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  1. #1
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    Feeding question

    I adopted a juvenile ball python from Petsmart last week, and I'm a bit worried about his feeding. When I got him they explained that they haven't fed him since they got him, two weeks ago from today, and that they were planning on feeding him soon.

    I wanted to give him time to settle into his new home before I tried to feed him. Today I offered him a thawed frozen mouse, but he refused. Desperate, I tried again tonight, hoping that because he's nocturnal he'd be more alert. But to no avail.

    I looked a little closer and realized he's in the early stages of shedding. This wouldn't worry me if I didn't know he hasn't eaten for the past three weeks, and I can tell he's becoming a bit malnourished. His spine is a bit more prominent than id like it to be.

    I was really hoping I could get him to eat before shedding, because I don't want him to starve for another two weeks.
    I guess the main thing I want to ask is, do you think he'll be okay not eating for around 5 weeks?

    Thank you in advance, I'm eager to hear any advice you have.

  2. #2
    BPnet Lifer dakski's Avatar
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    Re: Feeding question

    Quote Originally Posted by Akorn View Post
    I adopted a juvenile ball python from Petsmart last week, and I'm a bit worried about his feeding. When I got him they explained that they haven't fed him since they got him, two weeks ago from today, and that they were planning on feeding him soon.

    I wanted to give him time to settle into his new home before I tried to feed him. Today I offered him a thawed frozen mouse, but he refused. Desperate, I tried again tonight, hoping that because he's nocturnal he'd be more alert. But to no avail.

    I looked a little closer and realized he's in the early stages of shedding. This wouldn't worry me if I didn't know he hasn't eaten for the past three weeks, and I can tell he's becoming a bit malnourished. His spine is a bit more prominent than id like it to be.

    I was really hoping I could get him to eat before shedding, because I don't want him to starve for another two weeks.
    I guess the main thing I want to ask is, do you think he'll be okay not eating for around 5 weeks?

    Thank you in advance, I'm eager to hear any advice you have.
    A few things.

    1. I would want him to eat as well. However, do not force the issue. Over-offering (more than 1X every 5-7 days for a juvenile) can put them off feed instead of entice them.

    2. Leave him alone and let him shed. Then offer again.

    3. Do you know what he was eating before petsmart? F/T, live, size, mouse or rat? Be consistent. Do you know his weight? What size food are you offering?

    Use the chart below to determine feeding size.


    4. Feed at night. Feed on tongs and try gently move it the prey to illicit a strike.

    5. What are your temps and humidity? What is the cage like - size, hides, etc. All this is very important. It should be dialed in well for him to eat.

    6. How are you offering? See below for a step by step guide of feeding F/T.

    This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

    Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


    STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

    1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

    2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

    3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-. Less if smaller prey and longer if bigger prey (however longer does not hurt smaller prey).

    4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

    5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey - Large rats, for example).

    6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

    7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

    8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

    9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

    10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

    11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

    12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

    13. Open tank and offer ASAP on tongs. Wiggle gently to make it appear alive.

  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran MarkL1561's Avatar
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    Re: Feeding question

    You can use ziplock bags when defrosting to keep it dry. I get as much air out as I can and place it in a bowl with hot water. You can use a cup to weigh it down. Super simple but effective


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Registered User fadingdaylight's Avatar
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    A side note, but one thing I noticed is that if you vacuum seal your rodents, you might want to remove them from the vacuum pack and put them into a ziploc before thawing. I tried to thaw one in the vacuum pack the other night and it caused an eye to rupture or something, there was some bleeding, and the snake caught the scent and refused that mouse, as it was clearly dead. I ended up having to thaw another one and offer it to get a strike.
    - Jason


    "Why should I fear what others fear? How ridiculous!" - Lao Tzu

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  6. #5
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    The animal did not eat in their care for several reasons

    1# Their policy is to feed F/T and most animals they will receive feed live, you have to feed live and than switch in order for an animal to switch successfully this is what you have to do with an animal that is acclimating to a new environment.

    2# Their husbandry is less than optimum and security is lacking therefore the animal is often unwilling to eat.

    Here is where you start because a young animal that is not eating need to be getting back on track ASAP

    https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...=1#post2448857
    Deborah Stewart


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