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  1. #1
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    Question My ball python wont eat!

    Hi guys, need some help.

    I just got a butter ball python, it's about 4 months old now. husbandry are all correct (temperature/humidity).
    the first month i got her she was only a month old, she ate small pinkies and was fine every week, i change her water everyday too. kept her bedding replaced every week aswell.
    she was always quite scared, held her about once a month and she use to be fine.. quite calm. she's even shed twice since and they came out beautifully in one piece.

    But now she's been acting so aggressive towards me going near the tank, and is in this striking mode chasing my hand around when im trying to replace her water etc. it's to the point im so scared to put my hands near her tub.
    when i try to feed her, she attacks the tongs and my hands instead of the frozen-thaw velvet pinkie i give her.. and i get too scared to put my tongs back in to pick up the rat again to point it back to her. so i leave it in for a few hours till she goes in the hide so i can safely pick the rat back up and throw it out without her aggressively coming to strike at me (cowardly i know eventhough i know its a tiny snake and its bite doesnt hurt). but i'm still hella scared. it's my first snake and ive done months of research before actually getting one, but she has mood swings T_T and im a coward..

    past few days she's been calm again.. sleeping with her head out the cave cuz i know she just wants to check out her surroundings.. then when i attempt to feed her (i know she's in feeding mode) but why are my tongs and hands the victim when the food is right under her belly.. help.
    and please forgive me if ive been doing something wrong, im here to learn from you guys and any sort of kind advice would be alot appreciated. is there something im missing?

  2. #2
    Registered User Absololol's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python wont eat!

    Welcome!

    You say temp and humidity is correct but a lot of people say this and end up being wrong. I don't wanna doubt you, but what temps and humidity are you at? The shedding is a good sign.

    First off even rat pinkies are too small for any ball python, even a hatchling I'd say. A 4 month old should not be on pinkies. I would move up to fuzzies ASAP. Could even use small weaners. Depends on the build but at 4 months mine was on large fuzzies/small weaners.

    How are you offering the food? It sounds like she might be mistaking your hands and their warmness for the food instead of the pinky because of how small it is, actually. If the pinky isn't being continually reheated it's going to be cold and boring and your hands will still be warm and smell of rat, which might be confusing.

    I found this method helpful:

    *Defrost the rodent in cool water, in the same room as the snake so she can smell it as it defrosts
    *Once it's defrosted (check no 'hard' parts under the skin, lungs/organs are last to defrost) use a hairdryer to heat up the rodent, pay special attention to the head as this is the hotter part biologically and helps them aim for the head right
    *Do this in the dark! Bps are nocturnal and utilise their smell and heat sensing better in the dark
    *Snakes can 'see' heat so make sure you aren't too close, seeing a big blob of human sized heat can put them off. Try to position yourself out of sight and use the tongs to grip the rodent by the midsection. Do a little dance with it, as if it's just walking past... After all that's how it goes in the wild.
    *If no interest, or failed strike, reheat a few times. If no interest after that, a final reheat and leave it at the door of the hide overnight and remove if uneaten.

    Sitting with head poking out is a good sign she wants to eat.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Absololol; 08-07-2020 at 07:54 AM.

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  4. #3
    BPnet Royalty Zincubus's Avatar
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    My ball python wont eat!

    I have no idea what a ‘velvet pinkie’ is but if it’s a mouse then it’s too small in my opinion.

    Small mice for young Royal Ball pythons ..

    Then try the hairdryer trick as mentioned in the previous post

    ( feed evenings , when it’s settled under a hide - in low / dim light)

    ::::
    Hairdryer method.

    I let the frozen rodents thaw naturally in the snake room for a few hours then in the evening most of the snakes are ready and waiting ( even drooling lol) .. then a 5 to 10 second blast with a hairdryer and BOOM .
    It works 99% of the time but if the snake is determined to fast or it’s going into shed mode then just leave it 7 to 10 days .
    The thing about the hairdryer trick is that it’s a ‘method ‘ really .. feed evenings, dim or low lighting , wait until the snake is well settled under a hide ( or has its head peeling out ) then blast the mouse /rat with hairdryer and INSTANTLY dangle it in front of the hide entrance for them to drag under and eat . If it doesn’t get it first time but shows even the slightest interest then they will take it if you repeat the method each time . It’s important to get the warm meal to the hide entrance immediately so their heat pits can kick in ( that’s where the dim lighting helps as well as keeping them calm )


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    Last edited by Zincubus; 08-07-2020 at 08:05 AM.




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    Re: My ball python wont eat!

    Here's a feeding chart to help you out.

    Your snake is chasing your hand because she's HUNGRY!!! She hasn't been fed a proper meal yet. What you're feeding is way too small.

    You're also adding unnecessary stress to both you and the snake by going in every day to change water. Every few days is fine as long as there is always clean water available.
    There's no need to change substrate weekly either. Every month or so is fine as long as you're spot cleaning any waste.

