect, definitely going to try that. You've been a tremendous help, can't thank you enough.
    No worries at all. You can dm me if you have any additional questions.

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    0.1 Reg. BP Het. Albino (Faye),
    1.0 Albino BP (Henry),
    0.1 Pastave BP Het. Pied (Kira)
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  3. #33
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    So I've been cruising around Morph Market a lot (don't worry I'm just browsing for now, won't make a move until I have everything I need, set up and running to the desired specifications) and I've noticed many are on live prey. Question is if I get one that's on live feed should I not try F/T until after a few feedings post-arrival? And yes I am aware that it needs about a week to itself to settle in and adjust from the move before feeding period.

  4. #34
    BPnet Senior Member Mr. Misha's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagrio View Post
    So I've been cruising around Morph Market a lot (don't worry I'm just browsing for now, won't make a move until I have everything I need, set up and running to the desired specifications) and I've noticed many are on live prey. Question is if I get one that's on live feed should I not try F/T until after a few feedings post-arrival? And yes I am aware that it needs about a week to itself to settle in and adjust from the move before feeding period.
    To be safe, I'd have him take 3 consecutive meals before switching. With that said, it also depends on your comfort level and the weight of the BP.

    You may want to pose that question to the breeder and see what they suggest. If the BP has a strong food drive, then you may want to try and give ft right off thr bat.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    0.1 Reg. BP Het. Albino (Faye),
    1.0 Albino BP (Henry),
    0.1 Pastave BP Het. Pied (Kira)
    1.0 Pied BP (Sam)
    1.0 Bumble Bee BP (Izzy)

  5. #35
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Misha View Post
    To be safe, I'd have him take 3 consecutive meals before switching. With that said, it also depends on your comfort level and the weight of the BP.

    You may want to pose that question to the breeder and see what they suggest. If the BP has a strong food drive, then you may want to try and give ft right off thr bat.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Sounds about right then. I guess to add further, I'm just about 100% positive that whatever affordable morph I get (I've decided to try and pay under $400 including shipping so piebalds and the "colorless" axanthics are about out the window unless I get lucky, have started looking at bananas and coral glows instead), it's going to be male. And given that males are generally smaller than females at adult size are they okay with large mice their whole lives or do they still need to transition to rats at some point? Unless I manage to get one that's already been started on rats as I've seen a number of babies on there already started on them.

  6. #36
    BPnet Senior Member Mr. Misha's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagrio View Post
    Sounds about right then. I guess to add further, I'm just about 100% positive that whatever affordable morph I get (I've decided to try and pay under $400 including shipping so piebalds and the "colorless" axanthics are about out the window unless I get lucky, have started looking at bananas and coral glows instead), it's going to be male. And given that males are generally smaller than females at adult size are they okay with large mice their whole lives or do they still need to transition to rats at some point? Unless I manage to get one that's already been started on rats as I've seen a number of babies on there already started on them.
    You can definitely find a Piebald for that price shipped. I know Mike Wilbanks has a couple around that price because I've been stalking his site for a Banana Pied female. You'll find Bananas for much lower than that.

    Male is a good way to go but once fully grown, a large mouse won't be enough for him. You'll have to either end up on a small rat or feed 2-3 large mice per feeding.

    Most breeders feed rats from the start because it's what they breed.
    0.1 Reg. BP Het. Albino (Faye),
    1.0 Albino BP (Henry),
    0.1 Pastave BP Het. Pied (Kira)
    1.0 Pied BP (Sam)
    1.0 Bumble Bee BP (Izzy)

  7. #37
    BPnet Veteran Snagrio's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Misha View Post
    You can definitely find a Piebald for that price shipped. I know Mike Wilbanks has a couple around that price because I've been stalking his site for a Banana Pied female. You'll find Bananas for much lower than that.

    Male is a good way to go but once fully grown, a large mouse won't be enough for him. You'll have to either end up on a small rat or feed 2-3 large mice per feeding.

    Most breeders feed rats from the start because it's what they breed.
    Sorry that was a typo I meant $300 (which seems to be the benchmark for piebalds). I suppose I could bite the bullet if I really really want one though, but the bananas/coral glows have also been catching my eye as of late. Really digging the gray, almost purplish colors against the brighter yellows.

    Again though, I'll have plenty of time before making a choice.

  8. #38
    BPnet Senior Member Mr. Misha's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagrio View Post
    Sorry that was a typo I meant $300 (which seems to be the benchmark for piebalds). I suppose I could bite the bullet if I really really want one though, but the bananas/coral glows have also been catching my eye as of late. Really digging the gray, almost purplish colors against the brighter yellows.

    Again though, I'll have plenty of time before making a choice.
    I'm right there with you. Bananas are gorgeous!

    Yea, don't hurry. They live 20+ years so you want to make sure you get the "right one".
    0.1 Reg. BP Het. Albino (Faye),
    1.0 Albino BP (Henry),
    0.1 Pastave BP Het. Pied (Kira)
    1.0 Pied BP (Sam)
    1.0 Bumble Bee BP (Izzy)

  9. #39
    Registered User noodle.obsessed's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Quote Originally Posted by Snagrio;2741754
    Also been having more thoughts on bedding. Seems like everyone has a different opinion on the stuff and I'm honestly at a loss now. I have tons of newspaper so that'd be a nice free option but then it doesn't look as nice and doesn't hold moisture as well. But then I see people mention how coconut fiber has gotten stuck in their snake's mouths and how its humidity-holding properties aren't as important for ball pythons compared to other more humidity-loving reptiles so it's like...
    I have a bioactive enclosure so I obviously use loose substrate, if you are worried about ingesting you can cover the top layer with large leaf litter and when feeding you can put them on top of a plastic lid in the enclosure or something that isn't the substrate but some snakes won't eat even after just being moved in the enclosure a little. The way I think about it is that they digest bones so a bit of soft substrate probably isn't gonna be detrimental.
    Also remember that they need higher humidity when shedding so the substrate has to be able to handle this.
    I'm sure you know but don't use pine or cedar or any wood that secretes oils, even kiln dried is risky!
    One last thing (even though you haven't mentioned it) I wouldn't recommend aspen, even though they live in a pretty lowish humidity place they spend basically all their time in more humid places like rodent burrows and stuff - it also rots really easily!

  10. #40
    Registered User noodle.obsessed's Avatar
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    Re: (Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

    Also just a tip for enrichment, they love climbing from time to time - males and juviniles are also sometimes classed as semi arboreal and researchers have found a main diet for males in the wild is birds in trees!

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