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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran Starscream's Avatar
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    Tall Tub CHE+Light Build (with pictures)

    Been installing a new dome on my tub so I thought I'd make a post documenting how I did it.

    Most folks recommend short, small tubs for ball python hatchlings, and that's fine, so long as your husbandry's on point. Larger tubs are also fine, as long as you can maintain those same husbandry points and include more hides. I like to give mine the opportunity to climb, which is nearly impossible in short setups. This also allows a more natural temperature gradient across the tub itself, and gives the snake greater opportunities to regulate its temperature.

    This setup is only intended for hatchling, juvenile, sub-adult, and small male adult ball pythons, and not 3' or longer adults. An IRIS Christmas tree tub or PVC enclosure would be better suited for an adult ball python.

    Please note that this is filled with my opinions, and I recommend you research husbandry and care before committing to a setup like mine.

    I'll list my supplies, and then where I got them, where available.

    Supplies:
    Tall/large tub - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite...Black/49527422
    CHE bulb 150W – lots to choose from on Amazon
    Ceramic socket lamp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KPMCPG
    UVB light OR bright daylight bulb (optional) – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ47JFV
    Outlet timer (optional) – Amazon, Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
    Under tank heater (optional)
    Zip ties
    Gardening wire
    Mesh wire/grill mesh mats (smaller grade for smaller snakes) - Amazon
    ThermoSTAT/Rheostat - Herpstat2 OR Jumpstart thermostat x2 OR Jumpstart plus dimmer switch
    Thermometers x2 - https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-pack-Th...itor/585327296
    Hydrometers (if your thermometers aren't dual purpose like mine)
    IR temperature gun – Amazon, your choice of thousands
    Surge protector
    Hides (As many as you can fit)
    Climbing materials - PVC, bamboo, small pet wood ladder
    Substrate
    Water bowl
    General decorations/fake plants
    Dog leash snap hooks

    Tools:
    Hand drill OR soldering iron
    Sharpie
    Scissors
    Tin snips (if using hand drill)
    That's it that's all you need

    If you would like to do something similar to me, there are some considerations to make. These will depend upon ambient temperatures in your home and, quite frankly, personal preference.

    Heat:
    For a tub this size, an under tank heater (UTH) isn't going to do anything for air temperatures. If the room you're keeping your snake in isn't constantly between 80-85F, you're going to want to look into alternate heating methods. Radiant heat panels are not exactly practical for this size tub – the lids on Sterilite tubs aren't as sturdy as the tubs themselves. Instead, I use a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) and this dual dome lamp I picked up off Amazon:


    Any lamp would work, so long has it has a ceramic socket. Anything else is a fire hazard, and WILL catch on fire eventually.

    As for the wattage of the CHE, get one as high as your lamp allows. Mine will support a bulb up to 160 watts, so I'm using a 150 watt CHE. We will be modulating this later with a rheostat or a thermostat.

    Do not use colored lamps, as reptiles can see the light, and it will eventually lead to a stressed animal when combined with other factors.

    UTH (optional): Depending on the size of your tub, the wattage of the CHE/size of the lamp, and the ambient air temperatures, you may need to use a UTH. While they don't raise air temperatures by themselves, if applied to the side of the tub rather than the bottom, it can help raise the temperatures if used with the CHE.

    As always, all heat sources need to be plugged into a thermostat. If they are not, you are needlessly risking your reptile's health. For this build, you may need to use a thermostat that can support two devices such as the Herpstat 2 or VE-300x2, or a thermostat and a rheostat/dimmer.

    Humidity:

    Tubs are usually amazing at holding humidity. However, because of the nature of CHEs, you will lose some of that humidity. There are a few ways to combat this.

    Substrate choice: Do not use newspaper, paper towels, or aspen for this build. They won't retain humidity, and you'll be constantly misting the tub, which is against the point of using a tub. Using water-retaining substrates such as coco chip, cypress mulch, and coco husk are good choices.

    Water bowl size: Changing the size of water bowl can affect your humidity level. The water bowl must be on the hot side to affect the humidity, otherwise the CHE will negate it.

    Number of air holes: Reducing the number of holes you drill in the sides of the tub will help with humidity. Keep in mind that there will be a hole in the lid of the tub to accommodate the CHE. All air will flow in from the holes on the sides of the tubs, then leave through the hole in the lid. Hot air rises, and the air beneath the CHE will be hot. Therefore, limiting the number of holes in the tub to begin with is a good idea. Add more if you feel your humidity levels are too high (around 85-100%). If they're high immediately after adding new substrate, that is normal. Wait about 24 hours at least to see what baking under a CHE does for you before drilling more holes.

