My Bredli spends alot of time in hides.

[rock]

Is he getting ready to shed? All of my snakes become antisocial when they are starting to shed. It's the easiest way i can tell they are getting ready to shed as i have 3 white snakes.

After seeing him more clearly last night it is completely possible. He also hid for several days in a row the last time prior to his shed.

[rock]

I'd have to go back and open up my copy of THE COMPLETE CARPET PYTHON, but from what I remember speaking to Nick Mutton, he said Bredli tend to find old tree hollows and spend there time in them.

My coastal usually sits on top of her hide on the warm side during the day. When in shed of early digestion, she will go into her hide for a few days.

In the evening until morning she is usually climbing on her perches.

When you have the time and the funds, I'm sure your Bredli will display better for you in a larger plastic cage. Right now, I think you are doing the right thing and shouldn't worry.

Bredli are from the really hot, dry part of OZ, so I'm not surprised that during the day, there would be minimal activity in the open.

Thank you, Gio, that sounds correct. My thinking has been to get the permanent enclosure at the end of the year after he has grown. A 4x2x? seems too large at this point. I doubt he is much over 3 feet if he is even there yet. I will wait until next week to get his weight.

The good news is, last night he was out at sundown and seemed totally comfortable in the new enclosure and spent at least an hour stretched out and on a wooden perch.

[Prognathodon]

My girl has a 4x2x2 with a basking shelf and a RHP. She spends most of her time on the shelf, but goes through phases when she hides. And like others, she hides while in shed.

She's always had a RHP, and always spent a lot of time out of hides, but when she was smaller she had an artificial tree she spent a lot of time in - combination perching and hiding space.


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[dboeren]

With a RHP you're basically saying "if you want to be warm, you have to come out". That probably encourage him to come out more, but he may also be more stressed if he didn't want to come out.

I'm currently offering both and under tank heater and a heat lamp that gives a basking site of about 90 degrees on a branch at the top of the cage. This way the snake can pick what it wants. If I wanted to encourage her to come out more often during the day what I'd probably do is GRADUALLY lower the thermostat on the under tank heater but not shut it off entirely. See what happens, but always give at least some heat so that if she really doesn't want to come out she's not forced into it.

The light isn't on a thermostat, it's just a low watt normal bulb with the temp controlled by the elevation and there's a thermometer probe taped to the branch so I can monitor it that way but of course the light doesn't move so it's pretty constant.

[rock]

My girl has a 4x2x2 with a basking shelf and a RHP. She spends most of her time on the shelf, but goes through phases when she hides. And like others, she hides while in shed.

She's always had a RHP, and always spent a lot of time out of hides, but when she was smaller she had an artificial tree she spent a lot of time in - combination perching and hiding space.


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Thank you. A shelf and an RHP are definitely on my shopping list. My Bredli was over a year with the breeder in a tub. That has likely affected his behavior and need for privacy.

[rock]

With a RHP you're basically saying "if you want to be warm, you have to come out". That probably encourage him to come out more, but he may also be more stressed if he didn't want to come out.

I'm currently offering both and under tank heater and a heat lamp that gives a basking site of about 90 degrees on a branch at the top of the cage. This way the snake can pick what it wants. If I wanted to encourage her to come out more often during the day what I'd probably do is GRADUALLY lower the thermostat on the under tank heater but not shut it off entirely. See what happens, but always give at least some heat so that if she really doesn't want to come out she's not forced into it.

The light isn't on a thermostat, it's just a low watt normal bulb with the temp controlled by the elevation and there's a thermometer probe taped to the branch so I can monitor it that way but of course the light doesn't move so it's pretty constant.

Good stuff, I like your set up. I may need to order my big enclosure and accessories sooner than later.

[Gio]

4 x 2 x 2 is great for almost all carpets.

Ed Lilley, of Constrictors NW (Pro-Line Cages) who is also a carpet breeder uses his caging obviously and uses RHPs exclusively.
Nick Mutton uses the same caging and the same heating, at least when I spoke to him he did.

RHPs will create an ambient temp in the cage, and a hot spot. With perches at certain levels the will also be climate zones.

The snake can decide where to regulate. When you have a cool spot, the hot spots can be 89 to 100 degrees depending on where the snake sets up. A branch right under, and close to the panel will be the warmest spot. The snake won't burn as there is no contact with the heat source.

