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  1. #11
    BPnet Lifer zina10's Avatar
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    I've heard that for the ones that small, paper towels are best, as you can monitor the "output".

    But it may make it difficult to keep the humidity right, plus, with 4 in there you wouldn't know who poops and who doesn't. So unless you can separate them, I don't know if paper towels will make a difference.

    But, I have heard some little ones getting impactions from trying to pick insects off of substrate and getting a mouthful of substrate in their mouth.

    You are right, shame on the breeders for sending such teeny ones out. I HAVE seen them for sale for as tiny as 3 grams, but that is for sale to a actual home, not a middle man. Even then, I would not sell them that tiny.

    Thing is, it can take up to 4 weeks for them to start eating when they are stressed from a move. And they grow quite slow, usually. So you may be in for the long haul
    Zina

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  2. #12
    BPnet Senior Member Sunnieskys's Avatar
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    I am totally ok with the long haul as long as they thrive. I am one to break protocol as well for them to thrive. My animals are more important. They are the size of my thumb. I will leave them on the reptibark so they won't get impacted. I am also learning so much so I can properly educate people on cresties so thank you! I appreciate all the help.
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  4. #13
    BPnet Senior Member artgecko's Avatar
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    I would provide more fake plants and sticks / branches to climb if possible...If you can get some plants to suction-cup to the upper parts of the tank, even better, as they like to hide higher in the cage.

    If you can cover part of the screen lid to help hold more humidity in, that would be great, as well as blocking out some of the sides with paper (even, say, brown paper towels taped outside to cover the back / sides) that would help them feel more secure.

    Over / under heating and dehydration seem to be the main killers with them that young / small.

    If you do feed more insects as treats, please make sure they are gut loaded and dusted just like you would for a beardie or chameleon.

    I own cresteds, gargs, and a leachie, but have never raised them from hatchlings. Several years ago I purchased a female from a breeder and he included a hatchling with her for free (about 2 grams). I kept him in a kritter keeper on paper towels and he died from dehydration even with once daily misting. The KK was too ventilated I think and the towels didn't hold enough moisture. By the time I realized there was a problem, it was too late. :/
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  6. #14
    Telling it like it is! Stewart_Reptiles's Avatar
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    So quick run down at this size

    First keep them separated, communal is not ideal until they are adult and proper weight, young cresties will bully each others which means one or two may eat less and fall even more behind because of being bullied.

    Ideal enclosure a small critter keeper or exo terra nano which is 8 x 8 x 12 with paper towel piece of cork (keep it simple), no heat, no uv, no additional light unless it's LED (meaning it does not get warm)

    Ideal temps in the mid 70's avoid at all cost temps over 80/82 they will stress and die.

    Spray once a day.

    For food Pangea Watermelon will usually satisfy even the most picky geckos, because they are so young I would feed them 2 to 3 meals with a syringes at first (no needle of course 4 cc or smaller), fill up with the food and while handling (not restricting) the crestie use the syringe to put food on the tip of it's nose and once it's start licking it off push the food slowly so it lick it off the syringe's tip. Works great to get young geckos to start to eat and less messy than using your finger. I used to start my hatchlings like that.

    Right after you put them back in the critter keeper after feeding just place them by the food.
    Last edited by Stewart_Reptiles; 04-20-2018 at 05:21 PM.
    Deborah Stewart


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  8. #15
    BPnet Senior Member Sunnieskys's Avatar
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    Re: New creates at work

    Quote Originally Posted by Deborah View Post
    So quick run down at this size

    First keep them separated, communal is not ideal until they are adult and proper weight, young cresties will bully each others which means one or two may eat less and fall even more behind because of being bullied.

    Ideal enclosure a small critter keeper or exo terra nano which is 8 x 8 x 12 with paper towel piece of cork (keep it simple), no heat, no uv, no additional light unless it's LED (meaning it does not get warm)

    Ideal temps in the mid 70's avoid at all cost temps over 80/82 they will stress and die.

    Spray once a day.

    For food Pangea Watermelon will usually satisfy even the most picky geckos, because they are so young I would feed them 2 to 3 meals with a syringes at first (no needle of course 4 cc or smaller), fill up with the food and while handling (not restricting) the crestie use the syringe to put food on the tip of it's nose and once it's start licking it off push the food slowly so it lick it off the syringe's tip. Works great to get young geckos to start to eat and less messy than using your finger. I used to start my hatchlings like that.

    Right after you put them back in the critter keeper after feeding just place them by the food.
    Great advice. I cannot however seperate them since I do not have enough enclosures to do so. I will syringe feed them. I have trex food for them. Or I have one type of reph food on the floor. I put more plants in there for them to hide. I will cover th e sides and top. I have seen poop on the glass today.

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  9. #16
    BPnet Lifer zina10's Avatar
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    Deborah's advice is spot on.

    I understand you have limitations because they belong to the store, but is it a possibility that you could take them home while they are so fragile? If they are just being kept in a back room of the store, it shouldn't make any difference, right ?