    Lighting:
    I hesitate to say that lighting isn't a necessity for snakes, because while they may be nocturnal, they are also a kind of reptile, and most reptiles benefit from light. In the wild they would have the option to leave their burrows as the sun sets and soak in some rays if they wanted to. Having a light on 24/7 is bad, but using one on a 12 on/12 off cycle is a good idea. It gives them regularity, helps them to dictate their circadian rhythm, and they know when night is. If you are using a 100% opaque tub, using a light on a timer is a good idea. Feel free to disregard this section if you would rather not give your snake a light, but I would like to note that it's easy enrichment to give.

    Since my lamp has two domes, and we're modifying the tub anyways, I'm going to go ahead and use a light.

    Another note: If you have a lightly-colored snake, such as a BEL, albino, or a high-white pied, or any morph where the melanin has been greatly reduced, you will want to consider either using a light with little to no UVB, or no light at all. In these cases the light could do more harm than good, as these snakes lack the necessary pigments to filter out harmful light wavelengths. Check out Table 1B on the UVGuide for an idea of what pigmentation does for transmission of light through shed skin: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/skintests.htm

    UVA/UVB: I use UVB lights, which is also not a necessity. Snakes get all the calcium/D3 they need from prey items, but I do find that my snake will bask in her light for a good 30 minutes before it turns itself off. Another thing with UVB lights is that it emits UVA light. UVA is a part of the spectrum that humans can't see, but reptiles can; using a UVA/UVB light allows them to see with their full color vision.

    The bulb I'll be using:


    I chose the two-pack because they only last 6 months, and something unexpected could happen to them before then. Reptisuns are pretty decent bulbs and have been tested and approved by Fran Baines, so I would suggest using Reptisun bulbs over the Exo Terras at this point.

    It should be noted that the bulbs will continue to work after 6 months, but they will no longer be producing UVB. That part of the bulb degrades over time, hence why the bulbs have to be replaced so often.

    Ball pythons are nocturnal, so they don't need very much UVB light. A 5% UVB light would work best, unless your snake is lacking a lot of melanin, then a 2% would be better. I'll be using a Reptisun 5.0 Mini 13w, because the basking distance is shorter than the 26w version, and that gives me more leeway for basking options.

    Only Arcadia florescent tube lights are available for the 2% UVB option. Using a T8 fixture+bulb with a mesh guard would reduce the amount of UVB output even more to be less harmful for a lightly-colored snake, so you may want to consider that instead of my build.

    It should also be noted that any grade of mesh will cut down the amount of UVB that gets to the snake. The finer the grade, the less UVB that gets inside the enclosure. Only a Solarmeter 6.5/6.0 can tell your how much UV is reaching the snake, but they're around $200. In lieu of that, check out this website to get a better idea of what you'll need for your setup. http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm

    As for personal experiences with how lighting/UV effects ball pythons, I have noticed an increase in night-time behavior with the correct light fixture. She will come out to bask in the light about 15-30 minutes before it shuts off. She will also find 'hiding spots' around the tub within the fake plants, closer to the light than her hides. I installed the new bulb and she immediately poked her head outside of her hide to see what was up – pun intended.

    PM me if you want to know more about lights.

    Other light options: If you don't want to provide UVB, you can find bright daylight bulbs. LED is fine, and will produce very little heat. Fluorescent lights will produce heat, so that's something to take into consideration.

    Enrichment

    Enrichment is providing activities that allow your animals to complete natural behaviors. For instance, one natural behavior is using tight-fitting hides as shelters. Another is digging in substrate. Another is climbing. Ball pythons have been noted to engage in all three of these behaviors, and more. In some cases, such as climbing and digging, it gives the animal opportunities for exercise and building muscle. I believe this is very important for a species that can easily become overweight in captivity.

    Digging: Use substrates like coco husk or organic soil and mix it in with your substrate of choice. These are less like to be packed down and encourage digging behaviors. Because of the height of the tub, we can put a deeper level of substrate into which your snake can burrow.

    If you're worried about impaction, lay down a piece of paper or a paper plate and feed on top of that. I tend to feed while my snake is on top of her climbing materials, so the prey item rarely touches the ground. Feeding outside of the enclosure can cause additional stress to your animal. Not fun.

    I use a deep layer of substrate and a small tupperware container filled with sphagnum moss that my snake loves to dig in when she's in shed.


    Climbing: Use the height of the tub to provide climbing opportunities. You can drill branches or large dowel rods into the tub. Consider sealing the wood with a water-based protective finish to prevent mold and bugs from appearing. PVC pipes also work – use animal-safe silicone to attach to the sides of the tub, or be lazy like me and drill tiny holes in the sides, and then stick nails through them and the inside of the PVC pipes.



