Agressive big boa in a bad condition

[Pitonica]

Hi,
I have few queries regarding this boa that just came in.

We were told that its a male, few years old and very agressive so not jet handeled from our side and previous owner didn't handle him much.
He has his peace now and will leave him for a week or two and just feed him.

Im wondering what morph that is?

Also, if anyone is sure what is wrong with his skin and tail?
Looks to me that he hadn't shed properly for a longer time and shed stayed on the tip, that went on and the tip of tail just died.. Could that be?
I know in the future, his shed has to be checked on the tip of a tail, with higher humidity with a plastic pool to soak in.
The skin on the belly looks loose and wrinkles a lot, is that cause of bad humidity condition's in previous home, dehydration, or he is so skinny?
I want to know this things and learn more so I can help him and other snakes in the future.

Also, if anyone knows good text to read or some tips of how to tame a big aggressive boa with low chances of getting real hurt, please let me know.
I have been taming lizards and ball pythons but am new with boas, specially this big and would appreciate if someone could jump in with some smart words


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[bcr229]

Common boa imperator, not a morph. Looks like he's in shed so keep his humidity high, maybe even a bowl big enough he can soak in if the enclosure will support it. It looks like you're correct that he lost the tip of his tail at some point, I'm guessing his prior owner didn't keep him humid enough and he ended up with stuck shed that eventually cut off the circulation.

Is that heat tape actually in the tank or is it just showing through the glass?

I would give him a few weeks of correct care and then re-evaluate his personality, he may just mellow out once he's fed and more comfortable. Also boas are usually defensive not aggressive.

[KevinK]

Judging by the look of his saddles he appears to be a BCI of some sorts, it doesn't appear that he's a morph of any kind. His shortened tail could be the result of several things, but yes REALLY poor sheds can result in shortened tails. Live feeder rats also have the tendency to target boa tails if left in the same enclosure for an extended period of time. I'm not saying that's what happened, but I've seen it before on these forums.

As for the skin, it appears like he's close to shed in the pictures you just took as he's going opaque. What I like to do before my boas go into shed is to just place them in a lukewarm shallow bathtub and just let them sit for 20-30 minutes. It helps with the shed process as boas are not known to soak by themselves typically. Be aware however, this also usually causes them to defecate.

It's hard to say what you're talking about concerning his belly skin, but I'll tell you that judging by his appearance, he appears to be much older than just a few years. He doesn't appear to be skinny or underfed by the photos you provided. Wait for him to shed, then post a few more pictures of him. I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary about his appearance as far as his skin is concerned however.

As for handling an agressive boa....it completely depends on the individual animal. Many boas are prone to "defensive" strikes only, meaning that if you can find a way to pick him up he SHOULD settle down, but you also need to be very aware of his head location at all times. They are an animal that REALLY like their enclosure and sometimes they do not like people messing with their habitat. Almost every one of them calms down once you get them out of the cage however. Just be careful.

Boa care is rather easy to remember however (these are the temps I maintain my animals at)

80 F cool side
90 F warm side
50% humidity.....ideally bumped up to 60% around shed time.

Edit: This is why BCR is a mod, gets here fast and summarizes everything I just said in a hell of a lot shorter terms lol.

[Pitonica]

Common boa imperator, not a morph. Looks like he's in shed so keep his humidity high, maybe even a bowl big enough he can soak in if the enclosure will support it. It looks like you're correct that he lost the tip of his tail at some point, I'm guessing his prior owner didn't keep him humid enough and he ended up with stuck shed that eventually cut off the circulation.

Is that heat tape actually in the tank or is it just showing through the glass?

I would give him a few weeks of correct care and then re-evaluate his personality, he may just mellow out once he's fed and more comfortable. Also boas are usually defensive not aggressive.

There is no sticky tape in the enclosure of course, its from the outside
He has a pool with water, still haven't seen him drink.
Correctly said - he is defensive yes. Hope he calms down, that tail may also be bothering him? in close it looks like a end of sausage

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[Pitonica]

Judging by the look of his saddles he appears to be a BCI of some sorts, it doesn't appear that he's a morph of any kind. His shortened tail could be the result of several things, but yes REALLY poor sheds can result in shortened tails. Live feeder rats also have the tendency to target boa tails if left in the same enclosure for an extended period of time. I'm not saying that's what happened, but I've seen it before on these forums.

As for the skin, it appears like he's close to shed in the pictures you just took as he's going opaque. What I like to do before my boas go into shed is to just place them in a lukewarm shallow bathtub and just let them sit for 20-30 minutes. It helps with the shed process as boas are not known to soak by themselves typically. Be aware however, this also usually causes them to defecate.

It's hard to say what you're talking about concerning his belly skin, but I'll tell you that judging by his appearance, he appears to be much older than just a few years. He doesn't appear to be skinny or underfed by the photos you provided. Wait for him to shed, then post a few more pictures of him. I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary about his appearance as far as his skin is concerned however.

