First timer in need of advice

[Awesomethepossum]

Not sure if this is the right thread, I apologize if it's not.

Here are some questions that I saw posted, and answered for clarification.

1. How long have you had your ball python?

I brought him home from a reptile expo on 7/7, so this past Sunday, to today.


2. How old (or how big) is your snake?

He was hatched approximately 2 months ago


3. Does it eat on a regular schedule?

For the breeder? Yes. And fed well.


4. How long since its last meal?

The breeder didn't feed him a day or two prior to traveling, to avoid sickness. He told me I could attempt to feed him the following day after bringing him home.


5. What type/size prey is being offered?

The breeder said be initially gave him live prey, but had started the transition to f/d hoppers, with success. He told me that this one wasnt having issues with the transition.


6. How often do you offer food?

I offered him a hopper on 7/9 (Tuesday) at around 7:30pm, as he had settled down into one of his hides the day prior. Will be setting a regular schedule based on his weight and needs.


7. What type and size of enclosure does it live in?

An exo terra, covered in a large towel. Because I had initially planned on getting an older juvenile/adult, his tank is... admittedly larger (36×18×18). It has three hides, one of which can be used for shedding, spread through the temperature gradient in the tank. He was very stressed from the trip home, so I wanted him to be able to get out and away from all the noise. Like I said he carefully explored his tank for a few hours, then snuggled into his warm hide.


8. What are you using as substrate? If it has depth, how deep is it?

Aspen. The depth on the side of the UTH is shallower, approx 1/2 an inch or less directly over it, so he can get more heat, or wiggle a bit and lay directly on the glass. The rest is about an inch, inch and a half in depth.


9. What type of heating do you use?

UTH on one side, with temp controls.


10. Do you use a thermostat to control temperatures?

Yes.


11. What do you use to measure/monitor temperatures?

Temp gun


12. What are the surface and ambient temperatures in the enclosure?

Basking spot is 90-91, ambient is about 83-85


13. What is the average humidity level?

50-60%


14. How many and what type of hides does the snake have?

Three, two small, standard hides on either end of temp gradient, and a third which can also be utilized for shedding purposes. If needed, will ad more.


15. Is water readily available at all times?

He has a medium sized bowl of water with him at all times.


16. Does the snake live alone or does it share the enclosure with anything else?

He lives alone.

17. How often and for how long is the snake typically handled?

Handled him only when moving him into the tank, and at the same time, when making some minor adjustments to layout. Havent handled him since, I planned on waiting until he's completely settled in, and has begun eating regularly. Had given him a gentle touch on Tuesday, which he didnt appreciate much (hissed). Left him be after that.

18. Does the snake have any medical history (old injuries or illnesses)?

No.


19. Do you have any other reptiles? Have you brought in any new reptiles recently?

I have 3 leopard geckos, and a bearded dragon. Have had all four for years. Snake is newest addition, isnt in direct contact with them.


20. Is there anything specific or unique about your situation that we should be aware of?

Dante is a 2 month old male "Pumpkin" pied. He's fairly skittish and fearful, but hasnt shown any aggression. He's a baby, so I imagine/hope that this is typical, and that with gentle, consistent handling, he will calm down...

I realize that the size of his tank is large for his size, but he seems like hes settling (isnt frantically searching for an exit, spends most of his time in his little caves). So if I was advised to move him into, say, a 20 gallon, I'd be nervous about re-stressing him, if hes already making progress. If I add more cover, and foliage, might that be acceptable? Like I said I just got him, but at this point he spends most of his time hiding away, but at night he may climb around on his branches a little, to explore. He's fairly timid right now so I'm trying to avoid interacting with him as much as possible..which is painful for me as I am very excited to start working with him on desensitizing.

Also, while I offered him the hopper and he immediately grabbed it, the rest of his effort was half-hearted (barely any coiling, no realigning for ingestion). He didnt consume the hopper. I warmed it up some more, and again he showed a lot of interest (circling, tongue flicking, etc.), but he lost interest and was getting stressed, so I left it at that. I also gave him a piece of my clothing with my scent on it, because I heard that would help him get used to me?