    I admire your commitment to cleanliness, but you're actually going overboard. Basically, don't open the enclosure unless you have to.

    Get your girl on appropriately sized meals and you'll see her mellow out, I can almost guarantee it.

    As for striking your tongs/hand. It's either because the prey isn't warm enough or because it's too small...or a combination of the two.
    She's bypassing the prey because it's too small. She smells food, but picks up the heat signature from your hand looking right past the rat because she doesn't recognize it as prey.

    Get her some appropriately sized prey and you'll see a difference almost immediately.

    Sent from my 6062W using Tapatalk

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    Smile Re: My ball python wont eat!

    I would like to say Thank You so much everyone for taking the time to reply to my question. I'm a python newbie and am so appreciative of all your advice.

    - As for the temperature and humidity, it's hot as 94F hot side and 75F cool side and the humidity level is at 60%.
    - As for the hairdyer trick, i'm going to try again tomorrow and see how it works.
    - Rat Velvet is the size of a Rat Fuzzy.. sorry the breeder says this so i assumed it's global
    - I'll also try the heating and dancing her prey infront of her hide
    - And yeah, I'm just a 'clean freak' even in my own home so yeah maybe i went overboard and is stressing her out by going in her tank too much to replace water, spot clean etc. I will lessen this frequency. And changing her bedding once a month is also on my list now.

    And advice on handling because i'm too cowardly to handle her at all T_T its to the point im thinking of getting a reptile glove.

    Will try all these tomorrow.
    Thank you so much everyone, please feel free to bombard more advice wherever necessary. Advice to a newbie is needed
    Last edited by Mercy; 08-07-2020 at 09:32 AM.

  9. #6
    Registered User Absololol's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python wont eat!

    95 F is a little on the hot side. Generally you want to stick between 88-92F for your hot side. I'd get the temperatures down just a little. But your humidity sounds good, hopefully you have some success with the tips.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

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    Yeah, I'd get that hot side temp down. I personally never go above 90 and shoot for 88-89.

    The cool side could come up too. 75 is the absolute minimum you want. I aim for around 78-80.

    That's exactly why we ask when people say their husbandry is good without providing the actual info.

    You also don't want to offer food too often, that can stress the snake as well and lead to further refusals.


    As for handling, if you feel more comfortable with a glove go for it. But I think it's unnecessary. A bite from a juvenile BP hurts less than a stubbed toe, a cat scratch, a paper cut, biting your cheek, etc...etc...

    For now, hold off on handling entirely until the snake is eating reliably. I suggest 3 meals without refusal.

    Once you're ready to start handling she won't be so hungry, so not aggressive. The biggest thing is to go in with confidence. Stay calm, don't come in from above (as much as can be avoided) and have confidence.

    Many people suggest starting with short sessions, but I've actually had more success with longer handling sessions over the past few years.
    Think of it this way...every time you pick the snake up it stresses the snake. So if you pick her up, hold her for 5-10 minutes and put her back she's likely still stressed. Allowing 20+ minutes gives the snake time to relax, know you're not a predator, and acclimate to new scents and surroundings. Then when you put her back she won't associate you picking her up with stress. She'll recognize your scent and know you're not a predator.

    Good luck! We're here if you have more questions!!

  11. #8
    Registered User Igotsmallballs's Avatar
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    Re: My ball python wont eat!

    Quote Originally Posted by Craiga 01453 View Post
    Yeah, I'd get that hot side temp down. I personally never go above 90 and shoot for 88-89.

    The cool side could come up too. 75 is the absolute minimum you want. I aim for around 78-80.

    That's exactly why we ask when people say their husbandry is good without providing the actual info.

    You also don't want to offer food too often, that can stress the snake as well and lead to further refusals.


    As for handling, if you feel more comfortable with a glove go for it. But I think it's unnecessary. A bite from a juvenile BP hurts less than a stubbed toe, a cat scratch, a paper cut, biting your cheek, etc...etc...

    For now, hold off on handling entirely until the snake is eating reliably. I suggest 3 meals without refusal.

    Once you're ready to start handling she won't be so hungry, so not aggressive. The biggest thing is to go in with confidence. Stay calm, don't come in from above (as much as can be avoided) and have confidence.

    Many people suggest starting with short sessions, but I've actually had more success with longer handling sessions over the past few years.
    Think of it this way...every time you pick the snake up it stresses the snake. So if you pick her up, hold her for 5-10 minutes and put her back she's likely still stressed. Allowing 20+ minutes gives the snake time to relax, know you're not a predator, and acclimate to new scents and surroundings. Then when you put her back she won't associate you picking her up with stress. She'll recognize your scent and know you're not a predator.

    Good luck! We're here if you have more questions!!
    I completely believe in letting the snake break it’s fear/predator behavior before putting them back. Given enough time. They will start moving around and becoming more calm.

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  13. #9
    Registered User Igotsmallballs's Avatar
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    Also. We like to lay flat in bed. With the snake on top of our chest or stomach. We just feel as though it makes it easier on the snake

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