Behaviour of ball python in feeding mode

[Faith.luu]

Hi, I'm wondering if someone could give me insight on the various behaviours of a ball python that is hungry or is in feeding mode. This might be a little long but I thought having some pretence on my situation might help.

I currently have a nine month old juvenile ball python(Unfortunately don't know her weight). I've had her for 2 weeks now. On the fifth day of having her I attempted to feed her at night. I left a f/t rat fuzzy outside of her hide, placed a towel over her enclosure, and left her for the night. I woke up the next morning very pleased after I saw that the rat was gone. I left her alone for the full 48 hours. Its been 8 days since that night and she hasn't accepted a meal since. I've executed the same procedure but she doesn't seem to want to eat.

In terms of handling, before the first successful meal, I handled her twice, the 2nd day I got her, and the 4th. I left her alone for the day that I was going to feed her. After her first meal, I left her alone for 2 days. After the two days, I've handled her about every other day aside from the days I've tried to feed her.

Ive attempted to feed her on the 6th and 8th day (after successfully feeding her) with no success. (She ate successfully on Tuesday night, which is why I fed her on the next Tuesday night; the 8th day). I know that she is due to eat because the rat that I gave her is a little bit smaller than what she should be eating(slightly larger or the same than the widest part of her body), and that juveniles need to eat every 5-7 days. Once thing I noticed about 4 days ago from today, was that around 8-9pm she would have her head and a little bit of her neck sticking out of her hide, slightly poised and in a slight s shape. She would not watch me/follow me. She would just remain like that for about an hour, looking straight ahead, and then hide again. A few hours later she would come out and explore like she usually does. And this has been consistent since. I'm wondering if this is her waiting for prey or something.

My husbandry is definitely up to par. I keep a hot side of 34 degrees celsius, ambient of 26, and cool side of 22. I know thats a little bit cold but I live in Alberta, Canada. I do use a room heater to keep the room temperature to 23 from time to time(mostly for me because it can get pretty cold). I've got a single entrance hide on each side, a water bowl, a climbing branch and foliage with enough ground space for her to stretch out. Her humidity ranges from 70-80%. I know 80 is a little on the high side but I find that when its lower she will hide under the damp towel that I use to keep up the humidity rather than using the other hides in her enclosure. She definitely seems happy and relaxed too. She hides all throughout the day and comes out for about 2 hours to explore at night before she hides again. She comes out more later on but I'm usually sleeping by then. She hasn't shown any signs of stress like pacing around the edge of her enclosure, excessively trying to escape, or consistently moving about during the day.

So I'm hoping someone could give me some tips on what this new behaviour that she has been doing means. (I have tried to feed her on nights that she has acted this way; 6th and 8th) As well as some other things that ball pythons will do when they're in feeding mode. I've done some research but always find the typical behaviours like tracking, and lots of tongue flicks. I've also looked into methods for getting a ball python to eat but the primary thing they'll always mention is husbandry, which I think I'm doing a good job on. However if there is something that I am doing wrong or something I should give a try please let me know. I was also wondering if someone might be able to answer; is there a way to put your snake into feeding mode? and if so how?. I have tried looking this up and have only really been told that I could make the room smell like rat or to thaw out the rat next to her enclosure to get her into that mode, although I found it didn't really work. Any information that you have helps a lot. Thank you for your time.

[Lord Sorril]

Young ball pythons are prone to stress and defensive behavior. Stop handling her until she is eating weekly for at least a month. Then do not handle her until 48 hours after she has eaten.

Do keep in mind that young ball pythons shed frequently as they grow--this can take over a week-and during this time some of them will refuse meals.

Offering food repeatedly creates stress and makes it less likely for the snake to accept the prey item. Only offer once/week-if you get a rejection-then do not offer again until the following week.

Do get a scale and do measure the prey item to make sure it is enough food relative to the weight of the snake. There are multiple feeding charts available online-they are good for guidance.

Your hot spot created by a UTH should not exceed 32.2C (90F). Your ambient temperature should not fall below 25.5C (78F). Both heat sources should be regulated by thermostats. Small ball pythons are forgiving with temperature variation in a large enclosure, large ball pythons in a small enclosure are not.

As for behavioral cues regarding hunger: I ignore them. I stick to a schedule. Over time you can start to identify a pattern with each individual ball python.

[vivi]

Young ball pythons are prone to stress and defensive behavior. Stop handling her until she is eating weekly for at least a month. Then do not handle her until 48 hours after she has eaten.

Do keep in mind that young ball pythons shed frequently as they grow--this can take over a week-and during this time some of them will refuse meals.

Offering food repeatedly creates stress and makes it less likely for the snake to accept the prey item. Only offer once/week-if you get a rejection-then do not offer again until the following week.

Do get a scale and do measure the prey item to make sure it is enough food relative to the weight of the snake. There are multiple feeding charts available online-they are good for guidance.

