» Site Navigation
0 members and 2,327 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 6,337, 01-24-2020 at 04:30 AM.
» Today's Birthdays
» Stats
Members: 75,079
Threads: 248,524
Posts: 2,568,620
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
|
-
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Coconut husk is better than cypress imo. It’s softer and can’t result in splinters. Ball pythons don’t need extremely high humidity although 30% is really low. I’d check your humidity gage as almost all homes/apartments are going to be over 30%.... Sounds like he ate quickly at first because he was stressed and the strike was defensive in nature. I’d let him completely settle in before feeding. Also, if you have a “reptile room” a humidifier might be worth the $30 investment. Even if he’s in your living room or bedroom higher humidity is better for us as well. I get nosebleeds if the humidity in my place gets too low Humid hides are another great option as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
BPnet Veteran
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Originally Posted by Craiga 01453
I've been using glass for almost 20 years with success. There are plenty of tricks to boost humidity. Some have already been mentioned, but I'll echo them based on my experience.
Adding Coco coir substrate will go a long way. I use a blend of Eco Earth and Reptibark. It holds humidity well, spot cleans easily and looks naturalistic.
You've got plenty of room for a second water bowl too. Adding a second water bowl will definitely boost your humidity.
Lastly, I wrap my glass enclosures in 1/2" foam board insulation. I cover the top, back and sides. This helps immensely with heat and humidity control. It reduces air flow while still allowing plenty of oxygen to get in. It also holds heat in. This allows the heating equipment to run more efficiently. Less artificial heat = less evaporation = better humidity.
This also helps to lower my electric bill since equipment is functioning more efficiently.
I went with 3/4 in. which they sell at Home Depot, bundled up in plastic and it's pretty inexpensive. The depth was perfect, just had to cut the lengths on some pieces for my 40 gal. I also put it underneath since I don't use a uth. (My hides which are black plastic serve as uth's it seems. Gosh they get warm,very warm. I have to keep an eye on them with my temp gun. And set my thermostat's with them in mind as well as the ambient.)
I love the Styrofoam . Agree with all you just said about the heat, electric use and humidity. The pieces I put on top I wrapped up with saran wrap. Wrapped tightly around and taped. I put 3350 silver 3M tape on the edges which touches the heat light domes to keep the saran wrap safer from the heat of the domes ( they don't get hot enough to melt but I figure better safe than sorry.)
When i first cut the pieces I had also used the 3M tape to go around the sides of the Styrofoam. To keep pieces of Styrofoam from getting everywhere and then I used the tape to hold the styrofoam in place against the glass. (But there might be a better tape to use out there. I have to keep pushing the tape down to stick to the Styrofoam pieces.) But it does stick to the edges of the Styrofoam great for some reason.
Last edited by ballpythonsrock2; 05-21-2019 at 10:42 AM.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to ballpythonsrock2 For This Useful Post:
Craiga 01453 (05-21-2019)
-
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Originally Posted by ballpythonsrock2
I went with 3/4 in. which they sell at Home Depot, bundled up in plastic and it's pretty inexpensive. The depth was perfect, just had to cut the lengths on some pieces for my 40 gal. I also put it underneath since I don't use a uth. (My hides which are black plastic serve as uth's it seems. Gosh they get warm,very warm. I have to keep an eye on them with my temp gun. And set my thermostat's with them in mind as well as the ambient.)
I love the Styrofoam . Agree with all you just said about the heat, electric use and humidity. The pieces I put on top I wrapped up with saran wrap. Wrapped tightly around and taped. I put 3350 silver 3M tape on the edges which touches the heat light domes to keep the saran wrap safer from the heat of the domes ( they don't get hot enough to melt but I figure better safe than sorry.)
When i first cut the pieces I had also used the 3M tape to go around the sides of the Styrofoam. To keep pieces of Styrofoam from getting everywhere and then I used the tape to hold the styrofoam in place against the glass. (But there might be a better tape to use out there. I have to keep pushing the tape down to stick to the Styrofoam pieces.) But it does stick to the edges of the Styrofoam great for some reason.
Sounds great!!!
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Craiga 01453 For This Useful Post:
-
Registered User
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Thanks for all the help! I have got a new probe for my hydrometer and even tho it wasn't ideal it was actually at 50%! And with his new humidity hide and added water I'm hoping it will get to where it needs to be. If I need to I will insulate
I do have one last question tho, he still hasn't pooped?
I have found multiple little urate clumps while I spot clean and refill water but no poop and no actual pee the way he did the day I got him. Any ideas why or is it just bc his humidity wasn't ideal?
He's eating small f/t rats every other week. Should I up to medium? (He's 3 ft, 10 years old, don't know his weight)
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
-
-
BPnet Veteran
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Originally Posted by honey.bee.
Thanks for all the help! I have got a new probe for my hydrometer and even tho it wasn't ideal it was actually at 50%! And with his new humidity hide and added water I'm hoping it will get to where it needs to be. If I need to I will insulate
I do have one last question tho, he still hasn't pooped?
I have found multiple little urate clumps while I spot clean and refill water but no poop and no actual pee the way he did the day I got him. Any ideas why or is it just bc his humidity wasn't ideal?
He's eating small f/t rats every other week. Should I up to medium? (He's 3 ft, 10 years old, don't know his weight)
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
No, no need to go past smalls (50-89 gram) rats for a male.
-
-
Registered User
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Originally Posted by ballpythonsrock2
No, no need to go past smalls (50-89 gram) rats for a male.
I ended up weighing him and he's a big boy at around 1000 grams. However not sure the exact weight bc he's wasn't cooperating too much.
If he's not pooping does that mean he's using 100% of what he's eating, and is that good??
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
-
-
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Originally Posted by honey.bee.
I ended up weighing him and he's a big boy at around 1000 grams. However not sure the exact weight bc he's wasn't cooperating too much.
If he's not pooping does that mean he's using 100% of what he's eating, and is that good??
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
I've got a 1400g and a 1000g male and both eat approx 60g rats every 2 weeks and they're just fine on that size.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
-
The Following User Says Thank You to pretends2bnormal For This Useful Post:
-
Re: Humidity and Feeding help
Originally Posted by honey.bee.
I ended up weighing him and he's a big boy at around 1000 grams. However not sure the exact weight bc he's wasn't cooperating too much.
If he's not pooping does that mean he's using 100% of what he's eating, and is that good??
Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
You can feed him larger (nothing with more girth than the snake) and feed him less frequently. Either method works and there’s no “right” way. Pick whatever works best for you and your animal
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
The Following User Says Thank You to MarkL1561 For This Useful Post:
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|