As for handling an agressive boa....it completely depends on the individual animal. Many boas are prone to "defensive" strikes only, meaning that if you can find a way to pick him up he SHOULD settle down, but you also need to be very aware of his head location at all times. They are an animal that REALLY like their enclosures and sometimes do not like people messing with their habitat. Almost every one of them calms down once you get them out of the cage however. Just be careful.

Boa care is rather easy to remember however (these are the temps I maintain my animals at)

80 F cool side
90 F warm side
50% humidity.....ideally bumped up to 60% around shed time.

Edit: This is why BCR is a mod, gets here fast and summarizes everything I just said in a hell of a lot shorter terms lol.

Thats how I keep the temps, just a bit higher humidity.
I have a bad camera on phone, his eyes are totally clear and his skin, not like on photo, so not sure about shed but im keeping​ an eye on him.
Why you think he is much older, how can you tell?
No worries about long post, I like reading more info.

I will not touch him for two weeks and than will try to handle him, to get him out on the floor with a hook and pray he doesn't strike or wrap around me, he looks so strong and big and Im like barely 60kg. Will ask some male assistance even dough im the brave one here.. and I admit im bit paranoid that he will squeeze me...nobody plans to hold him at all so I will have to cause im too curious to wait and want to clean him without freakin out

Tnx Tinyballs

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[artgecko]

I am not an expert, but I'd definitely invest in a snake hook to help with taming him... If you want to attempt handling, and he does appear defensively bitey, then long gauntleted welding gloves may come in handy, as well as a plastic face shield...

I hook train all of my boas and the snake will learn to associate being stroked with the hook with you messing with their enclosure, cleaning, and / or handling vs. feeding time. I am able to take my 6' boa out of "food mode" by stroking him with the hook a few times...then he is safe to handle once he understands what is going on. You may want to do this every time you go in his cage (to change water, clean, etc.). Stroke him with the hook first and then use it as a barrier between where his head is and your hands. I would do this for a few weeks to get him used to the idea of what the hook is and you doing things in his cage, then progress to attempted handling (baby steps as it were). Something like a golf club could also serve this purpose if you have one on hand. Do not use the hook when feeding to avoid it being associated with food.

[Pitonica]

I am not an expert, but I'd definitely invest in a snake hook to help with taming him... If you want to attempt handling, and he does appear defensively bitey, then long gauntleted welding gloves may come in handy, as well as a plastic face shield...

I hook train all of my boas and the snake will learn to associate being stroked with the hook with you messing with their enclosure, cleaning, and / or handling vs. feeding time. I am able to take my 6' boa out of "food mode" by stroking him with the hook a few times...then he is safe to handle once he understands what is going on. You may want to do this every time you go in his cage (to change water, clean, etc.). Stroke him with the hook first and then use it as a barrier between where his head is and your hands. I would do this for a few weeks to get him used to the idea of what the hook is and you doing things in his cage, then progress to attempted handling (baby steps as it were). Something like a golf club could also serve this purpose if you have one on hand. Do not use the hook when feeding to avoid it being associated with food.

Thankfully I do have two strong hooks for bigger snakes and I've listened to your advice, I stroked him with a hook today, he is in his pool and started vibrating with his body and flicking his tongue curious. No defensive behaviour so far. Slowly and patiently, I hope he will be much calmer so in few weeks I can post a photo with me holding him without bleeding from his bites


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[artgecko]

Thankfully I do have two strong hooks for bigger snakes and I've listened to your advice, I stroked him with a hook today, he is in his pool and started vibrating with his body and flicking his tongue curious. No defensive behaviour so far. Slowly and patiently, I hope he will be much calmer so in few weeks I can post a photo with me holding him without bleeding from his bites


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Sounds like a plan. I'm glad he reacted well so far. Good luck with him!

[KevinK]

Why you think he is much older, how can you tell?

We can be pretty certain that he is a BCI and for a BCI his overall coloring is very dark (which comes with age) and the shape of his head. The muscles on the side of his head are very well defined and large....which only happens in older boas. Additionally, he seems to have a very large skeletal structure which also comes with age in older boas.

No way to tell exactly how old he is but if I were to take I complete guess I would say he's no less than 10 years old judging by your photos.

[Sauzo]

Seems no one mentioned it but I hope you have that heat tape on a t-stat. Set it to around 88-90F and I would at least offer the snake a hide to feel comfortable in. Even my 6'+ girl uses a hide sometimes when shedding or when she just wants privacy. Feeling secure will go a long ways with a boa as all of mine are complete loungers except my BCL who are just extra shy by nature and take longer to settle in than BCIs. But even now he is pretty laid back for the most part.

Give him a hide like I said and let him shed and relax and he will most likely come around. You can snake hook train if you want but I haven't use a hook for any of my boas ever and then one time I tried a hook on my retic as a baby, he got pissed and opened his mouth and hissed at it. Now I just slide a door open and in about 30 secs, he realizes no food and is curious to hang out with me lol.