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Looking at Bloods....
Share your experience. I hear they can be a little more difficult to get to not be defensive but if you can get them to calm down, make good pets. Tell me your experience.
https://www.morphmarket.com/us/c/rep...pythons/147603
https://www.morphmarket.com/us/c/rep...pythons/200276
Above are 2 that are up for consideration.
Is there a difference in male and female attitude?
Possible care issues?
Please share everything.
Thanks.
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They are two very nice looking girls. But unfortunately the more expensive one is a little to die for. If I was in the market, that’s one gorgeous girl. Best of luck either way. Definitely more pics if you pull the trigger.
1.0 Black Pastel Pinstripe
1.0 Reduced Pattern Clown
1.0 Low White Pied
1.0 Hypo Super Enchi
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Originally Posted by Sonny1318
They are two very nice looking girls. But unfortunately the more expensive one is a little to die for. If I was in the market, that’s one gorgeous girl.
Yeah, I second that, but I'm a total sucker for yellow and black patterns.
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Re: Looking at Bloods....
Honestly, go for the best breeder you can, and ask for the calmest individual of the morph/species you're interested in. I got my boy at VPI and did that, and from day 1 as a 175g sausage he has yet to strike except at food.
I wanted a boy (typically a bit smaller as an adult) and a blood, and asked for that, so I got this super calm and very pretty ivory male.
*tapatalk always rotates my pictures....*
VPI was great to work with.
As for other things... start small with tubs for juices, these guys are shyer than ball pythons and appreciate security, at least for a start and slowly work toward a bigger enclosure. Breeders keep them in small tubs & I've been told that they adjust slower than most, so it could take longer to get them reliably eating if you jump to a bigger cage immediately. (Something to be aware of if you don't want to do the juvie tub)
And for juvies, especially in smaller tubs without a large space to get away from a hot spot, just give them ambient targeting 82, and try to keep within 80-84 for most of it, low temp of 78 at night. Adults/big enclosures can have hot spots 86-88, but if there is not a dry and a wet space that is around 82 for them to fully fit into, I'd skip the hot spot. Most blood breeders use pure ambient.
Generally, really pissy bloods are too hot, too humid, or both. You want around 60% humidity and not to have wet substrate. From VPI, (at least their animals) bitey babies are largely the result of too much heat or giving a hot spot, so they recommended to me to be sure to avoid that.
No clue about personality differences male vs female. Most of what I've seen is anecdotal and is just individual driven. Supposedly males are more unpredictable, but I've heard that about various species and never really seen much that is definitive proof.
Also, most important pro tip.. make sure to only fill a water bowl so that when the snake sits in it, it will not overflow. I messed that up early on... and he soaked his tub. Oops.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Last edited by pretends2bnormal; 05-09-2019 at 09:49 AM.
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Bloods are great! Definitely one of my favorites to keep. I had only two individuals over the years (out of about 7 total) that were cranky...the rest were all super mellow. I threw one of my old t shirts in with the first one and she ended up being puppy dog tame. The second one I purchased as a large adult male and you could do whatever you wanted with him for about 10 min and then you were done. He was very vocal and would twitch his tail, so he always gave me fair warning and I never got tagged. I always kept my babies in small tubs (like a ball) to feel secure and I didnt worry about a hot spot, just the ambient temps.
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Re: Looking at Bloods....
Originally Posted by kristan
Bloods are great! Definitely one of my favorites to keep. I had only two individuals over the years (out of about 7 total) that were cranky...the rest were all super mellow. I threw one of my old t shirts in with the first one and she ended up being puppy dog tame. The second one I purchased as a large adult male and you could do whatever you wanted with him for about 10 min and then you were done. He was very vocal and would twitch his tail, so he always gave me fair warning and I never got tagged. I always kept my babies in small tubs (like a ball) to feel secure and I didnt worry about a hot spot, just the ambient temps.
Thank you for responding. Would you recommend looking at adults vs hatchlings?
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Re: Looking at Bloods....
So.. I've only had my Blood for 2 months so far, and I have to say that I abslutely love him. Given he is a PITA to feed. But overall I love him. The colors are exceptional with this breed, and even thought my male is not even close to getting his adult colors, it is still pretty. My expeience is as follows. at first I had a normal phase female. this female was definitely on the nippy size, and was quite a showboater when you would try to pick her up. I got bit by her once. Then I went to the pat store to get her sexed, and I fell in love with the T- Albino I now have. At that time I traded my female + a couple buchs and got this male. This male is exceptionally well behaved, but he has issues with feeding. If I handle him within 48 hours of feeding I found that most of the time he doesn't take the food. So now I that I figured that out, I am starting to handle him a bit different.
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Re: Looking at Bloods....
Originally Posted by sur3fir3
So.. I've only had my Blood for 2 months so far, and I have to say that I abslutely love him. Given he is a PITA to feed. But overall I love him. The colors are exceptional with this breed, and even thought my male is not even close to getting his adult colors, it is still pretty. My expeience is as follows. at first I had a normal phase female. this female was definitely on the nippy size, and was quite a showboater when you would try to pick her up. I got bit by her once. Then I went to the pat store to get her sexed, and I fell in love with the T- Albino I now have. At that time I traded my female + a couple buchs and got this male. This male is exceptionally well behaved, but he has issues with feeding. If I handle him within 48 hours of feeding I found that most of the time he doesn't take the food. So now I that I figured that out, I am starting to handle him a bit different.
Thanks for sharing. I fallowed your thread and did not have proper experience to advise to I simply listened to you and the advice that was given to you.
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