    I built a ladder out of bamboo rods and zip-ties that also works as a climbing opportunity. This might not work for a larger snake, because the zip-ties slide when applied with force.


    Further climbing options are decorations you can find in small pet and bird sections of pet stores or on Amazon. Make sure the woods used in these products are reptile safe (must he hardwoods and not softwoods).


    Hiding: Provide lots of hides for your snake to choose from. This will also help them feel more secure in a larger setup. Fake plants all over the enclosure will help the snake feel more secure as it travels around the enclosure.

    You can also use paper towel rolls or other tube-like structures (4 inch PVC pipe maybe, or cork rounds) and bury one end into a deep area of the substrate, to create an underground hide. This may also encourage digging.

    Other: You can put other things in the enclosure to provide mental stimulation, such as smells. Maybe put an article of your clothing in there for a week, or rotate decorations between snakes (ONLY if they have completed quarantine to your satisfaction). That way they get new smells to explore. Sky's the limit, or in this case, the dimensions of the tub ;3.

    As noted in the section above, providing a light is also considered enrichment. It gives them the option to bask for UVB rays, and it allows them to have a natural day/night cycle so that they know when to hide and sleep and when to come out and explore.

    How To Set Up This Ding Dang Tub For A CHE/Light, Already!:

    Testing the CHE.
    Plug the CHE and lamp straight into that wall, hang it somewhere where it can't hurt anyone or catch on fire, and let it go for a few hours.



    This purpose of this step is to test how hot our dome's going to get. This will dictate the size of the hole we'll be making in the tub lid. If it exceeds the working temperature of Sterilite plastic, then you'll have to make it bigger. Sterilite tubs have a working temperature up to about 250F, while the lids having a working temperature up to 176F.


    The surface temperature of the bottom of my dome is 117F, so I will only need to make sure the dome doesn't rest on the plastic (about an inch to half inch margin between the dome and the lid). If your dome exceeds the working temperature of the lid, you'll have to make your hole larger.

    Figure out best placement of the CHE to get ideal temperatures.
    This part isn't a science. I know from experience that lining my dome up with the short side of the tub isn't going to work, since the temperatures in my house drop below 74F in the winter, so I'm placing the dome diagonally to spread the heat out a little further. This may not work for you – fiddle with placement and maybe a rheostat until you find temperatures closer to what you're aiming for.

    After this part, please remember to turn off the CHE and let it cool for a few hours before proceeding.

    Next, we trace the outline of the dome onto the lid.



    I used white paint because my tub's lid is black. You might be able to get away with using a sharpie. I didn't want to risk it.

    Make sure that the plastic will not be touching the dome, and add additional room if the dome's surface temperatures are higher than the working temperature of the tub you're using.

    Cut/carve hole into the lid of the tub.
    I'm using tin snips to cut the hole into the lid. I'm also drilling small holes around the edges of the hole; these holes will be used to attach the mesh with zip-ties.


    After this, I filed down the edges so that my snake won't rub itself on anything sharp. I also did this for the smaller holes, since there was some plastic still left from the drill.

    Another option is the soldering iron, though I do warn you that there will be fumes. Do not do this in a room housing reptiles – it's preferable to do this outside if you can. That way you lower the risk of breathing in toxic fumes. If you do this step inside, take frequent breaks and maybe crack a window to let the fumes out. You may also want to use a surgical mask to help with the fumes. Fumes r bad. Be safe guys.

    Cut mesh to size.
    I'm using grill mesh pads, which are easy to cut with scissors. You might need a wire cutter or tin snips if you're using industrial grade wire mesh. Make sure the grade of mesh you choose is small enough that your snake can't squeeze through.

    In my case, a single piece of mesh wasn't big enough to span the length of the hole. That's kind of a problem. Luckily, these pads were a two-pack, so I used garden wire to 'stitch' the two pieces together




    Cut the mesh larger than the hole you made, so we can zip-tie it down more easily.


    Attach mesh to lid.
    Use the zip-ties to attach the mesh to the lid. Start on opposite ends so it pulls the mesh tight and it fits how you want it to. Then start adding more zip-ties between so that the snake can't escape. I tested the spaces between with my finger.



    I then cut the excess plastic off the zip-ties.


    Attach dome to mesh.
    Make sure both your bulbs are plugged into the lamp, because after we do this, the lamp will be difficult to remove.

    Place the dome on the mesh and thread gardening wire through the air holes near the socket, then loop them through the mesh and back out again, so the pokey bits are outside of the cage. Tie the ends together.


