Ball Python Scared Of Food! Please Help!

[mickumacku]

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and appreciate all help given!

I currently have a bp who is terrified of food. I have had him for 3 months and he is young. He has always given me issues while eating and he did not eat for the first 3 weeks I had him (attempted once a week with f/t warmed with water and then blowdried to 90 degrees). He has absolutely no prey drive and will always shy away from food--Even if you are being gentle about it. I've found that the only way to get him to eat is to slowly thaw the rat in water, blowdry it, and leave it outside his hide overnight. He also takes hours to even eat it. I also feed him at night.

And before anyone asks the husbandry should be spot on (80 cool, 90 hot, 58% humidity with a humidity box and multiple hides in a tub). I also did not handle him until he had 3 successful meals. He is actually very calm with handling. I also do not handle the day before feeding (and 2 days after of course).

Regardless, I had to size up (fuzzy to weaned) because he has grown significantly. He shows even more fear when I show him the food, however! He balls up (or tries to flee if you put it closer from him) and starts hyperventilating immediately!! He seems to be very intimidated by the size! And rats in general. He will not eat the weaned rats that are left overnight.

I just want to get him to eat correctly sized meals, but don't know why he's so afraid of food! Please help!

[Sp0rk]

Were you feeding rats or mice in the first place? Might just be he doesnt like the way the rat smells. Some BPs are picky that way. Maybe try a mouse feeder. I know the first few months was tricky with my BP sometimes she didnt want to eat and was just scared. IMO it's just a BP doing what a BP does-- going off food ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. They are somewhat notorious for going off food for a plethora of reasons: shedding, stress, colder months etc to name a few. Sometimes theres no reason. If you think the size is making him nervous, go back down and feed more frequently (ie. 2 times a week) until more confidence is gained. I think hes just going off food though and if you keep offering it stresses them out. I'd wait at least 3-4 days between each refusal just to let them destress, eventually they decide to eat again lol. If you have serious concerns though take him to an exotic vet. I know my girl was really nervous the first few feedings but has been a great eater ever since. I also dont recommend leaving a f/t mouse out over night haha

[Absololol]

Maybe he's scared of you or shy about striking when you're around. Our new ball python wasn't feeding and we found that even if she seemed interested and didn't show obviously that she was scared of us, she was hesitant to strike whilst a big looming warm human was over her with a little mouse. Do you use tongs and do you feed him in the dark? Pythons 'hunt' through heat so if there's a warm human and a warm mouse in front of that human they might blend and cause confusion.

What helped me was using long tongs and then stepping behind her so she couldn't see me, and using the tongs to 'dance' with the feeder in front of her so it was the only thing she could see. Without me in the picture she took it really fast!

I suggest this cause you said you have to leave it for him to take it - he might just be a super shy eater and not want to eat whilst you're around.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[mickumacku]

The ones he takes are f/t fuzzy rats so he should be used to the smell. I have tried feeding him mice once in the past (as that’s what the breeder fed) which he didn’t take. I did notice when attempting to feed him he is looking exclusively at the food and not me but have tried feeding him from behind to see if he will eat if I’m hidden. Sadly it made no difference! I do wish he would take immediately because I am afraid of bacteria growing when it’s left out, but I would rather him eat then starve. I’m guessing he has always been picky as when I got him he was definitely on the thin side.

[Lord Sorril]

And before anyone asks the husbandry should be spot on (80 cool, 90 hot, 58% humidity with a humidity box and multiple hides in a tub)

78-80F should be your air temperature at any given point in your enclosure. Your basking spot (powered by a under tank heater--should have a *surface* temp around 90F). If you are running a gradient from 80-90F air temp. in the enclosure then it is too hot---not always a problem with smaller snakes, but, as they grow, definitely a problem as they get larger.

A picture of your setup would also help us to determine if the layout/style is contributing to stress.

Regardless, some snakes are just poor eaters.

[mickumacku]

I do also use tongs to feed him! The dancing seems to throw him off even more so but I can try again to see if it will work (He is so strange?? I’m wondering if his brain is slightly off. He is a stinger bee and does have a slight wobble). Sadly showing from behind doesn’t seem to do anything as he is always very focused on the food. You make a good point about the heat though! Thankfully though I checked his enclosure this morning and he did take the f/t weaned rat and is chilling happily in his hut. Maybe as he gets older he will relax more and take from the tongs. I’ll keep trying until then! Thank you all!

[mickumacku]

By 90F I did mean basking/surface temp! Sorry I was not more specific! I do use a fancy heat gun which tells me ambient temps, surface temps, and humidity levels! I will try and figure out how to upload photos to give you guys a better idea of his setup.

[Annageckos]

Some BP are just shy feeders. My girl is like that. She hides from the rats but will come out later if I leave it in her tub to eat. She will strike at smaller rats, but either way she eats. If your snake will eat by just leaving the rat in the tub then great, feed him that way. I do suggest heating up the rat warmer though, about 100F is body temp. I go a little warmer than that.