Am I good?

[n1c0l3]

Okay I have 10gal Acrylic? Tank for a baby ball python he’s probably 1.5 feet long or less
I’m using reptibark and its really thin on the warm spot maybe like 1/4 an inch and thicc everywhere else 1/2-1 1/2 inch thick gradient from middle of tank to the cold end

I use a temp gun and the bottom inside glass’
Temp at is lowest is 83 degrees highest 88-89 in the warm spots but the top of substraight on warm side is like 79-80 ish and then cold side is at 71-72

Humidity ??? Haven’t gotten a hygrometers yet and I have a towel on top of screen to keep humidity in

I know the hides are different I’m gonna try and get the same side today but for now this is my set up






I hope he doesn’t notice he’s trees are fake 🤧
Sorry for the paragraphs

[Aedryan Methyus]

That's cute... lol The problem you are going to face with an aquarium is that they do not hold temperature or humidity. Unfortunately, snakes are much better off in plastic storage containers.

[krampvs]

What are you using for heating elements? Do you have a thermostat?
Your snake is going to get its heat from the top of the substrate, not the bottom of the glass, unless it spends its time under the substrate. You need your warm side temps to be 88-90 and the cooler side should be no less than 75 where the snake will be​. Some would even say 75 is too cold.

[tttaylorrr]

good, but not great.

your hot spot temps are good! you need to raise that cool side to get above 75° F. try and aim for 77° F.

you mentioned the hide issue already so i won't address that.

you need to be measuring your humidity as that's going to be your biggest husbandry issue with that set-up, guaranteed. get a hygrometer asap.

IMO you should get a bit more clutter. i think a fake leaf vine laid throughout the enclosure would do a really good job of helping the snake feel secure when they move about.

your background is so cute!!! i love it!

[n1c0l3]

I’m using a UTH but I also have a solid CHE if needed be and yes I have a thermostat the glass is at 83-88 if I raise it so that the substrate is at 88 the glass might be to hot and if he ever burrows himself in the warm side I’m worried he might get burned?

And I have no idea how to heat up the cold side would the CHE do it? Would it be to hot? And if I use a CHE we’re should I place it over the water bowl so like top middle of the cage? So that it increases humidity? Idk man

What are you using for heating elements? Do you have a thermostat?
Your snake is going to get its heat from the top of the substrate, not the bottom of the glass, unless it spends its time under the substrate. You need your warm side temps to be 88-90 and the cooler side should be no less than 75 where the snake will be​. Some would even say 75 is too cold.

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[krampvs]

Lol it's okay What wattage is your CHE? Personally, I have a 20L tank and I use a UTH on a thermostat set at 89F and then my 100W CHE heats the warm side ambient temp to 88F. I also have a 60W IR heat lamp that keeps to cool side between 78-80, so my ambient gradient is 78F to 88F and his hot spot is 89F. I have the CHE and the UTH on the warm side and then the IR lamp over the cool side.
To increase humidity, you can put a towel over the screen top, and you can also mist the enclosure. That works for me since I use cypress mulch for bedding and it keeps moisture in nicely. You don't want it to be WET though, as that can lead to scale rot. Definitely grab a digital hygrometer though

[Skyrivers]

That's cute... lol The problem you are going to face with an aquarium is that they do not hold temperature or humidity. Unfortunately, snakes are much better off in plastic storage containers.

Putting wax paper across the screen leaving a hole for the heat lamp if using one to shine through and enough air flow for oxygen and humidity should be ok.

[Crowfingers]

In a 10 gal tank an unregulated CHE will cook everything - even the low wattage ones. They get 300-400*F to the touch and will generally increase the temp below the bulb to well over 115*F, unless they are regulated.

You can even use a dimmer switch, but a thermostat would be best. I have two CHE's in my AP cage that is much larger than a 10 gal tank - the 100 watt keeps my hot side at 88 and the 50 watt keeps my cool side between 81-82, my ambient 79-81*F at all times. So a 50 watt in a 10 gal tank may keep the entire tank the same temperature, but if you get it to 80-82, then have the UTH bumping up the hot hide to 88-90 you may be fine. There would be less of a thermal gradient, but in that small of an area it may be your best bet...if I understand correctly that is how most rack systems work anyway - overall correct temp with a higher belly heat spot.

You'll want to experiment with temps and regulation BEFORE adding the snake. You're going to have issues with humidity, so keeping the tank lid covered will help. Also adding damp sphagnum moss on each side and keeping in damp. Just make sure it is in a shallow dish so your bedding does not mold.

[n1c0l3]

I have two thermostats I can plug the 100W CHE to the second one place it in the middle and have the thermostat probe in the middle and have the temp regulate at 75-80 in the middle of tank is that good enough?

And so I understand correctly.. I have a UTH and I checked the bottom inside glass temp it’s at 87-88 and the substrate is thin enough so that the heat can go through but the top is registering at 80 the substrate isn’t the thing that should be at 88 right it’s the bottom inside glass?

In a 10 gal tank an unregulated CHE will cook everything - even the low wattage ones. They get 300-400*F to the touch and will generally increase the temp below the bulb to well over 115*F, unless they are regulated.

You can even use a dimmer switch, but a thermostat would be best. I have two CHE's in my AP cage that is much larger than a 10 gal tank - the 100 watt keeps my hot side at 88 and the 50 watt keeps my cool side between 81-82, my ambient 79-81*F at all times. So a 50 watt in a 10 gal tank may keep the entire tank the same temperature, but if you get it to 80-82, then have the UTH bumping up the hot hide to 88-90 you may be fine. There would be less of a thermal gradient, but in that small of an area it may be your best bet...if I understand correctly that is how most rack systems work anyway - overall correct temp with a higher belly heat spot.

You'll want to experiment with temps and regulation BEFORE adding the snake. You're going to have issues with humidity, so keeping the tank lid covered will help. Also adding damp sphagnum moss on each side and keeping in damp. Just make sure it is in a shallow dish so your bedding does not mold.

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[Crowfingers]

I have a UTH and I checked the bottom inside glass temp it’s at 87-88 and the substrate is thin enough so that the heat can go through but the top is registering at 80 the substrate isn’t the thing that should be at 88 right it’s the bottom inside glass?

That is correct, that way if he burrows under the substrate he does not burn himself. However, if he is not a burrower, then you may have to thin the substrate even further. Mine has never burrowed despite having 2 inches of bedding - but I also do not use under the tank pads, so mine would not need to burrow to get warmer.