Another "Help! My BP wont eat!"

[Cheesenugget]

About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I purchased my first snake ever, a baby banana ball python from repticon.
Breeder says he was probably a few months old, eats live hoppers or rat pups about a few days ago and completed his shed. I don't know his weight. He fits about the size of a hand. Breeder says I can easily switch him to f/t.

His tank is a 10 gallon glass tank, front and sides covered with a towel which also covered about half of his tank for humidity purposes. His tank is located at a quiet spot with very little traffic and ambient lights from my skin's terrarium.

His hot spot is 88-90 F. Cool side about 80F. Using UTH. Humidity level is 50-60%. During his stuck shed (More on that later), I bumped the humidity up to 70% using moss and light misting.

He has 2 hides, one on each side, with a bowl of water big enough for him to soak in and placed in between the hides, near the UTH for additional humidity. There are fake plants placed around the tank for additional cover. I do have dogs and cats but with the towel blocking their view of the snake, they leave him alone.

On his 2nd day home, I noticed pieces of shed around the tank. When I bought him, his eyes were not blue. So I figured, ok, first shed is usually a bad one with the new owner. I raised his humidity and added a drift wood for him to scratch. When that did not help much after a few days, I soaked him in a warm bath. It took an hour of soaking until I can really see the skin come off easy. There was some really stuck to his neck and chin. I put him back, hoping the humidity will help it come off naturally. A few days later, I tried to feed him a f/t mouse fuzzy in case he will take it, which he did not. I was using a smaller prey because many suggested that helps with the transition to f/t.

Second week, I checked on his shedding. It is still stick on his neck. I placed him in a warm bath. After an hour, I used a rubber piece to help rub off the skin. It was stuck on so hard that I had to end up peeling it off by hand. After that, it looks like everything came off. Placed him back in the tank, kept the humidity up in case I missed anything. A few days later, I tried feeding him a f/t rat pup. He became scared and did a defense strike at it. I left the pup overnight and found it unbeaten the next morning.

He became more active shortly after I removed his shed. He comes out of his hide at sundown, mostly trying to get out of the tank. During the day, he hides.

I was follow the 5-day rule of feeding babies, so when it is time for the 3rd attempt, this time trying for the f/t mouse fuzzy again, still no strike. I tried placing him and the mouse in a small paperwork and left the bag in his tank overnight. Nothing happened.

The last attempt was last night.

I bought a frozen hopper. After it was thawed, heated to about 99-100 degrees, dipped in chicken broth and dried with a hair dryer, I tried again. After the zombie dance has failed, I placed it under a new hide not far from where he is. He did not eat that one either.

In general, I thaw all frozen using the plastic bag/warm tap water method, tried scenting using a hair dryer or drying in room temp on the screen top of his tank, I even rubbed bedding and poop from my hamster on the mice. All attempts are made at night around 9 to 11 pm. All made in the dark, with my cats and dogs locked away temporarily so I can feed him undisturbed.

Last night, he also did not come out of his hide like he did before. At least not when I checked on him. He may or may not moved around after I went to bed.

I. Am. So. Aggravated.

He is losing weight. His backbone is starting to show. His skin is getting wrinkled.

He has not poop since I got him. I am starting to think he did not eat before I got him or he has parasites. I can't imagine 2-3 weeks of no food can make him lose weight this fast but then again I cannot tell what is normal or not as I don't have the experience yet.

I don't have an issue with a BP going on feeding strike. I was told only adults do this and it was normal as long as it is healthy. And that babies will eat much better.

I don't want to assist or force feed as I was told that is the last resort.

I plan to buy a live hopper this Friday and try again Sat. I am hoping he will eat but so far, for each attempt, he showed zero interest in anything I bring to him. He is not peaking his head out of his hide, no tongue flicking, etc.

I only handled him 2x briefly and both times were to help him with his stuck shed.

Any ideas of what is going on?

[Cheesenugget]

Forgot to add: I use a digital thermometer and the hides are small plastic containers about 6 inches wide (round). He fits in them nicely. He uses both hot and cool sides but seems to prefer warm more.

[Aerries]

His hot spot is 88-90 F. Cool side about 80F. Using UTH. Humidity level is 50-60%. During his stuck shed (More on that later), I bumped the humidity up to 70% using moss and light misting.

Any ideas of what is going on?

First thing first...is your UTH regulated by a t-stat? if not UNPLUG IT NOW! and secondly imo get to a trusted and qualified reptile vet.

[MD_Pythons]

It's probably your snake not feeling secure in your setup, you need to follow this guide to a T. Since you just got this snake you should get it feeding live steadily before you try to switch to f/t.

[Cheesenugget]

First thing first...is your UTH regulated by a t-stat? if not UNPLUG IT NOW! and secondly imo get to a trusted and qualified reptile vet.

Yes, the UTH is hooked to a thermostat.

Secondly, I am trying to postpone the vet visit because of the stress. It might drive him to not eat even more.

[Cheesenugget]

It's probably your snake not feeling secure in your setup, you need to follow this guide to a T. Since you just got this snake you should get it feeding live steadily before you try to switch to f/t.

Ok. I will pick up the supplies mentioned in the link and give it a try. In the event he still refused to eat, especially after the live hopper I will buy this week, how long do you think a baby ball python can continue to fast like this?

[CALM Pythons]

Ok. I will pick up the supplies mentioned in the link and give it a try. In the event he still refused to eat, especially after the live hopper I will buy this week, how long do you think a baby ball python can continue to fast like this?

He can go months without a problem. You seem to have done your homework. Don't get to nervous. If he doesn't eat Saturday wait a full week before you try again. If you try to often refusing can become a habit.

[CALM Pythons]

First thing first...is your UTH regulated by a t-stat? if not UNPLUG IT NOW! and secondly imo get to a trusted and qualified reptile vet.

As far as a Vet.. nobody can run to a vet every time a Ball Python doesn't eat. They wouldn't do anything anyways except run a fecal...this happens constantly when people bring a new snake home. Give it some time and make sure husbandry is all good.