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  1. #21
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: Backstory and Breeding Progress/Questions

    You ask excellent questions based on the research you have done.


    Quote Originally Posted by Weremey59 View Post
    1) How often do BP's lock/breed and a clutch not be yielded? I ask this as in the female doesnt lay any eggs what so ever. I'm not talking about slugs. If they do or dont why?

    2) This is a tough one as this is very local. Everywhere I look says to find someone to show you or assist you in sexing snakes. Whether that's probing or popping the younglings. Where the crap do I find someone in Calgary to help with something like that? Its asking alot and even when I go to reptile expos, how do you even ask that. Not to mention although the snake community is very nice, it would still be a complete stranger in my house. Is there someplace I can take them?

    3) Incubators, I've seen everything under the sun used as an incubator but what would you suggest? Here are the three options I currently have. I have an old fridge that I could easily turn into one but the thing is quite large. I could build my own insulated unit to whatever dimensions I wanted, it would be quite tank like Haha. Lastly I could go the cooler route that only fits 2-3 clutches. Should I go big or go home? Should I start small and work my way up?

    4) a) Incubation tubs. I have seen alot of different substrate or lack there of used to keep the humidity up in the incubation tubs. The option I am leaning towards is the eggs crate suspended in water route. Meaning not using any substrate matter, just water and an egg crate/rack to suspend the eggs above the water. A breeder Ive talked to here does this and has alot of positive things to say about it. Vermiculite has alot of conflicting opinions interms of too high or too low of humidity. Some love it, some thing its a pain. What do you do think/suggest?

    b) Incubation temperatures need to be between 88-90 INSIDE or OUTSIDE the incubation tub? How do you measure that? Obviously the incubator would be thermostatically controlled with my Herbstat 4 but my concern is inside the tub. My thought was to squeeze a thermometer probe wire between the lid and the container of the incubation tub and run a thermometer probe inside to monitor it. Thoughts?

    c) How do you measure humidity inside the incubation tub?

    5) Do you change the incubation tub sizes to whatever fits the clutch or do you always use 7qt tubs and just separate the eggs from one another so they all fit? Is there such a thing as to big of a tub?

    6) I forgot this one and meant to put it at the beginning, sorry Haha. As I stated above I bred Allan×Misty and Poe xEdgar however I had to removed Allan from breeding for some time and substituted him for Poe. If both males successfully locked to the same female, is there a chance of have a clutch with both males gene's being present in the clutches? (Eg, Misty's clutch could be champ, pin, pastel, mystic, Mojave het Albino?) I hope that made sense.

    I know that was alot but thank you in advance for any information you guys have. I plan on using this page to keep anyone who is interested informed on how things are moving along and field anymore questions I may have/can't find on the internet. Please comment if you see something I am doing wrong in regards to anything stated above, I am completly open to anyone's opinion.

    Thanks again,

    Grant
    1) as previously answered they have full control of this - but your observation of weather influence is absolutely correct. Low pressure fronts have a huge effect on breeding behaviour. But some pairings just don't work - if she doesn't like a particular male that's the time to consider alternates.

    2)Some people may feel more comfortable showing you HOW to sex on their own snakes. And most breeders ( assuming they have time etc ) will be willing to show you. If theycan't be understanding and if they won't try not to take it personally.

    3) I always used the fish tank heater in a third full aquarium in the past. Learn the correct ratio of water to vermiculite ( or perlite ) and then just keep a spray water bottle in the incubator so you can adjust it if you need to without a massive thermal shock.

    4) The problem I have with water only is simply it sloshes when you move tubs. Vermiculite should clump when squeezed but crumble if prodded. you can always add a layer of light grating on top to keep the eggs from coming into contact with it.

    b. 90 inside. adjust the fish tank heater to do this - incubators should always be run for a few weeks before you think eggs are due so you can dial this in.

    c) just mix it right then use the look of the eggs themselves to see if adjustments are needed - the airflow between the tubs and the incubator main body can seriously affect this so keep an eye out.

    5) I tend to separate if I find the clutch early enough. If not don't risk ripping an egg just for placement.

    6) Split parentage or dual sired clutches are possible for all eggs in the clutch. You can drive yourself nuts with probability mathmatics but the snakes never studied it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Weremey59 View Post
    Another random question. My sister in law is going for her vet tech currently but her final goal is to be a veterinarian one day. She came back from a week long seminar in which she spent time working with alot of exotic animals. Of course she had a whole bunch of "advice" on keeping, raising and breeding snakes. I take it all with a grain of salt. Apparently tubs and racks are not the proper way to house snakes........ we got into the conversation about UVB light and she is in the corner of all reptiles REQUIRE UVB light to help with there vitiman D and bone development. (I'll say now I've read everything on this site and have even found a study suggesting otherwise)

    Here is my question, when babies are in the eggs developing and growing to hatch, would UVB light in the incubator reduce the chances of kink or other bone related disorders?
    BP's don't need uvb - and the eggs rely on the mothers vitamin levels so feeind her good whole prey is all you can do. UVB in the incubator can add nothing I think.
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

  2. #22
    Registered User Weremey59's Avatar
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    So I saw this tonight. They are kinda hard and there is about 4 of them. Would this be just follicles? She has had 3 confirmed locks. Her tail is from her needing to poop



  3. #23
    Registered User Weremey59's Avatar
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    So I had something interesting happen tonight. Allan was in shed so I decided to wait until he was finished before I introduced her to Edgar. Well about 30 seconds into being in her bin they were fighting HARD. No one was injured (I always stick around for 5 mins to make sure things like this doesn't happen). Is this a good sign she is finished with the males? When do you know they aren't interested in the males anymore, events like this? She doesn't show any signs of eggs/follicles and has had successful locks with this male over the last three months. It has been a while since she had eaten and I have been witnessing her wrapping her water dish.

    Random question, I am currently using paper towels as my substrate. Would you suggest changing the females substrate to something they can stack and move around into a nest?

    As a side note, it is not the female pictured above. Any advice on that one would be appreciated as well.

    Thank,

    Grant

  4. #24
    Registered User Weremey59's Avatar
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    Anyone?

  5. #25
    Registered User Weremey59's Avatar
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    Well the incubators made and has been holding steady around 87-89 degrees for three days now. I'm so excited now for EEEGGGGGGS. I decided to go the perlite route. I rinsed it all to get the dust out, now I'm just waiting for it to dry. With the method I used do I add any water to the perlite or is the humidity in the incubator sufficient?

    Thanks

    Grant

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