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  1. #1
    Registered User Jaime_ls3's Avatar
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    Chinese Water Dragon eye disease?

    So you all know Dragon the Chinese Water Dragon I got from petco over a month ago. He is now exactly 12 inches long snout to tip of tail and 4 inches snout to vent. I'm not sure of its age but it might be 6-10 months old?

    I took him to the vet 3 weeks ago to get a fecal exam and it got a negative for parasites. So that's good. Dragon got a physical check up. Not mouth rot, good bones, no rubing its snout onto the enclosure walls.

    Since yesterday I found the poor sucker inside its round cork bark and when I offered it food it came out and ate them like normal. Except one eye was not open.it could not open it. I could not open it. Its stuck.

    Dragon acted normal. Ate normal, freaked out normal. Had lots of energy, was very aware. Its enclosure is up to spec. Still going to wait a couplemlre months for its giant custom enclosure, if it survives that is.

    Hmm, I made an appointment but it will be till next week on wednesday. Is there anything I can do to help it before it goes to the vet? I k ow he might need antibiotics.

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  2. #2
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    I would personally consider any eye injury (to human OR pet) as an emergency, since eyes are, you know, rather important...

    So when you made this appointment, did you make it clear to the vet's office that this may be an emergency to prevent loss of vision or the eye of the pet?

    If not, I would call them back for a much sooner appointment. Antibiotics work much better BEFORE infections become extensive, and for all you know, he may
    have debris (a foreign object) in his eye causing the problem. I've had my share of eye injuries (corneal abrasions) over the years...few if any body parts become
    infected faster than eyes do, but they also can heal fast with proper & timely medical care by knowledgeable professionals.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
    Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)

  3. #3
    Registered User Jaime_ls3's Avatar
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    Re: Chinese Water Dragon eye disease?

    I did tell them it happened yesterday. They only have one exotic doctor and she is only there wednesday Thursdays and fridays and she booked this whole week. I can go earlier this week on which ever of those days if someone cancels and I'll get a call.

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    Bogertophis (09-30-2019)

  5. #4
    Bogertophis's Avatar
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    Sounds like their specialist is stretched pretty thin. I hope they get a cancellation & that either way, your pet has a good outcome. Keep us posted so all can learn.
    I'm a little surprised they didn't try to "work you in" anyway though.
    Last edited by Bogertophis; 09-30-2019 at 06:58 PM.
    Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength.
    Eric Hoffer (1902 - 1983)

  6. #5
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    Do you leave crickets in the enclosure? Do you feed supers?

    Crickets are known to nip and 'eat' the lizard if it was not eaten. It is recommended to remove crickets if they are not eaten within 15 min.

    Supers bite. Their bites are annoying but not dangerous. Most lizards know how to eat them without getting bit. For the longest time I fed supers to my beardie, one time a super got ahold of his nostril and won't let go. Did not hurt my lizard but those worms are persistent.

    It could have been a bite from a feeder and now it is infected.

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    Bogertophis (09-30-2019)

  8. #6
    Registered User Jaime_ls3's Avatar
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    Re: Chinese Water Dragon eye disease?

    I feed only small meal worms and small crickets outside of its enclosure. It is small roght now so his diet doesnt have too much variety right now. I tried red wiggles but he didnt like them.

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  9. #7
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    Re: Chinese Water Dragon eye disease?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime_ls3 View Post
    I feed only small meal worms and small crickets outside of its enclosure. It is small roght now so his diet doesnt have too much variety right now. I tried red wiggles but he didnt like them.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    Baby lizards should eat as much as they can in 15 min, at minimum 2 times a day. Variety is important in their diet. Calcium enriched food + good lightning will keep your lizard growing big and strong.

    I use Mulberry Farm for worms: they have many different ones to use including silk worms you can grow on your own (Their adult stock is always sold out), which are one the best nutrition wise. Black soldier fly larvae is small and great in calcium and protein and hornworms hydrates as well as high in calcium (They currently have a buy 2 pods get 1 free pod sale for hornworms. Great deal. You can freeze them/kill them at a size you want because they grow very fast at 80F temp). Roaches are wonderful too but Mulberry does not sell them and depending on your state, certain types are not allowed (ie Dubias are not allowed into FL). Roaches are more expensive, but not as pricey as silks, so it all depends on your budget. Add some small superworms in his diet too. They have less chitin at that size and more meat than mealworms. They are about the same size as mealies.

    All crickets, unless they are pins, should be removed after 15 min. If they have a mouth and nothing to eat, they will nip at your lizard.
    Last edited by Cheesenugget; 10-01-2019 at 08:46 AM.

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  11. #8
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    One more thing, crickets are notorious for being carriers of pinworms. Usually your lizard would be able to fend them off if it is healthy. Just be more cautious, especially water dragons are WC and probably came with its own load of parasites when you first got him. Deworming has its cons for lizards as well: it is not something you should do unless you have to, like clearing up the original load of worms and then try to prevent future parasites by getting your crickets from a reliable source, even though the risk for pinworms will always be there because they eat each other as well as they are dirty little critters. On top of that, they nip at your lizard when they are not being eaten. You can prevent this by removing or place a small dish of veggies for the crickets to eat so it won't go after your lizard.

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    Bogertophis (10-01-2019)

  13. #9
    Registered User Jaime_ls3's Avatar
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    Re: Chinese Water Dragon eye disease?

    Got home from work and Dragon suddenly has both eyes open with no puss or swelling. I get they close one of their eyes to hide from you when they're scared but it has never done it the way I saw it. Still going to get it checked out just in case

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    Bogertophis (10-02-2019)

  15. #10
    Registered User Jaime_ls3's Avatar
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    Re: Chinese Water Dragon eye disease?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cheesenugget View Post
    Baby lizards should eat as much as they can in 15 min, at minimum 2 times a day. Variety is important in their diet. Calcium enriched food + good lightning will keep your lizard growing big and strong.

    I use Mulberry Farm for worms: they have many different ones to use including silk worms you can grow on your own (Their adult stock is always sold out), which are one the best nutrition wise. Black soldier fly larvae is small and great in calcium and protein and hornworms hydrates as well as high in calcium (They currently have a buy 2 pods get 1 free pod sale for hornworms. Great deal. You can freeze them/kill them at a size you want because they grow very fast at 80F temp). Roaches are wonderful too but Mulberry does not sell them and depending on your state, certain types are not allowed (ie Dubias are not allowed into FL). Roaches are more expensive, but not as pricey as silks, so it all depends on your budget. Add some small superworms in his diet too. They have less chitin at that size and more meat than mealworms. They are about the same size as mealies.

    All crickets, unless they are pins, should be removed after 15 min. If they have a mouth and nothing to eat, they will nip at your lizard.
    I think I am going to invest in silk worms next week or so from that website. Probably gonna try the 200 set with chow. I'll feed the small ones to baby Dragon and Riley the Tangerine Leopard Gecko and the big ones to my brothers lazy bearded dragon Harley.

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