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Registered User
New Member!
Hello, my name is Jing!
I spent a bit of time lurking on these forums enough to make an account and actively post! I'm 25 and own a ~3 month old ball python, who's name is Wrigley.
He got his name because his full morph is banana cinnamon champagne morph - bunch of desserts that make me think of juicy fruit!
I'm a new ball python owner, and Wrigley likes to test my worries.
A little info on his set habitat:
I keep him in a 10gal acrylic tank, with three hides, a water bowl, vines, and large leaves he likes to hide in. He likes to curl on the vines when he's awake for a few minutes before going back into a hide. I use loose coconut fiber for his substrate, and for the first few weeks i thought he was getting mites, but he seems to just get dirty when he burrows. His tank is usually between 88-80, but I'm from New Jersey and we just got a cold front, and his tank went down to 77-74. If anyone has any recommendations on another UTH i'm all ears, so that I can keep the tank warmer. The problem just started on monday, so i'm using two UTH's to keep him warm while I look for a bigger unit. His humidity stays between 66-80.
Wrigley is a super picky eater. Since getting him, he's only had two successful meals with me ( out of 4 ), and only live mice. After the winter, I'm going to try moving him into thawed rats. I actually use barb's feeding technique and its the only way he's happily eating.
He often boops his own little nose by accident and spooks himself on things, but isn't headshy anymore. I take him out almost daily for a few minutes, with exceptions when he's just recently fed or he's just not in the mood. I'll usually lay him on my chest under a blanket and watch tv, and he relaxes and comes out whenever he's ready.
I've also started singing to him, with regards to reading articles about vibrations. I do notice that if I sing to him as i approach his tank, he is not as skittish, and tends to be more relaxed.
Here's some photos of him:
Last edited by jdee; 09-11-2018 at 09:59 PM.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to jdee For This Useful Post:
C.Marie (09-12-2018),dr del (09-13-2018),Ronniex2 (09-12-2018)
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Hi...it's late so I'll keep this short for now...welcome Jing & Wrigley. (I have a "Wrigley" too, he's a 19 year old corn snake.)
You definitely need to address the cage temps.- that might be part of the reason he's being a fussy eater (though it also goes with the territory of keeping a BP).
The other issue is all the handling before he has settled in to eat regularly for you...it's not recommended, as it can disrupt their instincts on food, especially when
they're young. Snakes do feel vibrations so it may be that he's less startled because it's a signal that he recognizes as your presence (as opposed to the scary
appearance of something unknown). But we want you to be successful so I have to say "feeding is job ONE"- not sure what you mean about "Barb's feeding
technique"? As far as keeping his tank warmer, you can insulate the back & sides (w/ various things), &/or you can add an overhead heat source to help, but do
work on that a.s.a.p. or you'll have a sick BP & that's even less fun than a BP that's not eating. If you don't already have a thermostat controlling your UTH, you
need that too, like "yesterday".
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Bogertophis For This Useful Post:
C.Marie (09-12-2018),Craiga 01453 (09-12-2018),MissterDog (09-12-2018)
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Welcome what an amazing looking first noodle, very handsome fella indeed, wishing you two nothing but the best
Domestic Short Hair - Miss Becky
Russian Blue - Church
Miniature Poodle - Pierre LaPoodlePants
Banana BP - Yuri Katsuki
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Registered User
Re: New Member!
Originally Posted by Bogertophis
Hi...it's late so I'll keep this short for now...welcome Jing & Wrigley. (I have a "Wrigley" too, he's a 19 year old corn snake.)
You definitely need to address the cage temps.- that might be part of the reason he's being a fussy eater (though it also goes with the territory of keeping a BP).
The other issue is all the handling before he has settled in to eat regularly for you...it's not recommended, as it can disrupt their instincts on food, especially when
they're young. Snakes do feel vibrations so it may be that he's less startled because it's a signal that he recognizes as your presence (as opposed to the scary
appearance of something unknown). But we want you to be successful so I have to say "feeding is job ONE"- not sure what you mean about "Barb's feeding
technique"? As far as keeping his tank warmer, you can insulate the back & sides (w/ various things), &/or you can add an overhead heat source to help, but do
work on that a.s.a.p. or you'll have a sick BP & that's even less fun than a BP that's not eating. If you don't already have a thermostat controlling your UTH, you
need that too, like "yesterday".
hihi! He was a fussy eater before the temp changes. He's adjusted accordingly to eating now, and has been successful the last two feedings, not including the first hopper he ate when he first came home. He's fussy because I was attempting to feed him thawed food instead of live, because I couldn't locate a place that sold feeder mice for a brief period! While I wouldn't consider two feedings in a row consistent, I would hesitate to say that it's inconsistent or his finicky nature against thawed food is due to overhandling.
Barb's feeding technique is a sticky I found here, on this forum, that led me to successful feedings. I place Wrigley in a smaller and different enclosure set a little higher than normal with a waterbowl. I leave him in there for about 2/3 hours. I cover the whole tank with a dark t-shirt during that time so he isn't overwhelmed by the light, because i usually feed him in the day. After he's relaxed and situated, I drop a small mouse in, and leave an opening so that I can see what's going on to make sure he isn't getting hurt. Usually within 5 minutes he's taken it. I let him digest in there, and then carefully move him back to his tank and leave him alone for the next couple days.
In my post, I mentioned that my temps have only recently gone out of whack the last three days because we've hit a cool front for Hurricane Florence. I have a thermostat controller, a very accurate humidity gauge, and two UTHS to help keep a stable temp for him right now. I was just looking for a recc on a larger UTH, that's all
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Registered User
Re: New Member!
Originally Posted by C.Marie
Welcome what an amazing looking first noodle, very handsome fella indeed, wishing you two nothing but the best
thank you so much! he's pinkish with some yellow tinge in there, and definitely one of the loves of my life (apart from my boyfriend..heh ).
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The Following User Says Thank You to jdee For This Useful Post:
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Hello and welcome!!!
There are a few things I picked up on in your original post as well as your reply to Bogertophis.
First, those temps are low, which you've addressed and seem to be working on. However, you'll need an additional heat source. UTHs are there solely to provide a hot spot and are not designed for ambient temps. So, living in NJ, you will definitely need to add either a RHP (radiant heat panel) or a light fixture using either a bulb or a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). All heat sources should be regulated by a thermostat.
I live in MA so deal with the cold winters as well. I would be happy to tell you how I wrap my glass enclosures in 1/2" foam board insulation if you're interested. It keeps heat and humidity in while lowering electric bills.
As for the handling, it is HIGHLY recommended to let your snake acclimate and settle in for three consecutive meals without refusal. You're not doing yourself, or your snake, any favors by handling now. Your snake's health should be priority over your desire to handle your new pet.
And, with all due respect, you don't have the experience needed to determine if handling is an issue with a finicky eater.
Also, the seperate feeding tub is old school and proven counter productive over time.
There are literally ZERO benefits to feeding in a separate tub. Using a seperate feeding tub will
A) stress the snake and lead to refusals.
B) stress the snake and lead to regurgitating meals
C) drastically increase your chances of being bitten by a snake in feed mode.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Craiga 01453 For This Useful Post:
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RIP Mamba
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Wicked ones now on IG & FB!6292
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Welcome a board, hopefully the form can get you going in the direction that best suits your little friend!
1.0 Black Pastel Pinstripe
1.0 Reduced Pattern Clown
1.0 Low White Pied
1.0 Hypo Super Enchi
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