New Owner Worries

[YoJimbo]

Thanks everyone for the advice, last night he was all over the place having a good old explore and today he's not hiding inside the cool shelter but actually curled up with his head just outside.

So I have a few other queries I'd like to ask you BP veterans:


1) During the set up of the viv i placed a single row LED strip that set to blue and not very bright (Purely for us to see in). Is LED lighting OK or does this irritate the snakes? I don't have it on often at the minute as I'm unsure of it.


2) Taking temperature readings.. currently i am using a thermo gun for surface readings (as i have been for my bearded dragon for years) or should i be looking at air temps? given that i'm using a ceramic for heat?



As always the info seems to be 50/50 so I am just curious what the consensus is here as I want to try and get everything perfect for both the snake and my son.


Thanks again for your time

[Craiga 01453]

1) The light, if just used occasionally will be perfectly fine for your BP. BPs don't need a light cycle, but you mentioned that the light is purely for your viewing. I would leave it off when you aren't using it for viewing, but otherwise you're fine with that light.

2) You want to get the actual surface temp (the glass below the substrate) for your hotspot using your thermo gun.
You also want to get the ambient (air temps) temps using a regular thermometer. This is where the temp gradient comes into play creating a cool
and a warm side.

[Zincubus]

1) The light, if just used occasionally will be perfectly fine for your BP. BPs don't need a light cycle, but you mentioned that the light is purely for your viewing. I would leave it off when you aren't using it for viewing, but otherwise you're fine with that light.

2) You want to get the actual surface temp (the glass below the substrate) for your hotspot using your thermo gun.
You also want to get the ambient (air temps) temps using a regular thermometer. This is where the temp gradient comes into play creating a cool
and a warm side.

Perfect response IMHO

[YoJimbo]

Well Sunday came and went .

Once again tried to feed him at 23:30 with a warmed rat pup (soaked in near hot water for around 2 mins) rat pup showed as 38 degrees with thermo gun (100F i think).


And once again he looked at it then turned his head and just ignored it, no matter how i wiggled it near his head, tried leaving it at the entrance of his plant hiding area but he didn't have it.


So I'm back at the start looking if there is other factors..

[Craiga 01453]

Don't sweat it yet. Sometimes, even when husbandry is spot on, it still takes time.

It could also be the prey, the preparation of the prey, etc... Some BPs are finicky, so we need to try different feeding techniques and do what works for that specific animal once we have it figured out. For example, My BP, Tyson, will only eat if I defrost straight from the freezer and feed him immediately. If I thaw overnight, or thaw any other way, he won't eat. So I do what works for him, and he eats regularly...for now...

[Zincubus]

Well Sunday came and went .

Once again tried to feed him at 23:30 with a warmed rat pup (soaked in near hot water for around 2 mins) rat pup showed as 38 degrees with thermo gun (100F i think).


And once again he looked at it then turned his head and just ignored it, no matter how i wiggled it near his head, tried leaving it at the entrance of his plant hiding area but he didn't have it.


So I'm back at the start looking if there is other factors..

Try to let it defrost naturally in the snake room , or on a heat mat or something. ... anyway rather than soaking in water .

I have a couple of Albino royals who simply won't take mice warmed in water - I presumed I was washing the smell away . It's the aroma they smell / taste along with the 'heat' that presumably triggers the strike ....


Those two I mentioned will eat every time as long as I offer every ten to fourteen days - they aren't interested in eating weekly .

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[hollowlaughter]

Some snakes are just weird about taking their feeds, I've heard/seen all of these:

• Snake only takes it when heated past 100F.
• Snake only takes it when scented, permanently.
• Snake only takes it when prey is left overnight.
• Snake only takes it when offered head first.
• Snake only takes it when offered legs/tail first.
• Snake only takes it after its been zombie walked around.
• Snake only takes it if in its hide.
• Snake only takes it when out of hide.
• Snake only takes it if tapped against its snout.
• Snake only takes it if you make it "fight" after strike.
• Snake only eats girl rodents.
• Snake only eats boy rodents.
• Snake only eats albino rodents.
• Snake only eats colored rodents.
• Snake only eats gerbils, soft-furs (prey imprinted).

BPs are... finicky, suffice to say. Makes them hard first snakes.

Mine personally often takes a while to strike (5+ minutes) and only perks up if I let it thaw in the room with him then heat it up with a blow dryer long enough for him to wake up. Head has to be heated much higher than the body. No moving it. Just tap it against his snout so he knows it's time to eat (I guess) then wait for him to line it up. He's a little... Uh. Special. No wonder the breeder said he likes to skip weeks since feeding day is a little bit of a ritual for him. But I count my blessings that he isn't outright scared of his food like some BPs will be.

Essentially, you might have to try a lot of stuff to see what works for yours. They're each individuals, no-one's method is really going to work for all snakes, but some tend to work better than others (like braining prey).

If he responds to the food and shows interest (following it, tongue flicking, alert) you have a hungry snake and just need to figure out what it takes to make the little guy realize its food time and chug it down for you.

Gets easier after that, once you and the snake are on the same page.

[hollowlaughter]

Oh yeah, random addition past edit timeline:

Call the shop where you got them. Ask to speak to whoever normally feeds the snakes. Say your BPs not eating, you have the husbandry right, could you please go through (in detail) how you feed them at the shop? Ask for minute details. Then mimic how the shop did it.

[Sunnieskys]

Also ask for some used mouse or rat bedding. throw the rat in it to defrost. Worked for me.

[Zincubus]

Some snakes are just weird about taking their feeds, I've heard/seen all of these:

• Snake only takes it when heated past 100F.
• Snake only takes it when scented, permanently.
• Snake only takes it when prey is left overnight.
• Snake only takes it when offered head first.
• Snake only takes it when offered legs/tail first.
• Snake only takes it after its been zombie walked around.
• Snake only takes it if in its hide.
• Snake only takes it when out of hide.
• Snake only takes it if tapped against its snout.
• Snake only takes it if you make it "fight" after strike.
• Snake only eats girl rodents.
• Snake only eats boy rodents.
• Snake only eats albino rodents.
• Snake only eats colored rodents.
• Snake only eats gerbils, soft-furs (prey imprinted).

BPs are... finicky, suffice to say. Makes them hard first snakes.

Mine personally often takes a while to strike (5+ minutes) and only perks up if I let it thaw in the room with him then heat it up with a blow dryer long enough for him to wake up. Head has to be heated much higher than the body. No moving it. Just tap it against his snout so he knows it's time to eat (I guess) then wait for him to line it up. He's a little... Uh. Special. No wonder the breeder said he likes to skip weeks since feeding day is a little bit of a ritual for him. But I count my blessings that he isn't outright scared of his food like some BPs will be.

Essentially, you might have to try a lot of stuff to see what works for yours. They're each individuals, no-one's method is really going to work for all snakes, but some tend to work better than others (like braining prey).

If he responds to the food and shows interest (following it, tongue flicking, alert) you have a hungry snake and just need to figure out what it takes to make the little guy realize its food time and chug it down for you.

Gets easier after that, once you and the snake are on the same page.

Maybe the one you mentioned would be better on a longer schedule like my pair of albinos - every 10 to 14 days ??


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