Okay, below are some care sheets I found on breeder and vet websites. Note the 90-100% humidity level in a moist hide and 75-80%+ constant and 90% + for Babies.
Also note that high heat is VERY BAD for them. More on this in a minute when I go over heating, etc.
However, general rule of thumb for reptiles; proper heat is good and there must always be a gradient. BRB's like a range of 75-83F, with a gradient, and with a 83F hot spot, +/- a degree. However, if proper heat is good, many people think more heat is better. NOT TRUE! Too hot can easily cause neurological damage to any reptile and also DEATH.
Reptiles can tolerate cooler temps for much longer than higher temps. For example, I have a female Boa (BCI) and she likes about 80-82F ambient, 78F cool spot, and a 86-88F hot spot. Over 95-97F and she can get neurological problems that can be permanent and over 100F she can die very quickly.
I know you said first snake, and I am being rudimentary here, but not trying to be condescending. For all I know you've cared for reptiles of other kinds for years. However, I am trying to be safe rather than sorry and also write things that might help other beginners.
Care Sheets:
http://www.moonlightboas.com/care-in...care-sheet.php
http://www.moonlightboas.com/care-in...inbow-boas.php
http://www.exoticpetvet.com/brazilia...-boa-care.html
http://www.therainbowboa.co.uk/Brazi..._caresheet.htm
http://rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com/ca...ainbow_boa.htm
Cage Basics:
The best tanks for reptiles, especially snakes, provide the following features:
1. Enclosed expect for doors
a) Keeps heat and humidity in well
b) provide a sense of security
c) Are ESCAPE PROOF
2. Have heating elements built in/easily put in
Depending on the size of the tank, and in your case, it won't need to be huge even long term, you can probably get away with 1 or 2 heating elements on the hot side only in a tank that's enclosed and well insulated. Especially since 75F is a good cool spot for a BRB.
I recommend Radiant Heat Panels (RHP) and UTH (Under tank heater), or just a RHP. RHP warm the hot spot but also the air in the tank to help create a gradient and not just warm the hot spot like UTH do.
I use both an RHP and UTH (heat tape in my tanks) even for my corn snakes (who like about an 83-84F hot spot and a cool spot anywhere from 72-78F). It means redundancy and I am big believer in belly heat for snakes especially.
Who manufactures these type of tanks?
Boaphile Plastics:
http://www.boaphileplastics.com
Jeff Ronne owns Boaphile and makes the tanks. This is what I have and I really like the tanks and Jeff was very helpful.
However, he rarely, if ever responds to emails. If you like his tank and/or have questions, call him at
507-263-7289, the number on his website and that he asks people to call instead of emailing.
Animal Plastics:
https://apcages.com
Many members here have AP tanks and love them.
Reptile Basics:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/caging/
I know very little about their tanks and have zero experience. However, probably worth looking into.
Additionally, reptile basics is a great source for cleaning solutions, hides, tongs, etc. Pretty much anything reptile you can think of. I've ordered from them plenty of times.
In the meantime, a small plastic storage box can be used for your little guy when you get him as explained by the care sheets and other members here can chime in. I've never used one, but from what I understand, and again, others should chime in, a bunch of air holes (which you can cover some of to keep humidity up or open to lower humidity if necessary), and a UTH that works with plastic, and your are good to go for a while. Cheap and easy.
The Basics:
1. All heat sources must be regulated by a thermostat. Get the best thermostat you can afford. Your reptiles life can literally depend on it.
I recommend a thermostat that can do multiple devices.
https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=76 is a good one for that on a limited budget. Check out the spyder robotics main page and you will see there are many options if you plan to expand heating devices or your collection.
I use that thermostat on my quarantine tank for a CHE and a UTH. I currently have a 4 month old baby scaleless corn in there. I have zero complaints.
For my main tanks I use the double/redundant thermostats that Jeff at Boaphile sells. These are on/off thermostats with high sensitivity where as spyder robotics are proportional. Both work fine, IMO. I use the redundant on/off thermostats because of bang for the buck and safety.
$190 from Boaphile for a redundant on/off thermostat that can run 20 heating elements. It's two thermostats in one, each with their own probe. I place the probes together/same spot in the tank or under the tank, and set the main thermostat for X degrees. The backup/secondary thermostat I set for 2F higher. That way, if the main thermostat fails, and worse, fails open, the secondary thermostat will take over and shut down the heating elements. Again, too cool is better than too hot!
2. Reptiles need places to hide and feel secure. HIDES are a must for 90% of species.
3. Substrate is needed.
For humidity purposes, you might want to use some of the moister/water absorbing substrates.
I use printless newspaper in all my tanks and recommend that for quarantine. It's very easy to clean up, but looks crappy and doesn't do much for humidity. My highest humidity animal is my BCI, who likes 65-70% and higher in shed. However, I have no trouble in the Boaphile tanks maintaining that all spring and summer here in CT, and in the winter, a few quick sprays from a water bottle every day or every other day, keeps it where it needs to be.
Quick note: If/when you spray water into a reptile tank. USE HOT/WARM WATER.
Cold or even room temp tap water is too cold and gets colder when sprayed in a fine mist. It will lower temps fast in tanks. No good.
I use hot tap water - 110F or so. When I mist into the tank, it generally comes out in the 80F range. So, I don't have a drastic change in temps, if at all.
4. Cleanliness is very important.
If you use substrate, spot clean and change all substrate every 4-6 weeks, closer to 4 if it's really humid in the tank.
If you use newsprint of paper products, change the paper when there's waste, use a cleaner like F10SC,
http://www.reptilebasics.com/F10SC-100ml, and replace the paper.
First snake
If you read up and are dedicated to maintaining proper temps and humidity, I think a BRB is fine. A lot of that has to do with choosing the right enclosure and equipment.
They don't get huge at all, are beautiful animals, and have great temperaments, especially if you work with them from a young age and build trust.
However, and FINALLY, a question! What drew you to a BRB? What are you looking for in a snake?
I love corn snakes, and despite having 7 reptile tanks and 8 reptiles, including a Blue Tonge Skink, Leopard Geckos, a ball python, and a BCI, I have two corn snakes. They are incredibly easy to care for, are very forgiving with husbandry, are beautiful and come in virtually every color/morph you can imagine, get a good size, and eat like clock work.
To me, they are a wonderful first snake and I still have two now even after keeping reptiles for over 20 years. They can also spend their entire life in a 40 gallon tank with a CHE and/or UTH as they don't need high heat or humidity.
Not pushing for a corn snake. I am just explaining that there are many species that are less sensitive to husbandry, can live in a cheaper setup for life, and are wonderful pets.
Either way, we want to help. If it's a BRB you are stuck on, we will help work with you to make that a success.
If you are open to other species, we are happy to discuss that with you too.
Sorry for the long response, but I wanted to be thorough.
Please ask for clarification on anything, or just ask anything that's on your mind. Again, we ultimately want what's best for you and your new addition, whatever that is!
Good luck!
Originally Posted by dakski
Okay, below are some care sheets I found on breeder and vet websites. Note the 90-100% humidity level in a moist hide and 75-80%+ constant and 90% + for Babies.
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