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  1. #11
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    Re: Help with new setup

    Quote Originally Posted by Turningstar View Post
    Any substrate that can hold moisture, like reptile prime and reptibark are good. Even newspaper or paper towels work for quarantine. NOT aspen. It molds when wet.

    A tub with a hot side (heating pad about 90į with a hide over it, and an identical hide on the cool side of the tub). Ambient temps all around at 78-80 degrees. Humidity at 50-60%, higher when shedding. You can tell because their eyes go blue.
    I would suggest a larger water dish. Pythons will occasionally climb in them, especially if humidity is too low for shedding. If the tubs are too open, add more hides and things to clutter it up. Hides should be snug on the snake, with only one opening so they feel secure. They should be identical so they do not choose safety over thermoregulation.

    There is a really good feeding chart on here that tells sizes and frequency of feeding. I would check that out.

    Also, in case I missed it above....
    House the snakes separately. Pythons are solitary. They only go together when breeding and are then separated again. And honestly, I hope you dont try to breed them for a long time so that you can learn all you can about them to be successful in any breeding ventures.

    Good luck with your new snakes.

    Sent from my LM-X220 using Tapatalk
    Thank you for the great information. This helps me out a lot. I feel like I am getting to the point between what I am being told here and research I am doing that I can feed them with confidence and can provide the basics for these snakes to make them comfortable and happy until I am able to really figure out what works for me. Thank you to everyone for their responses and please, keep them coming if you have anything to add. This is very helpful and interesting to me.

    I will definitely change out the bedding based on this recommendation. That is great information for me to have. How often should the bedding be replaced?

    As for a water dish and hides, can you recommend an estimate on the sizes that I should have? I guess I have no idea really how large these snakes will end up getting. I know the length but have no idea about the girth and have no idea how small they will be when in a ball either.

    Thank you for the information about the feeding chart. I will certainly look that up.

    Yes, I figured they needed to be kept separate but was getting confused by everything I was reading, etc. I will definitely keep them separate then.

    As for breeding, I am what I would consider a very responsible breeder. I love these animals and only want what is best for them. I have read in many places that you should not breed ball pythons until the male is 1 year old and the female is 2 years old. Since the female is only 1 year old, that gives me at least one more year before I will begin to do that.

    Having said that, I am doing a lot of research and learning a lot and know I still have a very long way to go and a ton to learn (I never seem to stop learning with any of my animals and am very excited when I learn new things). Is there anywhere that anyone knows that is a good place to start with genetics of ball pythons? Specifically I am wondering if there is a way to find out the exact genetics of the snakes I was given. When I asked the people who gave them to me they said they bought them as "Normals" but didn't really know their genetics. In leopard geckos it is extremely to know the genetics, I am assuming it is the same with ball pythons.

    Thank you again for all your help.
    Last edited by PaysonHobbyist; 01-09-2020 at 04:59 PM.

  2. #12
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    Re: Help with new setup

    You can spot clean the tank when they poop and do a complete cleanout once a month and replace all the substrate.
    As far as water dish size, I cant say. Thats going to be determined by the amount of floor space your tub has. A ceramic dog bowl works great.

    As far as genetics, youd have to find the original breeder and ask if they have something.

    Sent from my LM-X220 using Tapatalk

  3. #13
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    12-18-2019
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    Cheap set up

    I had a 100 dollar budget and bought everything I need most people donít know but pet smart price matches. We used an old terrarium we had from a previous reptile. I got a dog bowl, substrate And a large

    heat pad. I am building a 75 gallon terrarium that cost about seventy five dollars in total. For a hide I went to Walmart and bought a plastic shoe box and cut a hole for her to go through she doesnít use it but I have another hide which is joust a hollow log. I went out and got some leaves and she loves to hide in those so sprinkle a little every where and then make a big mound in a corner. The rule of thumb for feeding is the mouse should be around the size of the largest particles their body so they donít get fat. You can use tongs but you donít need to, it helps to wiggle the mouse in their face to incite life. If their shy then put it in their terrarium and let them eat it themselves also donít hold them for 24 hours after feeding so as not to make them throw up if they throw up donít just keep feeding them take them to a vet and thereís something that starts with an L that settles their stomach. On YouTube there is a guy I watch called Brian Barczyk and he is fun and helpful. And on a final note there is a very friendly reptile called a tegu thatís doesnít need a cage it just needs a heat lamp and some doggy pee pads. People use them as guards because if a giant lizard was coming my way I would be scared. But they are very tame and they Iíll walk on leashes and a harness if taught. And if itís a glass terrarium you need to cover the cool side with a sheet

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