My girl will perch under the panel on a branch for heat. She will sit on her hide below the panel as well but the perches block some of the direct heat. She is still on the warm side, but not up as high or in as warm of a zone.

This photo doesn't do justice to the height of the cage. 24" tall is a nice sized cage.


When she want to be cool, she hot the floor, or goes into her hide.

A good thermostat with a night drop is my preference. I drop the night temps for all of the snakes here so they are never in an eternally hot or cool climate.

I'd say now that your snake is acclimated, you could move up in cage size, or at least buy the cage and slowly set it up.

The rock background I have in the cage is from OZ. An actual mold of rocks, and maybe even from Alice Springs which is the home range of the Bredli.

This gives you an idea of what a cage 48" x 24" x 24" cage looks like.



I love a good display!!



Your snake will surprise you when given options.

Good luck and have fun!

[rock]

4 x 2 x 2 is great for almost all carpets.

Ed Lilley, of Constrictors NW (Pro-Line Cages) who is also a carpet breeder uses his caging obviously and uses RHPs exclusively.
Nick Mutton uses the same caging and the same heating, at least when I spoke to him he did.

RHPs will create an ambient temp in the cage, and a hot spot. With perches at certain levels the will also be climate zones.

The snake can decide where to regulate. When you have a cool spot, the hot spots can be 89 to 100 degrees depending on where the snake sets up. A branch right under, and close to the panel will be the warmest spot. The snake won't burn as there is no contact with the heat source.

My girl will perch under the panel on a branch for heat. She will sit on her hide below the panel as well but the perches block some of the direct heat. She is still on the warm side, but not up as high or in as warm of a zone.

This photo doesn't do justice to the height of the cage. 24" tall is a nice sized cage.


When she want to be cool, she hot the floor, or goes into her hide.

A good thermostat with a night drop is my preference. I drop the night temps for all of the snakes here so they are never in an eternally hot or cool climate.

I'd say now that your snake is acclimated, you could move up in cage size, or at least buy the cage and slowly set it up.

The rock background I have in the cage is from OZ. An actual mold of rocks, and maybe even from Alice Springs which is the home range of the Bredli.

This gives you an idea of what a cage 48" x 24" x 24" cage looks like.



I love a good display!!



Your snake will surprise you when given options.

Good luck and have fun!

Big thanks, Gio, great info. You also have the best pics.

Yes, Nick originally recommended Ed to me and I spoke with him on the phone. Good guy, I definitely want his HDPE cages. I will also get them for my BPs. Likely 48x23x14 so I can stack them. Just have to figure out if I will run one large Herpstat or two separate ones.

[Gio]

Big thanks, Gio, great info. You also have the best pics.

Yes, Nick originally recommended Ed to me and I spoke with him on the phone. Good guy, I definitely want his HDPE cages. I will also get them for my BPs. Likely 48x23x14 so I can stack them. Just have to figure out if I will run one large Herpstat or two separate ones.

I have a Herpstat II for the boa and retic cages and a Herpstat I for the carpet. The royal has a VE 300 plus a UTH. That cage is a temp cage and she'll get the retic cage and the retic is getting a 6' x 30" x 24".

You will do really well with the HDPE plastic. I love the stuff. All cages have strengths and weaknesses but I have no complaints with my cages.

I'm looking forward to seeing what your final setup looks like!

[rock]

I have a Herpstat II for the boa and retic cages and a Herpstat I for the carpet. The royal has a VE 300 plus a UTH. That cage is a temp cage and she'll get the retic cage and the retic is getting a 6' x 30" x 24".

You will do really well with the HDPE plastic. I love the stuff. All cages have strengths and weaknesses but I have no complaints with my cages.

I'm looking forward to seeing what your final setup looks like!

Thanks, I'm looking forward to it also! Ed has backgrounds he can insert. Wondering if I should get one or a shelf? I'd really like to have a red Alice Springs cliff look inside.

Herpstat and VE seem to be the go to T-stats so I will just have to choose and I think the Pro Products/Pro Heat RHP is the one I decided on. Not sure how to do a UV bulb in Ed's cages so I will have to ask.

So, I will have two 48x23x14 cages for the BPs and the 48x23x23 for the Bredli likely stacked on top. Good looking wall! I just wish there were a few more Carpets or Boas to add in.