    If you could take them home you could probably have the perfect temperatures without any lights. I know stores can get pretty cold at night.

    Also, at home you could easily and cheaply separate them. You could use little tubs. 4 small tubs that you either burn air holes into, or cut out a piece of the lid or front of the tub and hotglue some screen over the opening, so you get good airflow. That would also hold humidity well, while allowing it to dry out a bit. Water and food dishes can be free, simple bottle caps. For hiding you can use paper towel roll pieces , small cork or even a piece of egg crate.

    It would end up costing very little.

    That is IF they would let you do that..

    I have heard that that T-Rex was just relabeled Repashy complete crested gecko diet. If that is so, then that should be fine as food. As long as it is a complete diet (mix a smoothie) and not the hard or jelly pieces. I would leave food available always PLUS do the syringe feeding.

    They must be SO tiny..
    Zina

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  10. #17
    BPnet Senior Member Sunnieskys's Avatar
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    Re: New creates at work

    Quote Originally Posted by zina10 View Post
    Deborah's advice is spot on.

    I understand you have limitations because they belong to the store, but is it a possibility that you could take them home while they are so fragile? If they are just being kept in a back room of the store, it shouldn't make any difference, right ?

    If you could take them home you could probably have the perfect temperatures without any lights. I know stores can get pretty cold at night.

    Also, at home you could easily and cheaply separate them. You could use little tubs. 4 small tubs that you either burn air holes into, or cut out a piece of the lid or front of the tub and hotglue some screen over the opening, so you get good airflow. That would also hold humidity well, while allowing it to dry out a bit. Water and food dishes can be free, simple bottle caps. For hiding you can use paper towel roll pieces , small cork or even a piece of egg crate.

    It would end up costing very little.

    That is IF they would let you do that..

    I have heard that that T-Rex was just relabeled Repashy complete crested gecko diet. If that is so, then that should be fine as food. As long as it is a complete diet (mix a smoothie) and not the hard or jelly pieces. I would leave food available always PLUS do the syringe feeding.

    They must be SO tiny..
    They are as big as my thumb and very active. I put more plants in today. I worry about tube a since I mist in the morning and at night wouldn't the tube get soggy. And I can't take them home. They cannot leave the store. The room they are has its own heater set for animals so I believe it is 70 or 72 degrees.

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    Booplesnoop
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  11. #18
    BPnet Senior Member Sunnieskys's Avatar
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    Re: New creates at work

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunnieskys View Post
    They are as big as my thumb and very active. I put more plants in today. I worry about tube a since I mist in the morning and at night wouldn't the tube get soggy. And I can't take them home. They cannot leave the store. The room they are has its own heater set for animals so I believe it is 70 or 72 degrees.

    Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
    I did see one drinking off the leaf when I misted tonight so that's a good sign. Thanks everyone for your advice!

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    Booplesnoop
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  13. #19
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    Re: New creates at work

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunnieskys View Post
    Ok we got 4 new cresties at work. They are tiny at 2g each. So I have them in the back until they gain some weight. Problem is....I know nothing about them. I need help to make sure they eat and grow. Thanks everyone!

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    Let me preface this by saying this: you've proven to be the exception to the rule when it comes to the big box stores. You've certainly earned my respect and I WISH you worked at one of the locations near me, but WA and MA couldn't be much further apart. I WISH there was one of you in every store!

    That brings me to my questions:
    1) if memory serves me correct, you manage the reptile dept right?
    2) who orders new reptiles for sale in the store?
    Last edited by Craiga 01453; 04-21-2018 at 06:59 AM.

  14. #20
    BPnet Senior Member Sunnieskys's Avatar
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    Re: New creates at work

    Quote Originally Posted by craigafrechette View Post
    Let me preface this by saying this: you've proven to be the exception to the rule when it comes to the big box stores. You've certainly earned my respect and I WISH you worked at one of the locations near me, but WA and MA couldn't be much further apart. I WISH there was one of you in every store!

    That brings me to my questions:
    1) if memory serves me correct, you manage the reptile dept right?
    2) who orders new reptiles for sale in the store?
    1. Correct. all the animals in store including fish and small animals are mine.

    2. I order if certain animals have found homes. So, for example, ball pythons are not available until mid June early July as well as corn snakes so I ordered pueblans in their place. I look at a couple of things when ordering. 1. Is it in my store code to be able to order. 2. How easy is the animal care and clean up and 3. Do I partner with another store close to be to be able to share the order. I won't ever order an animal I haven't researched.

    I did not order these geckos and I tried to cancel the order. And when I couldn't I asked other stores near me if they needed any. Since they are underweight and cannot be placed on the sales floor until then I will give them all the love until they get up to proper weight.

    You guys should start an ask Sunny about box store questions lol. I'm happy you are asking lol.


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    Coilsome, Odyn, & Eeden AKA theLittleOne

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    *~* Nothing sticky (tape, stick on gauges, Velcro) goes into your enclosure! Again...NOTHING sticky goes into your enclosure....EVER! *~*

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