Your hot spot created by a UTH should not exceed 32.2C (90F). Your ambient temperature should not fall below 25.5C (78F). Both heat sources should be regulated by thermostats. Small ball pythons are forgiving with temperature variation in a large enclosure, large ball pythons in a small enclosure are not.

As for behavioral cues regarding hunger: I ignore them. I stick to a schedule. Over time you can start to identify a pattern with each individual ball python.

I agree completely.

In terms of handling, before the first successful meal, I handled her twice, the 2nd day I got her, and the 4th. I left her alone for the day that I was going to feed her. After her first meal, I left her alone for 2 days. After the two days, I've handled her about every other day aside from the days I've tried to feed her.


My husbandry is definitely up to par. I keep a hot side of 34 degrees celsius, ambient of 26, and cool side of 22. I know thats a little bit cold but I live in Alberta, Canada. I do use a room heater to keep the room temperature to 23 from time to time(mostly for me because it can get pretty cold). I've got a single entrance hide on each side, a water bowl, a climbing branch and foliage with enough ground space for her to stretch out. Her humidity ranges from 70-80%. I know 80 is a little on the high side but I find that when its lower she will hide under the damp towel that I use to keep up the humidity rather than using the other hides in her enclosure. .

One, you should wait at least a week before handling her after you´ve gotten her. Transportation is very stressful for snakes and you should let them settle in before even considering handling them. We are past that now though. Do not handle her the day before feeding, the day of and two days after. Until she is feeding regularly, wait 2 or more days and then you can begin handling.

Two, as mentioned above, your husbandry is not ¨definitely up to par¨.

Three, STICK TO A SCHEDULE. Don´t just feed your snake whenever they ¨seem hungry¨, that will prove to be problematic.

The advice Lord Sorril gave is correct, I advise you to follow it.

[Faith.luu]

Okay will make those changes to her temperature and make sure she is eating regularly before handling. Thank you for letting me know.

[Craiga 01453]

You got some good advice above, however I disagree on one aspect...
I don't feed any of my snakes on a strict schedule once they hit about a year old. It's not like they wake up on Wednesday and think "oh good, it's Wednesday, I can eat today". They're opportunistic feeders who eat when they can for the most part.

I've learned to "read" my animals and most will start to display hunting behavior when they're ready to eat. My Borneo STP I can't figure out at all.

My BPs are actually the most reliable using this method. Since I started using this technique I have had ZERO refusals. They eat every 10-14 days and maintain healthy weight and body structure.

I simply wait until I see the snake poking his head out of his hide on consecutive nights. I offer on night 3 and so far no refusals.
I'd rather them eat every 10-14 days year round then weekly for months, then stop for a while... I have zero difficulty with "picky" or "finicky" BPs.

[vivi]

You got some good advice above, however I disagree on one aspect...
I don't feed any of my snakes on a strict schedule once they hit about a year old. It's not like they wake up on Wednesday and think "oh good, it's Wednesday, I can eat today". They're opportunistic feeders who eat when they can for the most part.

I've learned to "read" my animals and most will start to display hunting behavior when they're ready to eat. My Borneo STP I can't figure out at all.

My BPs are actually the most reliable using this method. Since I started using this technique I have had ZERO refusals. They eat every 10-14 days and maintain healthy weight and body structure.

I simply wait until I see the snake poking his head out of his hide on consecutive nights. I offer on night 3 and so far no refusals.
I'd rather them eat every 10-14 days year round then weekly for months, then stop for a while... I have zero difficulty with "picky" or "finicky" BPs.

Good point! They do not need a militantly STRICT schedule, hence what you´ll see in most care guides, juveniles every 5-7 days, adults every 10-14, its not ONLY FEED EVERY 7 DAYS OR YOUR SNAKE WILL DIE or as mentioned above,the snake thinks ¨oh boy its feeding day¨. They don´t know when their next meal will come, so when they get hungry and show feeding behaviors its probably a good time to offer food. Makes perfect sense, thanks for the tip by the way!

Lord Sorril, If the schedule works for you, then great.

I have heard to get them interested you can somehow make the room smell like their prey, they´ll be like ooh boy where is that food- Anyone tried this?

[Craiga 01453]

I have heard to get them interested you can somehow make the room smell like their prey, they´ll be like ooh boy where is that food- Anyone tried this?

Yup, that's a trick to let them know there's food nearby. I let mine defrost in my kitchen since all my snakes are in one room. I don't want the whole crew thinking they're eating, especially if I plan to handle any that night (which is most night).
But then about an hour before feeding time I out the prey in the room and heat it in the room.

[Craiga 01453]

I should also clarify that I definitely don't mean feeding on a schedule isn't a good way to feed. It is, I just choose a different route that works for me and my animals.

There isn't one "right way". I was just sharing my experience. If feeding on a schedule works for you and your animals then by all means do it.