Should I just wait more time before offering him food, like when he's actively hunting? I just know that he's very young and needs nourishment, but I dont want to stress him out either. He's my first snake, and I'll do what I need to to to make him feel comfortable/happy, I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. I worked with an adult ball python at my last job, but he was so gentle that I could have him with me for hours. He would just fall asleep on my lap. Really hoping I can get to that point with Dante someday.

But really, I'm here ti absorb whatever advice there is to be offered..or any other threads in particular that I missed.

Thank you

[Craiga 01453]

Welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of snake keeping!

It sounds you're very well on track. Based on your answers to the above questions it sounds like you were well prepared. So good job there!!

The only issue I see is that hoppers are too small for your BP. They eat hoppers for their first 3-5 meals out of the egg and quickly move up to small adult mice.
Many times breeders will keep them on hoppers to keep them looking small and cute for sale.

As for when to offer next, wait at least 5 days. Offering too often can further stress the animal. Once the snake is eating feed weekly and you'll be good to go.

Good luck! Keep us posted.
Ask any questions you may have, we're happy to help.

[Awesomethepossum]

So the prey is too small...I was just going by what the breeder said. Wasnt sure for myself, so didnt argue.

So would you say, small rat pups?

[Craiga 01453]

Yeah, breeders will often "maintenance feed". So it's enough to keep the animal eating without it growing too quickly.

This feeding chart should help...

Sent from my 6062W using Tapatalk

[Awesomethepossum]

I'll have to find a new home for all 50 of the hoppers I was told to buy, ha. Oh well! An expo is coming up this weekend, I'll grab some fuzzy rats, and some more foliage.

I guess I just dont know what's typical, in terms of baby-rearing. I really am hoping that he grows out of the skittish fearfulness. As far as I can see, he looks settled. And I'll wait more time before I try to feed him again. I'll have the properly sized food by that point.

And I should wait even longer before handling, like a few consistent feedings, correct?

[bcr229]

I'll have to find a new home for all 50 of the hoppers I was told to buy, ha. Oh well! An expo is coming up this weekend, I'll grab some fuzzy rats, and some more foliage.

You can feed the hoppers for now, it's just your baby will need to eat more often until they are gone. I would try a five day schedule. Also ball pythons can move up through feeder sizes fairly rapidly until they're eating small rats, so I wouldn't get more than five of the next size.

And I should wait even longer before handling, like a few consistent feedings, correct?

Yes I would wait for 3-5 consistent feedings before handling regularly.

[Awesomethepossum]

You can feed the hoppers for now, it's just your baby will need to eat more often until they are gone. I would try a five day schedule. Also ball pythons can move up through feeder sizes fairly rapidly until they're eating small rats, so I wouldn't get more than five of the next size.


Yes I would wait for 3-5 consistent feedings before handling regularly.

I went to check on his water, he quickly peeped his head out to watch me...I wonder if he's hungry

50 is still a lot of hoppers...I'll use what I have until I can get the appropriately sized food (although I found someone willing to take some off my hands). I wasnt sure why he gave up in eating it yesterday, if it was related to size or the fact that it wasnt alive, or..? But of course I'd rather give him the ideal sized prey as soon as I can to allow more opportunities during the week for handling him. Otherwise, just seems more efficient.

I tried to plan ahead, buy in bulk, but..never had a snake before, let alone a baby one. I raised my beardie from a hatchling and I remember how much work went into that. Despite providing her with a variety of veggies, insects, etc. at a young age, 3 years later, she's still the pickiest and most difficult eater I have ever owned..

But you just answered another question I had--I'll buy 5 or so, of a size at a time. And I'll go buy myself another scale, just for him.


Thank you both so much for your help, I really appreciate it!

[Awesomethepossum]

It been a couple of weeks, but I have another question...or two

So I ended up switching him into a 10 gallon. Warm side temp is 89-90, cool side is approximately 82-83. Two hides on both sides. I keep the tank covered on all sides. I spoke with the breeder and he recommended this change.

The reason for this is that Dante hadn't been eating, and I was getting concerned, since he's so young. After I switched to the smaller tank, I waited 24 hours and offered a hopper. He wouldnt take it from the tongs and I actually had to dip the mouse in chicken broth and leave it outside his cool/humid cave. He peeped his head out, gently took the mouse, then pulled it back into the hide he was in to eat it. I've never seen a snake do this before, but he ate.

