Bci ceramic heat emitter

[Lucky01]

I'm about to buy mi first snake, its a 3 yo bci. I have a 4x2x2 wooden enclosure and i was Wondering what wattage shoud i buy the CHE

[richardhind1972]

I use a 150w ceramic in my 4ft vivs as long as it had a decent pulse thermoset attached it will be fine and not overheat your viv, also make sure the probe is placed properly too, I set thermostat to 31'c hot end
This gives me perfect warm end /cool end ratio so my boas can choose which end to thermo regulate them selves
Hope this helps

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[Lucky01]

I use a 150w ceramic in my 4ft vivs as long as it had a decent pulse thermoset attached it will be fine and not overheat your viv, also make sure the probe is placed properly too, I set thermostat to 31'c hot end
This gives me perfect warm end /cool end ratio so my boas can choose which end to thermo regulate them selves
Hope this helps

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I have a normal thermostat not a pulse one, is that okay?

[richardhind1972]

It will still work fine and give you the correct temps , but I personally find a pulse thermostat makes it alot more constant, rather than fluctuating


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[dakski]

I have a normal thermostat not a pulse one, is that okay?

If by normal, you mean on/off, that's okay. I find those work better with heat tape and RHP's, but they are safe to use. I think they may, but don't quote me on it, shorten the life of bulbs and CHE's.

All my tanks have heat tape and RHP's and all of them use on/off thermostats (that are redundant as well). It's what Jeff Ronne uses and sells with his boaphiles. Everyone has their own opinions, but I have no issues with either these, or pulse thermostats. I like the design and redundancy and price of these, but it's a personal preference.

Just be sure to have a good and consistent reading on the temperature probe.

[Lucky01]

It will still work fine and give you the correct temps , but I personally find a pulse thermostat makes it alot more constant, rather than fluctuating


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Another thing, do you thin that i can use a heat mat (with thermostat) to kepp the cool side At 75/80 to give a better thermal gradient?

[dakski]

Another thing, do you thin that i can use a heat mat (with thermostat) to kepp the cool side At 75/80 to give a better thermal gradient?

Yes. I'd keep it 77F+. My cool side heat tape is set to 78F and only comes in the the winter. In the summer, it's usually 78-80F on the cool side in my tanks on their own. However, that's for my 6X2' tanks.

My 4X2's, never really get below 77F on the cool side anyway when the warm side temp is where it should be (86-88F hot spot for a BI and 80-82F ambient). I'd try running just the CHE first, but have the heat mat on thermostat set to say 76F and see if it ever kicks on. If not, you have redundancy and a failsafe, but may not use it much.

[richardhind1972]

I agree with dave you shouldn't need to run both in a 4ft viv, the gradiant should be pretty much spot on, mine are, with a bit of tweeking from the warm side, don't forget a guard on the ceramic


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[Lucky01]

I agree with dave you shouldn't need to run both in a 4ft viv, the gradiant should be pretty much spot on, mine are, with a bit of tweeking from the warm side, don't forget a guard on the ceramic


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Where do you have the CHE,like how far from the side of the viv?
And Another thing bought two hides that are 16.5x10.5x4, are those big enough for my 5 ft 5kg bci or should i go bigger ?

Sorry if my english is not that good but Im italian

[richardhind1972]

I have my ceramic approx 6inch to one side of the viv
Not sure on the hides you may fine but depends whether your new boa can fit thru the opening
Not sure how girthy your boa is

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