CHE Questions

[55fingers]

I use an UTH on a thermostat set to 94f, and the surface of the glass inside the tank is usually about 90f. In the past few days, I've noticed that the ambient temp is getting WAY too cold as fall's coming around, especially at night. He's still staying in his cold hide for some reason, but I'm worried about him. I'm thinking I need a CHE. I've never had one before, so I have a few questions:

I've heard mixed things about whether or not CHEs need thermostats? I know that a lot of bearded dragon owners say it's not necessary, but I've also heard that ALL heat sources need to be regulated.

If it needs a thermostat, would it be safe to switch off my UTH and just use the CHE on the thermostat? There's lots of debate about whether or not belly heat is necessary.

And can CHEs just go in any sort of fixture, as long as the wattage fits?

Thanks for the help!

[Craiga 01453]

Yes, ALL heat sources should be regulated.

No, you can't use any fixture. It has to have ceramic inside rather than plastic.

UTHs are not designed for ambient temps. They are simply there to provide a hot spot to aid in digestion.

In the warm weather months I unplug my UTHs and run ambient temps. In the cooler months, I run both. I haven't turned my UTHs back on yet, but will be within a few weeks.

So, unless the room your snake is in remains in the mid 80s you will need an additional heat source.

[55fingers]

Thanks for answering. The ambient temp is getting as low as 75f. That's way too cold. I'm really worried about him.

So, it's necessary to run both the UTH and CHE at the same time? I've heard some keepers just run CHE only? Do you think running just a CHE on a thermostat would be enough?

Also, I have my UTH thermostat probe sandwiched between the UTH and the glass, but where are you supposed to put a thermostat probe for a CHE?

[SquirmyPug]

I'm curious about this too, I'm actually just getting ready to go buy some kind of heater. Either a CHE or a radiant heater. Does ambient temperature need to be mid 80's everywhere or hotter on the side with the UTH?

[Craiga 01453]

Yeah, you don't want to get below 75.

I know there are plenty of people who don't use belly heat, but I've used it during the cold months and will continue to. It can't hurt.

I put my probe on the glass, just above the substrate. Attached with a hot glue gun.
But ice placed them in different spots, you just need to check surface temps with a temp gun and use trial and error to dial it in.

[SVT Wylde]

I just adopted my snake and I have a 20 gallon long for now. I’m running a Herpstat 2 with a UTH at 90 degrees and I just added a 100 watt CHE set at 84 degrees with the probe suction cupped 2 inches above the substrate.

I’m using a Zilla 8.5 dome light with a ceramic socket and a Flukers 100 watt CHE. My Herpstat doesn’t have any trouble keeping ambient temps at 84 degrees and the ceramic socket and light dome doesn’t get that hot at all. I have over 3/4 of the screen top blocked with a sheet of acrylic and that really helps hold heat in the enclosure. Can’t wait to get an AP tank with a radiant heat panel but this will do for now.

[CALM Pythons]

I just adopted my snake and I have a 20 gallon long for now. I’m running a Herpstat 2 with a UTH at 90 degrees and I just added a 100 watt CHE set at 84 degrees with the probe suction cupped 2 inches above the substrate.

I’m using a Zilla 8.5 dome light with a ceramic socket and a Flukers 100 watt CHE. My Herpstat doesn’t have any trouble keeping ambient temps at 84 degrees and the ceramic socket and light dome doesn’t get that hot at all. I have over 3/4 of the screen top blocked with a sheet of acrylic and that really helps hold heat in the enclosure. Can’t wait to get an AP tank with a radiant heat panel but this will do for now.

^^^ this is probably the best advice for a Glass tank, and Safe too.
With a 20 Gallon tank I’ve run a 100 Watt CHE without a Tstat in a house thats 68 at night and 70 day during winter and it kept the 20 Gallon breeder tank 78-80. This was only for a short Quarantine and I was home the entire time keeping a eye on it. The problem with not using a Tstat is that when the room temp changes the tank temp can sky rocket.. Thermostats will regulate that safely.


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[Cheesenugget]

I use an UTH on a thermostat set to 94f, and the surface of the glass inside the tank is usually about 90f. In the past few days, I've noticed that the ambient temp is getting WAY too cold as fall's coming around, especially at night. He's still staying in his cold hide for some reason, but I'm worried about him. I'm thinking I need a CHE. I've never had one before, so I have a few questions:

I've heard mixed things about whether or not CHEs need thermostats? I know that a lot of bearded dragon owners say it's not necessary, but I've also heard that ALL heat sources need to be regulated.

If it needs a thermostat, would it be safe to switch off my UTH and just use the CHE on the thermostat? There's lots of debate about whether or not belly heat is necessary.

And can CHEs just go in any sort of fixture, as long as the wattage fits?

Thanks for the help!

Is this for a beardie or a snake?

In general, I would use a t-stat with a CHE regardless of what species just because they can get way too hot. Never hurts to use one.

[Sunnieskys]

Thanks for answering. The ambient temp is getting as low as 75f. That's way too cold. I'm really worried about him.

So, it's necessary to run both the UTH and CHE at the same time? I've heard some keepers just run CHE only? Do you think running just a CHE on a thermostat would be enough?

Also, I have my UTH thermostat probe sandwiched between the UTH and the glass, but where are you supposed to put a thermostat probe for a CHE?

Run both. My uth is 90 and my Che is regulated by a reostat (dimmer) my ambient air is 80-82 depending on the weather outside. I run both all year long.

[CloudtheBoa]

It's up to you whether you use both, in my experience the UTH would be redundant though, since CHE's warm the floor below them rather well, so they provide belly heat. Especially if there are any dark heat-retaining hides right under it.

I would use a thermostat, yes. Dimming capable thermostats, such as a Herpstat or VE's are the only ones I know of that aren't strictly ON/OFF, but I don't many thermostats. haha ON/OFF and pulse-proportional will switch the bulb on and off, which can potentially shorten the lifespan of the bulb, and I've heard CHEs can explode. I had mine running for about 3-4 years straight without any issues. I now use RHPs or heat tape instead, but I'll probably use CHE's again in the future. I put the naked bulb (no dome) inside a wire mesh cage, so the bulb can safely go inside the cage.