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Re: Feeding lump
Originally Posted by DCash
And to answer your question no it is not normal snakes need heat to digest. When they don’t have the proper heat and humidity it can take almost double the time for them to digest what should take a day or two. You quoted care sheets that you obviously didn’t read. Your right! rainbow boas do require a little less heat but the answers we gave you where a lot closer and probably a lot healthier then what you are at now. What we quoted you is for more of a general boa setup. But once again. A lot closer to the real numbers then what you are actually keeping the boa at. Why ask a question if you don’t like the answer. We all are just giving you information from OUR experience.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Direpython For This Useful Post:
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Re: Feeding lump
Care is a bit different and more sensitive for neonates. Adults are fine with 70% humidity, but neonates are better with 95-100+%. I think adults do better with higher than 70%, that is more of a minimum.
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Re: Feeding lump
Thank you, I appreciate the input. I will raise the hot spot to 84-85. I’ve just read a lot and lower temps seem to be better for rainbows. The original temps and humidity you recommended me seemed off. Thanks though!
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60% humidity would be way too low for a BRB. most resources I've read, and I've read a lot. say 80-90%
Following, cause mine has a lump too...or a thickening, but this is a week after feeding. He hasn't been getting much exercise... I assume cause i'm not getting ambient temps up high enough. Today I wrapped insulation around the and and under t.. still thermostat reading that it's in heating mode...
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Last edited by DCash; 10-29-2018 at 03:59 PM.
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Re: Feeding lump
Originally Posted by DCash
I personally have raised three rainbows, two Brazilian one Columbian. And yes I’m a big fan of letting things drop to the low 70’s. But if you already knew better, then what’s up with confusion about it’s digestion? People are just trying to help and you, and you stated it’s not “digesting properly”. So the first thing most would look at is husbandry. That’s why the answers you received regarding “slow” digestion, were given. We assume your husbandry is probably off, that’s all. And that Reptile magazine was not only awesome, it probably did more for the hobby then most people could ever imagine.
Last edited by Sonny1318; 10-29-2018 at 04:06 PM.
1.0 Black Pastel Pinstripe
1.0 Reduced Pattern Clown
1.0 Low White Pied
1.0 Hypo Super Enchi
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The Following User Says Thank You to Sonny1318 For This Useful Post:
Craiga 01453 (10-29-2018)
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Registered User
Re: Feeding lump
Thank you, I was just wondering if I should be concerned. I haven’t noticed a lump last that long on my other snake and was just hoping it was okay. Wasn’t trying to start any arguments, just wondering if my feed item was too big? Should I try a 4 g fuzzy next feed once the lump is gone? I know with questions like these people always ask about the husbandry so I offered it. I wasn’t looking for advice on the husbandry, just the lump and food size, the breeder who has been breeding them for over 20 years said my husbandry was fine.
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Registered User
Re: Feeding lump
Originally Posted by Damselle
60% humidity would be way too low for a BRB. most resources I've read, and I've read a lot. say 80-90%
Following, cause mine has a lump too...or a thickening, but this is a week after feeding. He hasn't been getting much exercise... I assume cause i'm not getting ambient temps up high enough. Today I wrapped insulation around the and and under t.. still thermostat reading that it's in heating mode...
What are your ambient temps? Mine stays around 74 most the day, lowest is has dropped is to 72 and goes up to 75. Doesn’t drop lower or go higher than that.
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I've raised several BRB litters. Neonates should run mid-70's low temp, mid 80's high temp. Humidity for a neonate is 90% or higher. Make sure the high temp is actually in the mid-80's; many people focus solely on the humidity and as a result of constantly spraying cold water into the baby tubs they don't get warm enough. I run all my babies on damp cypress mulch substrate with back heat so I don't have to constantly spray them; they can burrow and be plenty warm and humid.
Because BRB's run cooler than ball pythons and boa imperators their metabolisms are slower and they take a bit longer to digest a meal. If a feeder leaves a visible lump then don't handle the baby for at least three days. They are also fine eating on a 7-10 day schedule from the get-go, unlike ball pythons which you can feed on a 5-7 day schedule.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to bcr229 For This Useful Post:
Craiga 01453 (10-29-2018),Justin83 (10-29-2018),Sonny1318 (10-29-2018)
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Re: Feeding lump
Originally Posted by bcr229
I've raised several BRB litters. Neonates should run mid-70's low temp, mid 80's high temp. Humidity for a neonate is 90% or higher. Make sure the high temp is actually in the mid-80's; many people focus solely on the humidity and as a result of constantly spraying cold water into the baby tubs they don't get warm enough. I run all my babies on damp cypress mulch substrate with back heat so I don't have to constantly spray them; they can burrow and be plenty warm and humid.
Because BRB's run cooler than ball pythons and boa imperators their metabolisms are slower and they take a bit longer to digest a meal. If a feeder leaves a visible lump then don't handle the baby for at least three days. They are also fine eating on a 7-10 day schedule from the get-go, unlike ball pythons which you can feed on a 5-7 day schedule.
Thank you so much, I feel a bit better now . I was used to my ball python eating, digesting, and then pooping in a span of 4 days! Good to know they digest a bit slower.
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