my new lovely freind keeps missing the mice

[motorcyclecowboy]

i mean it seems hse hits it but she dont grab it ..it is so fast it is hard for me to see.. do you think she will eats soon? i love her so much im so worried new pets always scare me to they eat

[DandD]

i mean it seems hse hits it but she dont grab it ..it is so fast it is hard for me to see.. do you think she will eats soon? i love her so much im so worried new pets always scare me to they eat

Get a blow dryer and warm it up right before you feed. Sounds like she can’t get a good grasp on where it is because it might be to cold.

[motorcyclecowboy]

awesume ty for the input

[Dylan_]

i mean it seems hse hits it but she dont grab it ..it is so fast it is hard for me to see.. do you think she will eats soon? i love her so much im so worried new pets always scare me to they eat

Live or frozen thawed only reason i ask is if it is live dont leave it unattended with the snake it can cause serious damage or kill your snake

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[Lord Sorril]

i mean it seems hse hits it but she dont grab it ..it is so fast it is hard for me to see.. do you think she will eats soon? i love her so much im so worried new pets always scare me to they eat

Those are defensive bites, not offensive attacks.

[Bogertophis]

Those are defensive bites, not offensive attacks.

Agree with ^ ^ ^ and to elaborate on that, snakes may do this for several possible reasons:

Live prey: they may have been used to eating only dead prey, & are afraid of the live prey. Or, it's a different kind (rat/vs. mouse) or too big. You WANT them eating
only dead prey (either frozen/thawed-& warmed!, or fresh pre-killed) for their safety.

Going into a shed cycle: snakes know (can feel it) before we can see the signs, & if offered food at that time, many will refuse. Take their word for it & wait
a few days...you'll likely see their eyes cloud up.

Stress: new pets should be allowed to settle in, preferably for a couple weeks before ANY handling. Handling a snake can interfere with their hunting/eating instincts.
It's best not to handle a new snake until it has fed 2 or preferably 3 times (at normal intervals) before you do any handling of them at all. While many people fail to do
this & some "get away with it", others have nothing but trouble trying to get their poor fearful snake to eat, & if they don't eat, eventually they don't live. So eating, &
NOT handling (NOT "taming") is Job #1, for best results. They are living creatures, not a toy...put their needs first.

Poor offering techniques: BPs are ambush hunters, meaning they prefer to sit & wait until prey happens to go past them, & they usually prefer to eat at night or evening.
Best time to offer is when they are in their hide, just peeking out, in the evening hours. Even then, too much motion or too little motion (from already-dead prey) can
still scare them off: using feeding tongs, a slight wiggle of the prey is best, & do NOT approach the snake with it. Rats never run up to a snake in the real world & offer to
be dinner! That sort of boldness will scare many snakes (like BPs) into not eating. Make the dead rodent appear to cluelessly pass by where the snake is waiting.
Pre-killed rodents must also have some life-like warmth to them for most BPs, since they use their heat-sensing pits to tell what's edible. A brief blast of a blow-dryer to
the already thawed rodent right before offering is often what's needed for them to strike & eat.

Don't offer too often: if your snake refuses to eat, wait a week & offer at the right time (not when the snake is cruising the cage either), right temperature (etc) & only if the snake isn't currently in shed.

Be patient & try to see it from your snake's point of view...