    Repeat this for the opposite side of the dome. I only do it twice because it's very secure this way, and it'll be easier to get two off verses four when I have to replace the CHE or UVB bulb, or clean the domes of dust. Doing it for all four sides is fine, you'll just have more work getting the domes off for maintenance.


    Congratulations, you have successfully modified a tub lid to accommodate a CHE/light!

    Drill air holes into tub.
    Drill your air holes about halfway to ¾ down the side furthest from the lamp. Start with 6. Add more later if your humidity is between 85-100%.

    I didn't do this, and now I've had to stick unfired pieces of sculpey in a bunch of my air holes. Moderation is the key.


    Making your tub escape-proof.
    Since I already have a drill handy, I'm going to use the dog leash snap hooks to secure the lid to the tub. An easy way to do this without additional modification is to use at least two luggage straps on the tub.

    I placed the lid on the tub and closed the latches, then drilled through the lip of the lid and the lip of the tub to give me two holes that line up, like this:



    Stick the snap hooks on and see if there's significant give to the lid. If not, you're good to go. If so, you will need to add more snap hooks around the edge of the lid.




    Add in decorations, substrate, water bowl, hides, and thermometers/hydrometers.
    Add your substrate of choice, your hides, water bowl(s), decoration items, and thermometers/hydrometers. At minimum there should be one thermostat/hydrometer on the cool side and one on the hot side.

    ThermoSTAT probe placement.
    With a CHE in place, having the thermostat probe outside of the tub wouldn't work. In this case, you can simply thread the probe through a hole in the tub (preferably on the side, and just big enough to fit the probe) and let it hang down a little. If you would like to secure it, using hot glue is a good choice. It's easy to remove if there's been a mistake, and it won't harm the probe or the snake.


    Turning on the CHE.
    Plug your lamp into a thermostat. Plug the thermostat into a surge protector. Plug the surge protector into the wall.

    I set the temperature to 83.5 on the thermostat, but your millage may vary. Remember that this is measuring the air temperatures by the probe and not the temperature of the hot spot beneath the CHE. You may need to lower the temperature on the thermostat to get a hot spot between 88-92F, since your air temperatures will always be lower than your surface temperatures.

    The surface temperatures should always be taken with a temperature gun.


    We're not looking to warm up the inside of a hide to the maximum temperatures, as that would make the overall air temperatures way too hot for your snake. Instead, we're creating a general area that is the appropriate air temperature for your snake (83-86F) with a hot spot surface temperature beneath the CHE of 88-92F. You can place flat rocks and branches at various heights beneath the CHE to achieve a basking spot.

    You may ask where the belly heat is – but that's what the basking spot is. Heat is absorbed by the material you place under the CHE, creating a spot of belly heat for the snake to lie on. In addition, they will be absorbing heat through their backs as well, as the CHE radiates heat down on them.

    Remember that the cool side at minimum should be 75F, and ideally between 78-82F.

    Back-up heat.
    What if your hot side temperatures are fine, and the cold side temperatures are a bit too cold? Mine are exactly like this. I've gotten a piece of foam and carved out a divot for the probe to fit, then attached a under tank heater face-up using aluminum tape. Mine's a Zoomed Ultratherm, though personally I wish I'd bought heat tape instead. Maybe a later purchase.

    So, even with my CHE running and the hot side at optimal temperatures, my cold side is still too cold in the wintertime. If I don't have a secondary heat source, the air temperature on the cold side can drop down to 72F – not ideal. That's where this UTH setup comes into play.

    Normally, a UTH doesn't increase the ambient air temperatures in an enclosure. But, normally, you wouldn't also be using a CHE in conjunction with a plastic tub. The CHE is already raising the air temperatures on the other side, and we're not applying the UTH to the bottom of the tub, but to the side. The heat is also not obstructed by an inch or so layer of substrate.

    Doing this made it so my cold side temperatures rose from 72F to between 75-80F depending on the time of day. Nice.

    Installing the light.
    Plug light lamp into an outlet timer. Set the timer to be on for 12 hours, off for 12 hours. Set the time. Plug timer into surge protector.

    A Side Note on Maintaining Humidity
    I've recently gotten to the point where I'll just dump the water left from her water bowl all over the hot side when doing water changes, so long as she hasn't made a mess in it. The water tends to briefly collect on the fake plants before evaporating. I will also turn over the substrate every week or so if the ambient humidity gets too low. The top layer is always dry, but the bottom layer is usually still very wet.

    Of course, if my snake decides to poop in the water bowl, I'm not dumping that all over her enclosure. (She never does this. She hates soaking lol.)