I havent been interacting with him, other than giving him fresh water or offering food. I leave him alone, and plan on it until he starts eating regularly.

He hasnt passed the hopper yet, but because I was told the hopper is kind of small for him at this point, I offered another just now, in the same way that was successful before. He was interested, poked at the hopper from inside his hide, but kept retracting and hiding each time. Right now I'm leaving the mouse there, to see if he takes it. I'm not sure if it's too soon to be offering or not, but it's been 4 days.

When I talked to the breeder, he told me that he was surprised to hear what's going on with him, as he claims that Dante was one of his more aggressive feeders, and was able to switch him from live to f/t with ease. I did buy fuzzy rats for him, but he showed no interest in them, and that's why I gave him something he was familiar with. As long as hes eating something...When the breeder told me how confidently Dante would eat for him, I was fairly surprised.

My question is whether I'm being premature with my concerns, and that he just needs more time to adjust, or..advice really. It just seems like he never leaves his cool hide, which is a little bigger than the warm hide and has moss in it to retain humidity. But I do mist in there every other day or so..but maybe that isnt enough? I just want him to eat, but he acts so timid when I offer him food.

[Moose84]

I noticed a few things...

1.) The animal was used to eating live prey... I understand that the breeder said he had moved him over but that could have been as little as one meal..

2.) He was with a breeder which means he was in a rack.. He was a good eater because he felt secure. You moved him to a massive enclosure and he didn't like that and he let you know that by not eating..

3.) You have changed the enclosure which is great. The 36" is way too big. I would only offer food every 5 days for that age snake. Given that the snake is young and they don't have a lot of reserves my personal opinion is go back to live which is what he was used to. However it does sound like he took a F/T dipped in the broth.. If he refused this meal and refuses the next one, live prey would be going in... Have to get the snake eating..

Did you get a weight on the snake when you first bought him and what is his weight now?

This came up in a thread yesterday as well and it's almost always a husbandry issue that messes with feedings in this age of snake.. They are veracious eaters at this age when the conditions are right.

You have to understand you changed his entire environment from what he was used to and not eating is the first sign of that.. You have to think about what is best for the snake... If F/T isn't working and he is refusing meals then you will have to make changes..

[Awesomethepossum]

I noticed a few things...

1.) The animal was used to eating live prey... I understand that the breeder said he had moved him over but that could have been as little as one meal..

2.) He was with a breeder which means he was in a rack.. He was a good eater because he felt secure. You moved him to a massive enclosure and he didn't like that and he let you know that by not eating..

3.) You have changed the enclosure which is great. The 36" is way too big. I would only offer food every 5 days for that age snake. Given that the snake is young and they don't have a lot of reserves my personal opinion is go back to live which is what he was used to. However it does sound like he took a F/T dipped in the broth.. If he refused this meal and refuses the next one, live prey would be going in... Have to get the snake eating..

Did you get a weight on the snake when you first bought him and what is his weight now?

This came up in a thread yesterday as well and it's almost always a husbandry issue that messes with feedings in this age of snake.. They are veracious eaters at this age when the conditions are right.

You have to understand you changed his entire environment from what he was used to and not eating is the first sign of that.. You have to think about what is best for the snake... If F/T isn't working and he is refusing meals then you will have to make changes..

Like I said, whatever changes need to be made, modifications, advice...I'll do it. No hesitation. I got him on the 7th, and while the breeder said he should be eating every 5 days, it's been 3 weeks with one f/t eaten. It was a rocky start, but I dont know what's typical of new pet juvenile. My experience is with adult ball pythons. I get anxious only because it's my first snake, and I know how important it is right now for him to de-stress and eat. He did say he was eating f/t reliably, but who knows.

He went in the bigger tank initially, only because I thought the expo would have larger snakes..but almost all the snakes they had were hatchling juveniles. I had set it up prior to bringing him home. Switched to a 10 as soon as I realized progress wasn't being made.

I didn't ask the breeder on his weight when I got him, but I plan on getting his current weight today. Whatever gets him eating confidently.

Update: I just weighed him. He's a little over 136 grams.