Heating a large tank

[Alex Lehner]

Alright, so I need some suggestions on heating. I have a new setup for my BP, it is a 36x36x18 exoterra that was available to me for too cheap for me to turn down. I know it's a bit on the large side, but I have it filled with lots of hides and plants and branches, and my BP is in it, took his first meal with it a few days ago without any problems, without skipping a meal. As soon as the lights go out, he is out climbing and exploring the tank, so it seems to suit him.

Anyways, my problem comes in with heating. I have a che bulb on top of the screen lid. His main hides he hides in during the day are on the very bottom of the tank, and in order to get the heat down there to an appropriate level, the heat up near the top of the tank are pretty hot. Like I said, he goes up there at night and the heat doesnt bother him, but I worry about it for too reasons: 1. Potentially being too hot there for him despite his willingness to hang out up there, and 2. This hot spot creates a huge area too hot to grow plants without scalding the leaves. The second thing isnt too big of a problem, other than me wanting it to be visually appealing and providing more cover for him.

Temps on the bottom of the tank are high 70s, with a uth on the side next to his hot hide to heat it up to 85. Temps up top range from 80s up to 90s, and right under the heat bulb is about 100 (which I know is too hot).

So, any suggestions on how to get more of an even heat? Someone suggested adding a small fan in there to blow more of the heat around while cooking off the top. I could use a smaller che to reduce the heat temps up top, but then it would be too cold on the bottom. Humidity is not a problem, as I have two small nano tanks in the front corners of the tanks, and hydroballs with cocohusk for the bedding material. Any suggestions would be welcome!

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[MR Snakes]

Cool tank but where is the BP?

[dadofsix]

How old is your snake? Or more accurately, how large is your snake?

As you may have surmised, if there areas in the enclosure that get hot enough to scald leaves, and your snake can reach it, that is NOT a good situation. Have you considered adding another UTH somewhere near the cool side? If they are both on thermostats (and should be), you will have much more control of the temperatures at ground level where it really counts. Then you can try using several smaller wattage CHEs to address the ambient heat instead of using just one larger CHE. These can also be put on devices such as sliding dimmers (they have a number of other names) to control their output into the tank.

However, I will defer to the many people here who are much more experienced and who can offer their own suggestions. A lot of these folks have years of experience with their snakes.

A question, how are you keeping the humidity up in the enclosure?

In any event, best of luck and welcome to this forum.

<><Peace

[SquirmyPug]

The problem is that you have a tall tank, is there any way you could put the CHE inside the cage and have it lower so that it heats down near the substrate?

You would need a screen cage around the CHE and have something over it to keep the snake from getting burned. Either insulate the top so the snake can climb on top of the CHE cage or have something that keeps the snake off of it completely. I have an idea that would probably work to get the CHE cage lower but it would be a little work.

[Craiga 01453]

Although that tank looks beautiful, that height is going to make things pretty difficult for you.

I would have worked out the kinks BEFORE moving the snake.

You may end up wishing you went a different route. Just because it's a good deal, doesn't mean it's a good enclosure for all species. BPs being extremely terrestrial, that top 24 inches are basically a waste.

I've been using glass for years, and it's 1000% doable, but with the right equipment. I just don't see that enclosure being a good home for a BP.

I haven't used them yet (I'm in the process of upgrading enclosures) but a RHP (Radiant Heat Panel) might be your only option. I'd look into that and see if that might work. Or sell that enclosure and buy a new one.

[Bogertophis]

That's a lovely (irresistible) tank, but not well-suited for a terrestrial snake like your BP. Too bad the 18" isn't the height. As it is, it's a nice tank for an
arboreal species or a rat snake, but I just don't think it works well for a BP, no matter what you do. I'd be concerned about the excessive overhead heat
from the CHE too, & while you might add another UTH, you still need a cool area for the snake to thermoregulate. Even if you put another heat source
in the middle (surrounded by a 'cage'), it could get too hot for the snake to touch.

[Alex Lehner]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I will definitely look into radiant heat panels and see what I can find. I like the idea of using multiple smaller che bulbs instead of one large one. I keep the humidity up by watering the and misting the plants, and the hydroballs in the bottom hold in a ton of water and are great for humidity. I definitely should have gotten this set up before moving him in, don't know why i didn't think to do that. He is about 2 1/2 feet long.

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[CALM Pythons]

Well here is my 2 cents... it looks like the tank is 36L x 18D x 36H? First take down those high branches ... i have climbing rods but not high enough for the snake to fall and hurt themselves.. falling from 30” is to much for a Ball Python, both of my Balls Climb and the species are NOT experts and mine have been practicing for years...nothing like Arboreal snakes.
As far as the tank and Heating.. what I would do is get a large UTH so it covers about 1/2 the enclosure floor. Set the TStat to get a floor temp of 90. (Glass temp not substrate). Then I would use the CHE for ambient over the cool side hide. With the CHE that high up you wont need a Tstat on it. But you need one for the UTH to get your hot spot dialed in. This will allow the snake to get his basking for food digestion without climbing and also stop any chances of burns from getting to close. The decor is pretty, but lower those branches so he can only get 1/2 way up the tank hight.


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[postminpat]

It looks like you're using a UV bulb on the right side. Could be wrong but those are unnecessary. Ambient light from daytime through windows is fine. If you insist on using a CHE i'd suggest getting the proper housing for it. That dome is prone to overheating. CHE's come recommended with wire domes. Otherwise switch to two infrared heat emitters on both sides, with an ink bird thermostat (they're cheap, 40 bucks on amazon and work great) and set the thermostat to regulate the ambient temp at about 78-79 degrees. You can run both heat domes on one thermostat. I notice you have a lot of branches high up, get rid of those. BP's don't really need to climb, and they are susceptible for breaking bones from a fall that high due to them being fragile. Also tall is alright, would make it harder for them to escape, the closer they get to the top the more strength they have to break free. For more even heat with that tall of an enclosure i'd try combining both IHE and UTH with some insulated heat tape around the sides of the enclosure, About a foot up from the bottom, and on the outside. While keeping that room at around 70-71 degrees F The heat beam from the top shouldn't be a problem unless you give the snake access to right under it. IHE bulbs come with a chart to measure the temp of the heat beam from top to bottom. That's my suggestion anyways.

[MarkL1561]

Use a high watt bulb but make sure to arrange the cage so the snake can’t get burned. Also an uth will help, especially at night. As long as your house stays in the 70’s at night you don’t need to worry. BPs are pretty easy and you’re likely overthinking this a bit. You’re enclosure looks nice just make sure to set it up so the snake can’t get injured. They aren’t super great climbers so I’d keep the branches lower (to prevent falls and burns) and put a spot lamp on the warm side. Also if you don’t have a temp gun I’d pick one up.


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