    I'd recommend taking the water bowls out of the tub before turning over the substrate – it will get in your water bowl. You will have to replace the water. It is never not annoying.

    I never have to worry about the cold side – it usually stays between 70-80%.

    Apply snake.





    That's it! We're done! At last! 9 pages of madness in Word, who knew I had it in me.
    0.1 Red Axanthic P. regius | Mazikeen
    0.1
    E. climacophora | Lan Fan
    0.1
    C. paulsoni | Inej


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  3. #2
    Registered User Rodop's Avatar
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    I absolutely love this post! Very informative! I plan on using this for my current ball python (who is just in a 20 gallon glass tank for right now). If it weren't for the fact that nobody is really selling any iris Christmas tree tubs - mostly because nobody has any in stock- I would have just gone straight to that, thus I have to wait another... 5-6 months. ;_;

    Anyways, I went looking for the tub that you have posted here and wouldn't you know it, my mom happened to have two of the exact ones you have... except they were out in the chicken barn. In great shape though!
    One was holding empty chicken feed bags while the other had hay in it: I took the first one, but boy did it need a cleaning! There was even a dead mouse in it! And spiders. I still have to sanitize both the lid and tub: would you recommend a bleach solution and if so, what percentage?
    Also, there are scratch marks on the outside bottom of the tub (like the tub was dragged across pavement or rocks for a little bit). I also checked the inside of the tub for scratches: I didn't see or feel any, but I understand that there might be some. Will I have to clean the entire tub more often or what are your thoughts?

    How deep did you make the substrate? 3 inches, or more? Any other tips/advice?

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    Starscream (06-23-2018)

  5. #3
    BPnet Veteran Starscream's Avatar
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    Re: Tall Tub CHE+Light Build (with pictures)

    Quote Originally Posted by Rodop View Post
    I absolutely love this post! Very informative! I plan on using this for my current ball python (who is just in a 20 gallon glass tank for right now). If it weren't for the fact that nobody is really selling any iris Christmas tree tubs - mostly because nobody has any in stock- I would have just gone straight to that, thus I have to wait another... 5-6 months. ;_;

    Anyways, I went looking for the tub that you have posted here and wouldn't you know it, my mom happened to have two of the exact ones you have... except they were out in the chicken barn. In great shape though!
    One was holding empty chicken feed bags while the other had hay in it: I took the first one, but boy did it need a cleaning! There was even a dead mouse in it! And spiders. I still have to sanitize both the lid and tub: would you recommend a bleach solution and if so, what percentage?
    Also, there are scratch marks on the outside bottom of the tub (like the tub was dragged across pavement or rocks for a little bit). I also checked the inside of the tub for scratches: I didn't see or feel any, but I understand that there might be some. Will I have to clean the entire tub more often or what are your thoughts?

    How deep did you make the substrate? 3 inches, or more? Any other tips/advice?
    How funny, I've since upgraded my girl to a Christmas tub. It's not as tall as the tub in this setup, so it feels a bit limited, but I enjoy seeing her able to stretch out completely.

    As for cleaning, you probably want to wash it with Dawn soap and water first, then use an F10 solution to sanitize it. I don't use bleach so I can't comment on it either way.

    The scratches should be fine. If there are any cracks, that would be an issue. And for substrate depth, 3-6 inches is a good amount. With wood chip substrates like coco chip you can change them out less (around 1-3 months depending on what you're comfortable with) so long as you're thorough when spot-cleaning.
    0.1 Red Axanthic P. regius | Mazikeen
    0.1
    E. climacophora | Lan Fan
    0.1
    C. paulsoni | Inej


  6. #4
    BPnet Veteran Ax01's Avatar
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    cool build Star! very nice write up!



    also did u make that hide? i can see your fingerprints!
    RIP Mamba
    ----------------

    Wicked ones now on IG & FB!6292

  7. #5
    BPnet Veteran Starscream's Avatar
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    Re: Tall Tub CHE+Light Build (with pictures)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ax01 View Post
    cool build Star! very nice write up!



    also did u make that hide? i can see your fingerprints!
    Yep lol. I made a few out of sculpy before she got too big -- anymore I'm considering using cork flats. She likes to dig out the space beneath her hides to 'fit' her better anyways.
    0.1 Red Axanthic P. regius | Mazikeen
    0.1
    E. climacophora | Lan Fan
    0.1
    C. paulsoni | Inej


  8. #6
    Registered User Michelle-07's Avatar
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    Re: Tall Tub CHE+Light Build (with pictures)

    I don't know if you still check this thread - but I want to thank you sooo much! You helped me out a lot with setting up my first enclosure... <3

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    Starscream (11-06-2018)

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