Ball python not eating

[Tattoobeauty90]

My uncle had a digital thermometer that I could use and her warm side is showing 80.4 F and cool side is 79.15 F. Her humidity is always between 50 and 60 unless she is shedding and I bumb it to 70 75.

[Bogertophis]

...
4. Mouse fuzzies
5. I use warm water submerge for 20 minutes and I feel it to make sure it dont feel cold anywhere before I feed her...

Not only should the prey not be cold, but you need to actually WARM it up so it seems life-like to a BP, because BPs are one of the kinds of snakes that relies on their
heat-sensing pits to identify their prey.

You were apparently lucky the first few times you fed her...her hunger won out, but for best results I'd recommend immersing prey in very warm water briefly, but only
AFTER thawing completely in cold water, before offering...& many here take an additional step of using a blow-dryer immediately before offering the prey to their BPs.

If you do this, I believe your problem will be solved.

[Tattoobeauty90]

Yes it is similar.

[Tattoobeauty90]

I am gonna try the thawing instructions you gave me. When I was done checking the temperatures I actually noticed that her underneath heating pad had came loose. So I'm gonna try to tape it back and see how the temperature on her heated side measures after that.

[Zincubus]

The warm hide surface temps should be nearer 90F ...


Also those plastic stick on dial thermometers are useless !!

Try and get a digital thermometer off eBay - only about £2 or : 3 dollars


Or a ten quid digital temp gun off eBay .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Stewart_Reptiles]

My uncle had a digital thermometer that I could use and her warm side is showing 80.4 F and cool side is 79.15 F. Her humidity is always between 50 and 60 unless she is shedding and I bumb it to 70 75.

Your snake is never gonna eat if you do not provide proper husbandry and 80.4 on warm side is not proper husbandry, and considering the temps it's actually better that it does not eat, eating with low temperatures that do not facilitate digestion is only gonna lead to regurgitation.

And by the rest I will still assume that you do not have a thermostat which that will lead to burn and fire hazard.

Again you still have a lot of research to do because obviously research have not been done.

Husbandry should be your first priority feeding the second, if the first one is not met the second will not occur.

[Tattoobeauty90]

The warm hide surface temps should be nearer 90F ...


Also those plastic stick on dial thermometers are useless !!

Try and get a digital thermometer off eBay - only about £2 or : 3 dollars


Or a ten quid digital temp gun off eBay .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I had plan on getting the infrared one when I got paid. But I will definitely check into the digital.

[Tattoobeauty90]

I wouldn't handle until she's eaten 3 meals straight again.






This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-. Less if smaller prey and longer if bigger prey (however longer does not hurt smaller prey).

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey - Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP on tongs. Wiggle gently to make it appear alive.

My uncle gave me a digital thermometer to use to check it. when I was testing I found out the heating pad had come off the bottom. I put it back on with tape and let it sit for a bit. The warm side has went from 80.4 to 88.3 so it's going up. I'm gonna give her a couple of days before I try to feed her again.

[dakski]

My uncle gave me a digital thermometer to use to check it. when I was testing I found out the heating pad had come off the bottom. I put it back on with tape and let it sit for a bit. The warm side has went from 80.4 to 88.3 so it's going up. I'm gonna give her a couple of days before I try to feed her again.

Digital thermometer or IR temp gun? The latter is what you really need to know ground temps.

I would unplug the heat pad unless you have it regulated by thermostat. Too hot is worse than too cool.

Over 92-93F, which a heat pad, unregulated will get too in no time, can start causing problems for your snake. Even a little hotter = neurological damage. A little hotter than that and she dies.

People on here have tried to gently warn you, and even some not so gently. You keep saying you are doing X, but we are telling you need to do Y, Z, A, and B.

Your snake = your responsibility.

I want you to understand this is life or death for you snake. Not just heat wise, but if she doesn't start eating for you soon, she won't make it either. As stated earlier, she will NOT eat for you until conditions are correct.

[Tattoobeauty90]

Digital thermometer or IR temp gun? The latter is what you really need to know ground temps.

I would unplug the heat pad unless you have it regulated by thermostat. Too hot is worse than too cool.

Over 92-93F, which a heat pad, unregulated will get too in no time, can start causing problems for your snake. Even a little hotter = neurological damage. A little hotter than that and she dies.

People on here have tried to gently warn you, and even some not so gently. You keep saying you are doing X, but we are telling you need to do Y, Z, A, and B.

Your snake = your responsibility.

I want you to understand this is life or death for you snake. Not just heat wise, but if she doesn't start eating for you soon, she won't make it either. As stated earlier, she will NOT eat for you until conditions are correct.

It was a digital thermometer because that's all he had and I didn't have any money until I got paid today. I purchased a infared thermometer and a temperature control unit. I understand it sounded like I was not listening. It is just that I had no way to purchase anything because I had no money. So I was trying to do what I could.