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Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
Originally Posted by Sparrow77743
T
so is there anything I can do to him?
Let him digest (if he still is?) and fix the temperature issues.
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Registered User
Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
Originally Posted by Sunnieskys
If your heat mat is not regulated you should not use it. It can spike and burn your snake.
Get a a jumpstart on Amazon. And get a ceramic heat emitter so you can keep it on. If you turn off your lamp your temps may vary too much and cause a RI.
Not trying to to sound snotty, however you need to get proper equipment for your animal.
Spend $60 now and save $100's in vet bills. You must have a proper set up. Now I see why she isn't eating. Let's correct this and get your baby back in track.
Let me see if I’m hearing you correctly
Can I use the heat lamp during the day, and at night use the heat pad with the jumpstart?
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Registered User
Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
OR CAN I just use the ceramic bulb and keep it on all day and night. Do I need a jump starter for that?
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Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
Originally Posted by Sparrow77743
Ok.
So during the day, I use the heat lamp, and at night I use the heat pad with the jumpstart?
no you get either a red/blue/black heat lamp or a Ceramic heat emitter CHE ( I prefer a Che) and leave it on to maintain temps all day long. Your jumpstart regulates your UTH which also stays on.
~Sunny~
Booplesnoop Coilsome, Odyn, & Eeden AKA theLittleOne
0:1 Pastel Het Red Day Chocolate
1:0 Normal
0:0:1 Pueblan milk snake
*~* Nothing sticky (tape, stick on gauges, Velcro) goes into your enclosure! Again...NOTHING sticky goes into your enclosure....EVER! *~*
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The Following User Says Thank You to Sunnieskys For This Useful Post:
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Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
Originally Posted by Sparrow77743
OR CAN I just use the ceramic bulb and keep it on all day and night. Do I need a jump starter for that?
You need at least a dimmer for the Che. That way you can adjust the temp to hit 80 and it stays a degree or two difference. Mine only fluctuates a degree in either direction.
~Sunny~
Booplesnoop Coilsome, Odyn, & Eeden AKA theLittleOne
0:1 Pastel Het Red Day Chocolate
1:0 Normal
0:0:1 Pueblan milk snake
*~* Nothing sticky (tape, stick on gauges, Velcro) goes into your enclosure! Again...NOTHING sticky goes into your enclosure....EVER! *~*
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Registered User
Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
OK. Is it’s possible for me to just get a thermostst and regulate it using just the heating pad all day and night? Just have it fluctuate?
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Nope. UTH do not contribute to ambient temps at all. You can cause an RI with that kind of fluctuation. Unless your room ambient stays at 82. It will be way to cold.
~Sunny~
Booplesnoop Coilsome, Odyn, & Eeden AKA theLittleOne
0:1 Pastel Het Red Day Chocolate
1:0 Normal
0:0:1 Pueblan milk snake
*~* Nothing sticky (tape, stick on gauges, Velcro) goes into your enclosure! Again...NOTHING sticky goes into your enclosure....EVER! *~*
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Registered User
If things go on for too long and you become very concerned you can try assist feeding. Basically you hold the snake's head and press the head of the mouse into his mouth until he opens it. Usually he will then rap and eat the mouse. This doesn't force them to eat like force feeding would, so if he really doesn't want to he will spit it out. I have had done this a few times to one baby I had who wouldn't eat for three weeks after I got him. Did this two weeks in a row and after that he started striking and eating on his own.
Just to clarify, this will not remedy the other issues you may have with your husbandry and should NOT replace the other changes suggested by everyone else.
Last edited by HannaKessler; 10-15-2018 at 05:57 PM.
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Registered User
Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
Ok. If I have a 49 gallon tank? What wattage if ceramic bulb should I buy?
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Ok. If I have a 49 gallon tank? What wattage if ceramic bulb should I buy?
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Re: MY ball python won’t eat!
Late here, but here goes.
1. ALL HEATING ELEMENTS MUST BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT! No discussion, not cutting corners, etc. Both UTH and heating lamp need a thermostat. Either one for each, or get a dual thermostat like this one: https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=76
I do use dimmers on my UTH and my CHE as a backup in case the thermostat fails open in my quarantine tank. All my other tanks have dual/redundant thermostats.
2. 90F is tops for a hot spot.
Temps for a BP should be:
Hot spot: 88-90F
Ambient: 80-84F
Cool side: 78-80F
3. Use a CHE instead of lamp and run it 24 hours a day. BP's do not need temp drops at night. I would get a 100W and a 150W and see what works best.
4. Hides. Does the BP have appropriate size hides and identical hides on the cool side and hot side? If not, he/she needs them.
Are you covering the screen top to keep humidity and heat in?
Humidity should be about 60% for your BP. If you don't have a humidity gauge, get one.
How are you measuring temps? If you don't have a temp gun to measure temps on the ground, get one, yesterday.
Get all that straightened out and then try to feed. Bad husbandry is the #1 cause of food refusal and illness.
Not trying to be harsh, but being straight with you.
Please advise when you have all this in place and you've left the BP alone for a while at proper temps and humidity. At least one week and then offer food.
P.S. DO NOT FORCE FEED YOUR BP! If it gets that point, you need a vet visit and the vet can determine if he/she needs that. It is absolutely a last resort. It is stressful and can cause major harm, especially if you don't know what you are doing. Please do not attempt that!
Last edited by dakski; 10-15-2018 at 07:05 PM.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to dakski For This Useful Post:
dr del (10-16-2018),Kira (10-15-2018),MissterDog (10-15-2018)
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